KECC507GBT3 KitchenAid Cooktop - Instructions

turned off power
removed ceran top from cabinet
removed element
installed new element
replaced top
powered up and was done

Bought new element and installed. Very simple. Used phillips
screw driver.

Unplug range and remove back panel (4 screws) unplug top burner plugs (2). Open oven door and remove 2 screws from under front of top. Pull top out and up to unhook from back. Remove top and lay cardboard on top of range. Flip over the ranges glass top unit and lay on cardboard. Remove screws from steel bottom and remove from top. Flip over steel bottom with burners attached. Remove attaching clips for burner and unscrew them from the burner then reinstall in new burner in the same place as old burner. Lay new burner on top of old burner and remove one wire at a time, transfering it to the matching plug on the new burner. When wiring is done remove old burner and attach 2 clips to steel backing plate. Vacuum off the glass top and reinstall the steel bottom to the glass top. Flip over the top, remove cardboard and slide top into back of range top and lower into place. Attach 2 screws under front. Reattach the tops plugs at the rear and reattach the back panel. Plug in range and slide back into place. Test units and all other burners. Done...

Well, I found the two screws that held the cook top in place and backed them out. Pulled the cook top out of the counter and took out a bazillion little sheet metal screws that held the cover in place. The controllers were grouped in a cluster of four, and the "Front Left" was easy to spot. I pulled the wires off one-by-one and noted the marking on the old controller, and noted the markings on the new controller, especially the translator table that came with the new controller - the old and new controllers are a bit different. Then screwed the new controller in and tested the cook top - worked fine. Then I changed the hard wiring to the power source (a bad job originally) to a three prong plug and socket arrangement. Put it all back together and was back in business - a "piece of cake" repair. A week later "somebody" dropped "something" onto the corner of the glass and chipped out a little chunk of glass. Oh well, fun to fix anyway!

Had to remove drawer under range to get id number with flashlight. Ordered the part from a very helpful employee and it arrived in timely fashion . I placed the knob on the rod on the stove top and Voila! Excellent service. Thanks.

Easy repair with Phillips screw driver and needle nose pliers. 1. Turn off Breakers or unplug range, Open oven door and remove the two screws holding the glass top to the oven frame. 2. Slide glass top forward and remove the two electrical connectors at the rear of the glass top, one on each side. 3. Remove the Phillips screw holding the ground wire from the rear top flange of the glass top. 4. Glass top can now be removed and placed glass side down on a padded flat table top. 5. Take a few pictures of the wiring and brackets for reassembly reference. 6. Remove the 4 wires from the defective heating element with needle nose pliers (note locations for reassembly to the new element) 7. Remove the Phillips screw on the rear side of the bracket holding the defective element. Carefully lift off the bracket. 8. Heating element can now be removed. 9. Remove the locating flanges from the defective element and install on the new element in the same locations. Clean glass if necessary and place new element on glass. 10. Carefully locate the flange tangs into the same holes on the bracket, reference photos or other side for locations. Ensure small element bracket was replaced in mounting slot of large bracket and reattach bracket screw. 11. Replace wires to same locations, remove and lightly pinch connectors if they appear loose, then reassemble. 12. Replace glass top on range, reconnect the two electrical connectors and ground wire, slide forward and replace the two mounting screws. 13. Restore power and check new element for function. Extension wires which came with the new element were not needed in this application. Total repair time about 20 min.

I removed the rangetop from the counter, Then I removed the knobs and about 12 screws and removed the glass top. I then removed the panel with the controls. I marked down the wire and terminal locations and removed the defective switch . I installed the new switch and connected the wires using the supplied wiring instructions.
I was glad to see that the new switch came with wire extenders and shrink tubing. I used one of them.
I replaced the glass top and installed it back into the counter ,Turned on the circuit breaker and everything worked perfect..

Got Model and SN, went on line and located correct part. Ordered part, arrived in 3 days. Started repair by turning off power to stovee top. Got putty knife and went around edge to loosen stove top to raise and het to underside to dismantle cover. Used battery drill to remove screws on cover. After accessing and removing top and bottom, removed 2 screws, changed one wire at a time and replaced on new switch, reassembled in reverse, turned on power and happily watched burner come to life with new switch.

Turned the breaker off. Removed the glass cook top and removed the screws holding the cook glass to the metal burner case. Followed easy instructions removing one wire at a time and placing on the new switch. Put the glass top back on and installed screws. Placed back in the hole and turned the breaker on. Works like new.

Called an authorized Kitchenaid service technician after ordering part. This was the second time this switch has required replacement so we saved time and money by ordering the part in advance from PartSelect. The trickiest part of the repair was separating the ceramic top from the rest of the cooktop. Had we attempted to do this ourselves, we would have given up at that point. I would only recommend this as a do-it-yourself repair if you are intimately familiar with how these cooktops are put together. It is fairly easy to break the ceramic top if you're not.

First I found a YouTube video for Maytag Range Repair – How to replace the Surface Element with Limiter - 6" - 1200W

The steps are very easy-
1. Open oven door and locate and remove 2 screws holding top cook surface. These are located near the top inside edge

2. Lift surface cook top and then remove 4 screws holding this section to the cook top. This may require 2 people but I was able to hold the cook top and loosen the 4 screws myself. Then put the cook top aside.

3. Take a photo of the element being replaced for wiring connections.

4. Removing the wiring and element holding clips was very easy. I used needle nose pliers for both

5. The clips have to be removed from the old element and put on the new one. Place them in the same locations

6. Make sure to reconnect the wires to the same pin locations. The replacement element I had the red (hot) wire pin 2b was in
A different location so I had to use the extension wire supplied with the new replacement element

7. Put everything back together in reverse order.

Easy peasy, took me about 40 minutes to complete the entire replacement and have it back in place working.

looked on internet on how to remove top. an easy fix after watching video

The new element wiring placements were totally different from the old element. Lucky for me the lettering printed on the terminals for each pole was the same as on the old one. It was just a matter of matching up each terminal pole lettering. The instructions that came with the new element were of no help at all. Youtube was my best helper.

Verified via ohmmeter that one of the two burners was open and not working. I also tested the switch and that appeared to be working okay. I then took out the old unit and compared it to the new one, and found that they upgraded the new unit. I followed the instructions to match the labeled parts and move the wire to the newer location of that. i.e the old one had 2B and 2A at the top and 1B and 1A at the bottom. The new one had 2B and 1B at the top and 2A and 1A at the bottom. It did come with wire extenders and insulated tubes on top of them, and extra to cover additional. After a couple of tries, I decided which wire I needed to use on which (small connectors to match small, and large to match large.) In a second try I decided to flip it over to have it face up instead of down. Overall, it worked out very well, and I was very pleased when I did the power up test and everything worked as desired.

Followed the instructions in the video provided by PartSelect, which was very accurate. They only problem I have encountered is that the wiring from the old element compared to the new element do not match up 100%. I had to call Whirlpool today and schedule a Tech to come out and see if they can resolve the problem. Right now, when the burner is turned on, both the inner and outer elements turn on.