Models > KDRP407HSS4 > Instructions

KDRP407HSS4 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for KDRP407HSS4 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KDRP407HSS4
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Inner glass door cracked

  • Customer: Carmen from Redlands, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Kept removing screws and pulled things out until I got to the inner glass.
Yep, clueless and never did this before.
Put everything back in the opposite order of taking it out. Wala it's fixed.
Repair people wanted over $300 for parts and labor. However, with Partselect I was able to fix it for under $50.00 Well worth it!
Carmen

Cracked inner door glass on oven

  • Customer: Thomas from Rockville Centre, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I am not the handiest guy around so i was a little nervous doing this job but figured i would take a crack at it ( no pun intended). Took the door off as per instructions from kitchenaid , unscrewed all the outer screws , took off the back of door unscrewed the metal bar holding the glass in ( there are 3 levels of glass) took the 2 good glass sheets out got to the broken glass removed that put the new one in , replaced all the other glass and screws and put door back on, and i felt so proud. Probably saved about 150 dollars by doing it myself. I feel so proud.

Inner door glass broken

  • Customer: Waldemar from Oak Hill, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Relatively easy, my Jenn Aire model has a small 1/8 inch (est)hole under each of the door hinge assembly's, I inserted a an allen wrench on each side to hold the hinge. I then semi-closed the oven door, caution do it slowly until you get some resistance. You then pull upward on the door, caution it is heavy, you might have to jiggle it a bit. Once you have the door off you have to remove screws around the cover, the rest is intuitive. We took longer because we cleaned all the components.

every time I would try to do the self clean mode on my drop in range the thermostat blows. Last time it was still under warranty. I took the part number from the repair man's invoice to order the new part.

  • Customer: joyce from thomasville, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
My husband took the back off and replaced it. The repairman suggested pulling the range out into the floor to run the self clean mode. I have owned several such ranges and have never had to do that and won't now. Easy Clean Oven Cleaner will be the next thing I use.

Broken inside view glass

  • Customer: Michael from Costa Mesa, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 4 screws top and bottom of the outer door panel. Remove outer door, then the two inner panes of glass. You are then able to remove the broken inner glass. Carefully slide the new inner glass into place, being careful not to tear the insulation. Once new inner glass is in place carefully replace the two inner glass panes and secure the screws. Replace the outer door and the top and bottom screws and that's it!

I broke the inside oven door glass while cleaning it

  • Customer: Guy from Little Rock, AR
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
The exact part for this oven is no longer available. I purchased one hat was close in size, but larger than the original. Upper and lower brackets hold the glass in place, so length was not a problem but height was. I removed the upper brackets, re-shaped them with the vise, a hammer and metal shears. The glass would now sit inside the bracket where the screws also went. I had to be quite careful the screws did not shatter the new glass.

The hardest part was aligning the 4 holes for the top brackets. Since 2 holes were on one piece of the door, and 2 were on the other (holding the glass sandwiched between) precision was critical. Also the screw length was critical because the glass now sat in a area where it could come in contact with the screws. (I know - pictures would be most helpful, and I didn't take any.)

Using tape and lots of patience, I got the holes aligned. I covered the old holes inside the oven door with spare screws. I filed down the points of the sheet metal screws so that, if they contacted the glass, they would not be pointed.

Once everything was reassembled, I turned the oven on high for about 1/2 hour to ensure the heated metal and glass all played nicely together. We've had no problems in the month since the repair.

Taking the door apart.

  • Customer: R G from Orlando, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
This was more difficult than anticipated - probably because I'd never done it before. Once I got the door off (I didn't have the proper pins and used nails but didn't realize they had to be headless) I found all the screws, which were relatively easy to take out. I was surprised that the thermal door glass was obscured by two other panes of glass. It took more disassembly than anticipated and a few false starts when reassembling, but all in all it got done. I was happy that a job that would have cost probably $300 or more ended up getting done for $40 plus my labor - which isn't worth much these days. I'd certaily do it again.

Oven light went out

  • Customer: James from Burlingame, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Turned out the oven light bulb were not the problem and am awaiting callback about what needs to be done to get the lights working again.

Oven door latch would self-activate the door-lock feature for all operatons making it impossible to use the oven

  • Customer: Anthony from Lambertville, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
My electric oven is a built-in. First I turned off power to the oven.

Then, I removed the oven door as instructed by Kitchenaid, next I removed the screws that held the concealing-sleeves on each side of the oven opening. Slid down the sleeves, loosened the exposed screws on each to allow the oven to slide out. Slid the oven out abut half way to expose the top. Removed the metal sheeting from top of oven to expose area where door latch assembly was secured. Removing the sheeting was made easier by removing the screws on each side of the control panel and lifting the panel out of the way.

The latch assembly is held in place by two screws through the front of the plastic venting. Identified the connections to appropriate points before I removed the wiring, removed wiring and attached to points on the new latch assembly.

Secured latch assembly to plastic vent, secured sheeting to top of oven, placed conrol panel back in place, pushed oven back and secured with screws.
Slid sleeves into position, secured with screws and replaced oven door.

oven wouldn't heat after self-cleaning the oven

  • Customer: Joi from Higginsville, MO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
The website and diagram of my oven helped me know exactly what was wrong and where to locate the problem. I simply removed the oven door and the trim, pulled the oven out of the wall. After removing the back panel I located the part and put in the new part. Then reversed the procedure.

quit heating

  • Customer: karen from bismarck, ND
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I have a rental and the tenant called. She said that she had a repair man out to fix the oven but he couldn't~that it needed to be replaced as he could not get parts.I contacted your company via phone and the person was so helpful~he asked the problem, looked up the model and advised me on this!It works like a brand new oven!Thanks you

There was an annoying buzzing sound coming from the bottom of the stove

  • Customer: Craig from Snoqualmie, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I pinpointed the location of the sound, took off the protective plate, felt it vibrating against the plate. I disconnected the power supply, and looked at the wirings and how it was connected, saw some burning residue surrounding the area of the Transformer. Then figured that I could simply replace this. I wrote down the Model and Serial number of the Stove, searched online, found this site. Located the part on the diagram, then simply ordered it. My part arrived in 3 days, and had the part replaced the next day. Couldn't be a smoother fix. Thanks.

Broken Inner Glass on Oven Door by a Grandmother Who Should Know Better!

  • Customer: Diane from Citrus Heights, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
After reading all the other entries, I decided that I could do this! My first hurdle was getting the oven door off the hinges. Mine were not like any of the others described. My son-in-law looked at them and couldn't figure them out. So, I found the original installation instructions and, lo and behold, they said to flip the lever (one finger operation) in each of the rectangular holes holding the door onto the oven and then lift up until the door comes off. I did it, and it did! Boy, is it heavy! From there I just followed everyone else's instruction about undoing the screws, washing the glass panels, lining up the screw holes to get it back together, etc. One thing that took me longer was that the steel panel needs to go back the way it came out, not flipped! When I washed the glass panel it held, I put it down wrong and then "installed" it backwards. Luckily, I have a double oven and looked at the other one to see what was holding up the re-assembly! I'm glad that one of the others mentioned that the glass on the "bottom", the one that broke, isn't held in my screws or steel plates -- nothing, so I wasn't surprised when I got to it and it was "floating" on the insulation. My white insulation was like a fine fiberglass and was easy to stuff back in around the rim of the new glass. Took me a little over one hour. So, no more wet rags on hot glass (you'd think after living 72 years that I would remember this!) The glass fit perfectly and my husband would have been proud of me -- that I tackled a job that he usually handled, and that I saved over $200 for a couple of hours of labor and travel time.

Upper Oven Latch Not Functioning Properly

  • Customer: Jack from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Originally ordered just the spring assuming that might be it and it was the cheapest way. However after getting in I found that the latch assembly had a broken 'tit' that is intended to hold the metal latch in place as it moves. Attempted to glue w/ epoxy but as i expected there was too much pressure to hold it in place. So....ordered the assembly.

TURN OFF BREAKER.....

1) Remove the two side rails by removing screw on the inside bottom of rails.
2) It helps to remove the door to get it out of your way but not required. To do this open door fully and insert two nails or similar into holes on each hinge. Close the door until the hinge contact nails. Lift the door up and out.
3) remove the top control panel by removing screw on either side (outside of oven)and screws on the underside of panel behind upper door.
4) It help to completely remove the panel to have more room to work but not required. If you do it is a good idea to photo the cable locations so it is easy to recall where they go. For the most part they only fit one location but always a good idea.
5) remove the latch by removing all spade connectors and two screws in front.
6) place new latch and reassemble.

Knob on range top did not work.

  • Customer: James from Hurst, TX
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Since removing the burner valve would disable the cooktop, I ordered the valve first. Unfortunately the valve could not be removed because the screw that hold it in place was frozen to the valve and manifold. I finally had to cut the screw off with a hacksaw. Since the screw is a special screw, substitutions did not work, so I had to order the screw and pay shipping a second time. These screws should be included with the valve. Anyway, the hacksaw did some slight damage to the manifold so that the screw did not seal off properly. I had to use a Dremel tool to smooth the surface and then use fiberglass to coat the surface to seal any scratches or potential leaks. I screwed the screw in after applying the fiberglass resin to the manifold surface while the resin was still pliable. This seemed to seal the manifold off so that there is no leak, but it does make me nervous. Because of having to reorder for the additional part, the range top took almost a week to repair and could not be used during that time all because the screw was not included with the burner valve. Also a screw with a larger head would have allowed a larger wrench to be used and the screw could have been removed easily. The screw head was so small that it rounded off from the wrench making it more difficult to remove.
All Instructions for the KDRP407HSS4
31-45 of 116