KEBC107KBT1 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

Shut off power at breaker and removed oven door to lessen weight. Removed oven trim and retaining screws and tried pulling out of cabinet. Stuck on power cable, so had to remove Mircrowave oven above to get to power cable plug. Removed oven back cover panel to access thermostat. Easy to unplug and replace with new thermostat. Reassembled and turned on power. Cooked dinner in oven.

Read all the way through this once before doing it. It really helps in keeping pieces and parts separated. First I had to take off the oven door. Please do this as it will make your life so much easier! The owners instructions does a lousy job explaining how to do this. You need to insert a small Allen wrench into the holes behind the door hinge pin. Just stick them in there and leave them. If you don't have Allen wrenches you can use small nails or the like, but you have to put something into the holes. Close the door slowly, yes it will feel like you are going to break the hinges or the wrenches. When you get the door almost completely closed you should wiggle the door a bit by the handle and pull up. The door will come off. Once you get the door off you can get to work. Leave these wrenches in the hinge holes. You will need a flat surface big enough to lay the door down to work on it. Lay it down with the handle towards the surface and the broken glass facing you. Remove the 4 screws on the broken glass side, the 2 screws holding the brackets on the bottom and the 2 screws on the top of the door. You will need to wiggle the inside cover off because there are 2 little clips at the top you need to get it off of the outer glass door. You should have 2 separate pieces, the outer glass of the door and the inner tempered glass and sheet metal portion of the door. Set the outer glass door aside, somewhere safe, as you really don't want to have to reorder that part too! From there you can lay the door down with the broken inner door glass towards the work surface. Remove the screws and good pieces of glass and lay them down in the order you take them out. This helps putting them back together later. Keep the pieces together in sets so you know which set goes to each section. There should be 3 pieces of glass total in the assembly. You remove the screws and the 2 good pieces of glass. The inside door glass is accessible under a large piece of sheet metal held in place by little flanges cut into it. You can remove this sheet metal panel piece by wiggling it out away from under the hinges and away from the hinge end. There is a piece of insulation under there as well. Make sure you reseat it correctly when you put it all back together. If you don't it will stick out, and make things hard to line up. Pull the broken glass out, Put the new glass in and replace the sheet metal panel. At this point I would suggest putting the four screws you took out at the very beginning from the inside of the door back in. They keep the 2 hinge assemblies in place and they will be harder to line up if you don't. You need to work from the bottom side up but it's pretty easy to get the 4 screws back in. Don't be afraid to wiggle the pieces around so you can line up the holes. They need to line up so that the hinges line up back to the oven. Reverse how you took the other glass pieces out and put the door back together. Put the front glass piece back on and secure it in place with the bottom door brackets and screws and the top 2 screws. Lift the door unit back up by the handle and place it in the slots for the hinges exactly the way you removed it. You will feel it sort of catch when you pull the door open slowly. Remove the Allen wrenches and you are done.

I removed the door from the oven by locking the hinges with the built-in locks leaving the door open about 20 degrees. the door can then be lifted slightly off the hinges and pulled out at the bottom while tilting the top inward to remove it from the oven. With the door laying on a suitable surface with the outside face down, I removed about 6 or 8 screws from the door inside panel freeing the springs and the inside panel from the middle and front panels. Care must be taken to note from which locations the pointed self-taping screws come as opposed to the narrower-thread machine screws that hold the springs. Note: The inside panel does not need to be removed! Once the inside panel is freed from the inner panels, using suction cups the glass can be lifted slightly and slid toward the bottom of the door, rotated slightly, and removed through the window hole in the back face of the door. The new glass is installed in a similar way using suction cups by maneuvering it at a angle through window hole and into its frame. The hinges were replaced by lifting the bottom of the inner door panel slightly to clear the hinge and swapping in the new ones. Be sure to observe the difference between the left and right hinges in the location of the screw hole at the bottom of each hinge The narrow-thread machine screws that hold the hinges to the inside panel should be installed first while you can get you hand inside the door to hold each hinge in alignment with the screw holes while you start each screw. Re-install the pointed self tapping screws by pressing down on the rear panel to collapse the spring-action glass frames within the door so that the short screws will reach their threaded hole. Be careful to back off the self tapping screws first until you feel a click into the original threads to avoid stripping the holes. Last re-install the door on the oven. The replacement hinges should have come with the springs already "cocked" with the built in locks in place. Install the door with it in tan almost-closed position by sliding the hinge extensions into the slots in the oven. Once the extensions are properly in the slots the door can be fully opened and the built-in hinge locks re-positioned to the unlocked position to allow the door to fully close. Should you accidentally release only one of the hinge locks in trying to insert the hinge extensions into the slots you will have to reset the hinge. If the door is free from the oven, this may require a pair of heavy pliers, like channel lock pliers, to re-tension the hinge spring and "cock" the hinge extension by re-positioning the built-in lock in the locked position. If the hinge lock on one side of the door releases, but the the opposite side hinge extension is not fully inserted into the oven slot I recommend carefully moving the door to the fully open position, being careful to avoid twisting the inserted spring's extension, so that the hinge lock can be re-positioned to the locked position, the door full removed, and start again to install it. It helps to have two persons to hold opposite sides of the door for this operation as the door is heavy, but not essential. When in the proper position the hinge extensions may not appear fully inserted, but this is normal to allow for closing of the built in locks. It helps to observe how much of the hinge extension is exposed either before removing the door initially, or, if you have a double oven, looking at the hinges on the door of the other oven. Good luck with your repair.

Followed a video. Followed instructions

Repair was fairly simple, unscrewed oven from cabinet and pulled it out. Then remove screws on back panel to access the thermostat location. Unscrew old thermostat, unplug it from connectors and plug in new thermostat. Then screw back in place, replace cover and pop oven back in place. Now fire it up, worked for me! Thanks to part-select. Good luck everyone. Probably saved $200 service call.

Originally ordered just the spring assuming that might be it and it was the cheapest way. However after getting in I found that the latch assembly had a broken 'tit' that is intended to hold the metal latch in place as it moves. Attempted to glue w/ epoxy but as i expected there was too much pressure to hold it in place. So....ordered the assembly.

TURN OFF BREAKER.....

1) Remove the two side rails by removing screw on the inside bottom of rails.
2) It helps to remove the door to get it out of your way but not required. To do this open door fully and insert two nails or similar into holes on each hinge. Close the door until the hinge contact nails. Lift the door up and out.
3) remove the top control panel by removing screw on either side (outside of oven)and screws on the underside of panel behind upper door.
4) It help to completely remove the panel to have more room to work but not required. If you do it is a good idea to photo the cable locations so it is easy to recall where they go. For the most part they only fit one location but always a good idea.
5) remove the latch by removing all spade connectors and two screws in front.
6) place new latch and reassemble.

Removed the door from the oven. Undid all the parts above the inner glass door. Installed the inner glass and reassembled the door. Reinstalled oven door.

After reading all the other entries, I decided that I could do this! My first hurdle was getting the oven door off the hinges. Mine were not like any of the others described. My son-in-law looked at them and couldn't figure them out. So, I found the original installation instructions and, lo and behold, they said to flip the lever (one finger operation) in each of the rectangular holes holding the door onto the oven and then lift up until the door comes off. I did it, and it did! Boy, is it heavy! From there I just followed everyone else's instruction about undoing the screws, washing the glass panels, lining up the screw holes to get it back together, etc. One thing that took me longer was that the steel panel needs to go back the way it came out, not flipped! When I washed the glass panel it held, I put it down wrong and then "installed" it backwards. Luckily, I have a double oven and looked at the other one to see what was holding up the re-assembly! I'm glad that one of the others mentioned that the glass on the "bottom", the one that broke, isn't held in my screws or steel plates -- nothing, so I wasn't surprised when I got to it and it was "floating" on the insulation. My white insulation was like a fine fiberglass and was easy to stuff back in around the rim of the new glass. Took me a little over one hour. So, no more wet rags on hot glass (you'd think after living 72 years that I would remember this!) The glass fit perfectly and my husband would have been proud of me -- that I tackled a job that he usually handled, and that I saved over $200 for a couple of hours of labor and travel time.

removed double wall oven light lens install bulb replace lens fini

With just the removal of a few screws I was able to replace the glass with the side benefit of cleaning the outter glass that had gotten dirty over the years with use. This is a simple project that all can complete.

I pinpointed the location of the sound, took off the protective plate, felt it vibrating against the plate. I disconnected the power supply, and looked at the wirings and how it was connected, saw some burning residue surrounding the area of the Transformer. Then figured that I could simply replace this. I wrote down the Model and Serial number of the Stove, searched online, found this site. Located the part on the diagram, then simply ordered it. My part arrived in 3 days, and had the part replaced the next day. Couldn't be a smoother fix. Thanks.

After turning of the breaker for the oven, I pulled out the oven, removed the back panel. The High-Temp thermal cutoff was attached to 2 wires, which I unplugged, and then removed the cutoff by removing two screws. I then replaced the part in reverse order, pushed the oven back into the cabinet, and turned the breaker back on.

Removed old racks, installed new racks. Recycled old racks.

It was a matter of swapping out the old door with new door. In all, it was a snap . Around 10 screws to take it apart and a few brackets to hold it all together.

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