KEBK101BBL00 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

USE 2 PEOPLE FOR SAFETY! SWITCH OFF OVEN POWER BREAKER!! Remove screws attaching oven to wall opening, slide out entire oven just far enough to get to 2 screws on either side of controls, remove those screws (may need stubby screwdriver), lift control front, opens forward, have 2nd person hold control panel cover while removing centered thermal fuse (plugs on both ends, may need needle-nose pliers to grip plug on fuse.) Remove old fuse, plug in new one. Close control panel, replace side screws, TEST POWER BEFORE pushing oven back into wall, replace wall-holding screws. Less than 30 minutes. EXTRA PERSON MAKES EASY!

Remove the oven door. Remove 3 self tappers on rear wall of oven to take off a round access panel. Pull out a pre-cut rectangle of insulation. Next I removed the 2 screws holding the sensor in place. Pulling the sensor out a bit told me I was "touching" the correct wires in the SMALL rectangular opening. The wires are not visable and 2 hands do not fit in this small opening.I looked at the NEW sensor to see the release on the sensor plug. Slip the angled needle nose into the opening and grasp the plug/release side. The plug pulled apart easily. The sensor wire pulls out with a little bit of twisting to fit it out the hole. The new plug pushes in and has to be worked down to where you can reach it. The same angled plier works to re-attach it. It takes longer to read this than to do the job. Best of luck, Al

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Thanks to PartSelect they suggested to try a new thermal fuse first. They also gave a brief description of how to install it. There advice was right on. Replaced the fuse in about 20 minutes from throwing the breaker to turning it back on.

Instructions: Turn off breaker. Remove oven door. Remove screws holding it to cabinet. Remove racks. Slide oven out about four inches. Remove four screws holding control panel. Remove thermal fuse. Replace thermal fuse and put it back together.

Thank you PartSelect. Thermal fuse cost me about $28.00 with shipping. This repair would have cost a couple of hundred if I had to call a repair technician.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

If doing this for the first time, it's harder to replace than described by others.

Start by removing the oven door. Reach in to unscrew the two screws that hold the sensor in place on the back wall of the oven. I was working on the upper oven of a double wall oven and found it more comfortable to sit on a tall bar stool while working. Pull the sensor partially out and you will see the connector wire running through the sensor opening. The sensor connector plug is too deep into the oven to reach with fingers or any tool. Next unscrew the 6" round heat circulator fan just below the sensor on the back wall of the oven. Pull the fan partially out and you will see the plug for the temp sensor directly behind. You may have to push some of the insulation of out of way. Unplug the old sensor and pull it back out directly through the sensor opening. Take the new sensor and thread it in through the opening and plug it in. Reinstall the circulator fan and then screw the new sensor in place. This should complete the temp sensor replacement.

Removed oven, removed top cover, replaced thermal fuse, removed back cover, replaced fuse in rear. Both fuses went bad due to self clean cycle. I feel like I almost burnt my house down and the fuses did their job. No more self cleaning for me

We got on YouTube and watched a couple of repair videos. We decided that the repair was something we would try to tackle ourselves.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

The part showed up with no markings on it saying it was glass or fragile or anything. So naturally, the UPS or whoever people broke the glass in transit.
Have been trying to get it replaced/returned for almost a month now.

Customer service is a joke and when you call the 800 number it always says "no reps are available"

AVOID using PARTSELECT at ALL COSTS

1. Turn off the breaker.
2. Remove all of the oven racks.
3. Remove the oven door as per users manual.
4. Remove two 1/4" screws on the plate holding the broil element
to the back of the oven.
5.. Remove two 1/4" screws in the front of the element holding
reflective plate and element toward the front of the oven.
6. Carefully pull the element out enough to remove the wire spade
contacts with from the rear of the element with long nosed pliers
being careful not to let the wires go behind the rear oven cavity.
7. Element and top reflective plate assembly can now be removed
from the oven.
8. The old element is removed from the reflective plate by removing
four 1/4" screws.
9. Install the new element on the plate and reverse the procedure to
reinstall the completed assembly into the oven.
10 Reinstall the door and racks, turn on the power and test.

REMOVED PANEL COVER [ 4 SCREWS]
UNSCREWED 2 SCREWS ON LATCH DOOR
ON THIS MODEL THE PART WAS IN TOO TIGHT OF QUARTERS SO I HAD TO LOOSEN A TOP PANEL SO I COULD RAISE PART HIGH
ENOUGH TO RELEASE IT FROM A CATCH AT THE BACK OF THE PART. PUSH PART BACK, RAISE AND PULL FORWARDS.
REMOVED 4 WIRES ONE AT A TIME AND ATTACHING TO NEW PART. REPLACED PART, TIGHTEN TOP PANEL AND REPLACED PANEL COVER.

NOT BAD FOR A 91 YEAR OLD