Oven buzzed and no heat
- Customer: Joseph from Saint Charles IL
- Difficulty: Difficult
- Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
- Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
- 45 of 52 people found this instruction helpful
First took down the hood/microwave and removed the sheet metal housing.
I changed HV diode as it was the least expensive component and the first one that internet suggested and tested bad with a ohm meter. Didn't fix a thing.
Capacitor failed test with meter so I ordered and then replaced this.
Still no change so I ordered a new magnetron.
Now I have over $100 invested in a 9 year old oven but a new one is three times this so if my time is free I am still ahead.
The magnetron may be the first part installed onto the oven. To remove the old magnetron and install the new the top plastic vent hood moldings and motor had to be removed. Pretty straight forward but not a little amount of work.
The new magnetron did the job and the oven now heats like new.
My microwave began suddenly making a loud humming noise while cooking food.
- Customer: Lindsay from Nampa ID
- Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
- Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
- Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
- 84 of 205 people found this instruction helpful
My microwave began suddenly making a loud harsh humming noise while cooking food. I did not let it go on long enough to know if it cooked the food or not. I did some Internet research and learned that it was likely the Magnetron. The test for this was to run the microwave for at least a minute on the lowest power setting and see if the noise cycled on and off. It did, so I (actually, my wife) ordered the part from partselect.com using the model number. I was successful in replacing the part, and we are back to microwave popcorn and quick defrost for a price that was less than a service call, however, it was time consuming, required a large work area, and access to 5 out of 6 sides of the unit. So proceed at your own discretion
The first thing in every set of repair instructions was to discharge (short-circuit) the capacitor, as it may store large (as in lethal) amounts of electricity even when it is not connected to a power source. I had never done this, but found these instructions:
“Discharging your microwave's capacitor is absolutely essential in preventing injury to your microwave, your tools, and yourself. A capacitor stores a large amount of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged, and it must be discharged before beginning any repair.
A capacitor is discharged by creating a short circuit between each of the two capacitor terminals, and between each terminal and the chassis. The chassis is the metal mounting (bare metal surface) of the capacitor. Read these directions thoroughly before you proceed.
With your microwave unit unplugged, touch the blade of a well insulated screwdriver to one terminal. Gently slide the screwdriver forward until it reaches the other terminal, holding it there for a few seconds. Be aware that this often results in a loud and startling 'POP'.
Repeat this procedure in order to create a short circuit between each capacitor terminal and the chassis (bare metal mounting plate surface). This same method can be applied to a capacitor having three, and not two, terminals.”
I had not run my microwave in over a week, and then while my part was shipping, left my microwave 'unplugged' for more than two days, and my capacitor apparently discharged itself, although I did go through the above procedure carefully and completely - just in case.
1. You must remove your microwave from the cabinets - it is impossible to repair otherwise. This is best accomplished with 2 strong people - my wife and I made it work, but wished for another guy.
a. While supporting the microwave, remove the two screws coming down through the cabinet above.
b. Lift the rear of the microwave as much as possible, then tilt the front down - there is a clip high on the left side, as well as the hinge/clips on the bottom.
c. If you do not lift it off the wall all at once, you may have to lift the rear even farther to remove it from the hinge/clips on the bottom.
Important Note: Always beware of the microwave door, if it is bent or broken and cannot retain a seal, the microwave not function as a safety feature to keep from releasing microwaves.
2. Remove the vent cover on the top/front of the microwave - be careful, it's plastic.
3. Remove the vent cover and light panel on the bottom of the microwave - this is several screws and some simple wire clips.
4. Remove the "shell" (top and sides) of the microwave - this is several more screws on the back. Make sure to remove the plate that is holding the cord in place on the top.
5. Remove the interface panel by the screws on the top (which had been hidden by the vent cover) - the wires can remain attached, just slide it aside.
6. Remove the metal cover on the right side at the rear; this will expose the Magnetron and the Capacitor. Remember to immediately test and discharge the capacitor!
7. After you discharge the capacitor, remove the other cover plate and the support bracket - in case you haven't noticed, this is a time and space consuming operation.
Microwave went dead while in use.
- Customer: Keith from Georgetown TX
- Difficulty: Really easy
- Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
- Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
- 22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
1. removed vent across the top to gain excess to Screw holding control in place. 2. Removed control panel to access Fuse. 3. Remover fuse after pulling plug. 4.Tested fuse for continuity with volt ohm meter noting no continuity.5. Orderd new fuse. 6. receeived new fuse and installed infuse holder.7. plugged microwave plug back in receptical and tested unit now working OK.Reversed steps 2 & 1 job complete
Loud buzzing noise and no heat.
- Customer: Charles R from Libertyville IL
- Difficulty: Difficult
- Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
- Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
- 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
PartSelect website indicated replacing the high voltage power supply diode is the solution for "no heat" 99% of the time, but the diode was OK. There is more info at the website concerning the case of "loud buzzing and no heat" indicating the magnetron needs to be replaced. As an electrical engineer with knowledge of microwave components, this was also my best guess. However, getting to the magnetron is not the easiest job, but it's not impossible. You also have to be careful to bleed off any charge stored on the high voltage power supply capacitor. Luckily, I found my KitchenAid service manual tucked away inside the unit since I couldn't find it online.