KEBC208KSS0 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

I first did a search with my issue, found out there were many others with the same issue. That then led me to see the part, a fuse / thermostat, was the culprit and easy to replace it seemed. But first called a service co. who confirmed my findings, and quoted a fix of a $2-300! So I bought the part; worse case I'd have someone else install. The web site noted the few screws to remove and a key suggestion to find a box of same height to easily slide out oven; I used a porter cable nail gun case which worked great. Took my time removing trim, mounting screws etc., slid out oven easy. Removed back plate and there was the older one. Removed and installed new in a minute. Spent more time cleaning around trim than actual install. What a great day it was. Wife was happy too!

1- TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN
2- REMOVE OVEN
3- REMOVE BACK PANEL SHROUDING
4- DISCONNECT POWER TO BLOWER
5- REMOVE BLOWER UNIT
5- REPLACE WITH NEW UNIT
6- RECONNECTED POWER
7- PUT OVEN BACK

Read all the way through this once before doing it. It really helps in keeping pieces and parts separated. First I had to take off the oven door. Please do this as it will make your life so much easier! The owners instructions does a lousy job explaining how to do this. You need to insert a small Allen wrench into the holes behind the door hinge pin. Just stick them in there and leave them. If you don't have Allen wrenches you can use small nails or the like, but you have to put something into the holes. Close the door slowly, yes it will feel like you are going to break the hinges or the wrenches. When you get the door almost completely closed you should wiggle the door a bit by the handle and pull up. The door will come off. Once you get the door off you can get to work. Leave these wrenches in the hinge holes. You will need a flat surface big enough to lay the door down to work on it. Lay it down with the handle towards the surface and the broken glass facing you. Remove the 4 screws on the broken glass side, the 2 screws holding the brackets on the bottom and the 2 screws on the top of the door. You will need to wiggle the inside cover off because there are 2 little clips at the top you need to get it off of the outer glass door. You should have 2 separate pieces, the outer glass of the door and the inner tempered glass and sheet metal portion of the door. Set the outer glass door aside, somewhere safe, as you really don't want to have to reorder that part too! From there you can lay the door down with the broken inner door glass towards the work surface. Remove the screws and good pieces of glass and lay them down in the order you take them out. This helps putting them back together later. Keep the pieces together in sets so you know which set goes to each section. There should be 3 pieces of glass total in the assembly. You remove the screws and the 2 good pieces of glass. The inside door glass is accessible under a large piece of sheet metal held in place by little flanges cut into it. You can remove this sheet metal panel piece by wiggling it out away from under the hinges and away from the hinge end. There is a piece of insulation under there as well. Make sure you reseat it correctly when you put it all back together. If you don't it will stick out, and make things hard to line up. Pull the broken glass out, Put the new glass in and replace the sheet metal panel. At this point I would suggest putting the four screws you took out at the very beginning from the inside of the door back in. They keep the 2 hinge assemblies in place and they will be harder to line up if you don't. You need to work from the bottom side up but it's pretty easy to get the 4 screws back in. Don't be afraid to wiggle the pieces around so you can line up the holes. They need to line up so that the hinges line up back to the oven. Reverse how you took the other glass pieces out and put the door back together. Put the front glass piece back on and secure it in place with the bottom door brackets and screws and the top 2 screws. Lift the door unit back up by the handle and place it in the slots for the hinges exactly the way you removed it. You will feel it sort of catch when you pull the door open slowly. Remove the Allen wrenches and you are done.

I removed the door from the oven by locking the hinges with the built-in locks leaving the door open about 20 degrees. the door can then be lifted slightly off the hinges and pulled out at the bottom while tilting the top inward to remove it from the oven. With the door laying on a suitable surface with the outside face down, I removed about 6 or 8 screws from the door inside panel freeing the springs and the inside panel from the middle and front panels. Care must be taken to note from which locations the pointed self-taping screws come as opposed to the narrower-thread machine screws that hold the springs. Note: The inside panel does not need to be removed! Once the inside panel is freed from the inner panels, using suction cups the glass can be lifted slightly and slid toward the bottom of the door, rotated slightly, and removed through the window hole in the back face of the door. The new glass is installed in a similar way using suction cups by maneuvering it at a angle through window hole and into its frame. The hinges were replaced by lifting the bottom of the inner door panel slightly to clear the hinge and swapping in the new ones. Be sure to observe the difference between the left and right hinges in the location of the screw hole at the bottom of each hinge The narrow-thread machine screws that hold the hinges to the inside panel should be installed first while you can get you hand inside the door to hold each hinge in alignment with the screw holes while you start each screw. Re-install the pointed self tapping screws by pressing down on the rear panel to collapse the spring-action glass frames within the door so that the short screws will reach their threaded hole. Be careful to back off the self tapping screws first until you feel a click into the original threads to avoid stripping the holes. Last re-install the door on the oven. The replacement hinges should have come with the springs already "cocked" with the built in locks in place. Install the door with it in tan almost-closed position by sliding the hinge extensions into the slots in the oven. Once the extensions are properly in the slots the door can be fully opened and the built-in hinge locks re-positioned to the unlocked position to allow the door to fully close. Should you accidentally release only one of the hinge locks in trying to insert the hinge extensions into the slots you will have to reset the hinge. If the door is free from the oven, this may require a pair of heavy pliers, like channel lock pliers, to re-tension the hinge spring and "cock" the hinge extension by re-positioning the built-in lock in the locked position. If the hinge lock on one side of the door releases, but the the opposite side hinge extension is not fully inserted into the oven slot I recommend carefully moving the door to the fully open position, being careful to avoid twisting the inserted spring's extension, so that the hinge lock can be re-positioned to the locked position, the door full removed, and start again to install it. It helps to have two persons to hold opposite sides of the door for this operation as the door is heavy, but not essential. When in the proper position the hinge extensions may not appear fully inserted, but this is normal to allow for closing of the built in locks. It helps to observe how much of the hinge extension is exposed either before removing the door initially, or, if you have a double oven, looking at the hinges on the door of the other oven. Good luck with your repair.

removed double oven from wall removed cover from electronic cover and replaced part. realitivity simple repair

Shut off power at breaker and removed oven door to lessen weight. Removed oven trim and retaining screws and tried pulling out of cabinet. Stuck on power cable, so had to remove Mircrowave oven above to get to power cable plug. Removed oven back cover panel to access thermostat. Easy to unplug and replace with new thermostat. Reassembled and turned on power. Cooked dinner in oven.

I removed the two stainless trim pieces (2 screws) and then two screws which hold the oven frame to the cabinet. Be careful to put a pad on your floor before you pull the oven out of the cabinet as there are sharp edges on the bottom of the oven. I removed apprximately 12 screws holding the back panel in place. The fixed set point thermostat is in middle toward the top of the oven cavity after removing the rear panel. Just remove two screws and slide the terminal connectors onto the new thermostat. Very easy job for someone who is not too handy.

Repair was fairly simple, unscrewed oven from cabinet and pulled it out. Then remove screws on back panel to access the thermostat location. Unscrew old thermostat, unplug it from connectors and plug in new thermostat. Then screw back in place, replace cover and pop oven back in place. Now fire it up, worked for me! Thanks to part-select. Good luck everyone. Probably saved $200 service call.

Followed a video. Followed instructions

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

Removed old racks, installed new racks. Recycled old racks.

It was a matter of swapping out the old door with new door. In all, it was a snap . Around 10 screws to take it apart and a few brackets to hold it all together.

Quickly

Originally ordered just the spring assuming that might be it and it was the cheapest way. However after getting in I found that the latch assembly had a broken 'tit' that is intended to hold the metal latch in place as it moves. Attempted to glue w/ epoxy but as i expected there was too much pressure to hold it in place. So....ordered the assembly.

TURN OFF BREAKER.....

1) Remove the two side rails by removing screw on the inside bottom of rails.
2) It helps to remove the door to get it out of your way but not required. To do this open door fully and insert two nails or similar into holes on each hinge. Close the door until the hinge contact nails. Lift the door up and out.
3) remove the top control panel by removing screw on either side (outside of oven)and screws on the underside of panel behind upper door.
4) It help to completely remove the panel to have more room to work but not required. If you do it is a good idea to photo the cable locations so it is easy to recall where they go. For the most part they only fit one location but always a good idea.
5) remove the latch by removing all spade connectors and two screws in front.
6) place new latch and reassemble.