Models > KBRA20ELSS01 > Instructions

KBRA20ELSS01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for KBRA20ELSS01 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KBRA20ELSS01
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No Ice, Water did not fill icemaker

  • Customer: Barbara from Davenport IA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 26 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
We weren't sure if the problem was in the Water Inlet Valve or in the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. The water in the door did work. We removed the Water Inlet Valve & tested it with an Ohm Meter. It tested good so we put it back in. We then ordered the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. When it arrived we installed it and waited a few hours but the icemaker still did not fill with water. We telephoned a parts store and were told the problem could be the thermostat or we could replace the whole icemaker. We replaced the whole icemaker.

while closing the door, the light switch fouled, resulting in the switch breaking

  • Customer: Kevin from Beckley WV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.

Broken hinge on bottom drawer lid.

  • Customer: Michael from Dublin OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
The lid that covers the front of the lower meat / produce drawer hinges upward on two small ( easily broken) plasic pins, one on each side of the drawer. One pin is moulded into each "END CAP" that also supports the drawer glides and glass shelf above. The entire end cap must be replaced to repair the hinge. The left side is easy (it's the only one I had to replace); the right side might be more difficult because the right end cap includes a temperature control.
1) Remove the two produce drawers above the lower drawer.
2) Lift off the front glass shelf support, the glass shelf, and the rear glass shelf support from below the two produce drawers.
3) Slide the lower drawer half way out. Remove the drawer lid by disengaging it from the remaining undamaged hinge pin on the OK end cap. Careful not to break the good one.
4) Slide the lower drawer all the way out, then lift up and towards you to remove it from its glides.
5) Using a 1/4" nutdriver or socket, remove the three recessed screws. Leave the drawer glide alone for now.
6) Pull the front of the end cap up and towards you about 3/4" to disengage it from a small retainig button at the top front. Pull the end cap toward you to disengage the two rear retaining fingers.
7) Using a small Phillips screwdriver, remove the drawer glide from the broken end cap and attach it to the replacement end cap. Note which end is the front before removing it.
8) Reassemble in reverse order. Again, be careful with the hinge pins.

plastic gear broke off - cubes not getting kicked out

  • Customer: Laurence from Middleton WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
removed the three screw holding the broken unit - pulled off the old module.

Before I could install new module I had to loosen some fasteners on ice maker so I could turn shaft to align with new module.

Then push on new unit and three screws. Had tumbling ice in about an hour. My wife thinks I'm a hero. (I am)

Freezer cold, refrigerator warm

  • Customer: Michael from Encinitas CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
For the timer, I removed the upper light panel in the refrigerator with a screwdriver and the defrost timer is just plugged in. Easy fix, however most websites were saying it was located down by the kickplate. The thermostat was I think was te real culprit of my problem. I removed the back plate of the freezer after removing the pullout drawers. It just took four screws. The vent/grill just pops out if squeeze it to one side and slide out the other. Then swivel out door. Note that I do not have the ice maker installed in mine so yours may have a another step. I unplugged the refrigerator at this point and grabbed my blow dryer. I melted all the ice that had formed on condenser. The thermostat is located to the right of the fan. Unclip old thermostat and snip wires with enough slack to attach new one. Attach with wire nuts, reclip and start moving in reverse back to the beginning. 7days and no problems!

ice would not fall from ice maker

  • Customer: Greg from Cary NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
I ran all the ice maker module tests that I could find online, I tried cleaning the contacts inside the ice maker control module, nothing worked...so I finally decided to purchase a new control module. I had already had the module out and taken apart a few times, so the new one was very easy to install. Just removed the entire icemaker from the fridge, removed a few screws, took off the old module, put on the new one, replaced the screws, re-installed the icemaker in the fridge (it just slides in and out similar to a shelf). And 30 minutes later I heard the first batch of ice cubes drop! And by morning the bucket was nearly full. After two weeks of no ice and trying to fix it myself - the family was glad to have ice again (it was July in NC!). In retrospect, I should have followed the advice I found online and ordered the new part sooner and saved all of those frustrating hours of trying to "fix" the part myself.

refrigerator not cold but freezer was cold

  • Customer: jarrett from PALM DESERT CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
removed ice maker and wire shelf. removed back panel screws and tilted forward. removed 2 screws holding motor bracket. swapped fan blade and reassembled

Ice maker not initiating harvest cycle (not making ice)

  • Customer: John from Elgin TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
My troubleshooting narrowed down the problem to either the control assembly or the thermostat, so I bought both just in case. The motor assembly fixed the problem and I didn't need to install the thermostat.

The main thing I want to tell others who are doing this repair, however, relates to the thermostat. If you do indeed need to replace the thermostat (#PS380941) there is something you will need that is not included with the part or mentioned anywhere on this site. The instructions with the thermostat indicate you need to apply something called "Aluminastic" to the thermostat when installing it. I don't know about you, but that isn't something I have around the house, so be sure to order a tube of it when you get the thermostat so you don't have to take a trip to the store to get it to finish the repair.

water to ice maker not shutting off; overflowing

  • Customer: g anthony from salt lake city UT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
1. turn off power.
2. pop off ice maker cover to access motor assembly.
3. remove three screws to assembly.
4. pull off assembly.
5. attach new assembly making sure metal arm and plastic
ice tray rod align with assembly.
6. screw assembly onto unit.
7. replace cover.
8. plug in refrigerator.
9. enjoy ice again with no leakage into freezer.

The black plastic or teflon coating on the ice mold was coming off in flakes and freezing in the ice cubes

  • Customer: Roger from Sunnyvale CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I took out the ice collection box and auger to get access to the three screws holding the ice maker assembly against the left wall of the freezer. You can use a screwdriver or a nut driver. I then unpluged the assembly and wiggled it loose from the water fill tube. I assumed that unplugging the unit would disable the water valve but I put a plastic tub under the fill tube just in case. I studied the assembly on the kitchen table for a few minutes before I disasembled it. After removing a snapon plastick cover I removed three or four screws on the gearbox and was able to pull and wiggle the parts apart. The heater contacts have rubber O rings so you have to be firm pulling the mould out of and into the gearbox mount. Make sure it is fully seated. On reassembly note that the ice kicking arm is notched so it fits into the gearbox only one way and it helps to have it in position when you screw the gearbox back on. I also found the plastic ice guide that fits on top of the mold a little awkward in snaping back together. Make sure its fingers space evenly with the ice kicking arms.

Icemaker arm was broken

  • Customer: Jason from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

ice buildup in freezer

  • Customer: Robert from Lincoln NE
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
The part was an exact match to the old one and the instructions from your website were all I needed to complete this repair. My wife thinks I am somewhat of an appliance genius now. Could not have done it without you...thanks

The icemaker stopped filling the ice tray to make ice.

  • Customer: shannon from sierra vista AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I checked the fuses and hoses in the back of the refrigerator to make sure water WAS in fact getting to the front of the fridge. Since the water through the front door worked fine, I had to check the water tube running to the ice maker. It was fine and water was waiting to go somewhere! I decided to pull the icemaker out of the fridge to see what I could fine. Once it was out, I took the ICEMAKER CONTROL AND MOTOR ASSEMBLY off (that's the side part with the dial on it). Only 3 screws to take that off, and it was EASY to see what was wrong once I took that off. There was a connection that was obviously bad (looked almost like it had burned out). My thought was that it was obvious what part was bad, what would it hurt for me to try to fix it myself? When I got online to find the part, PartSelect was the only one that I found that had the EXACT part that I needed, and lucky for me, there were multiple pictures of multiple angles of the part so I could compare and make sure I had the right one!! The part with shipping cost less than the cost of a repair tech to even come out and look at the fridge. Then add the cost of the part and labor if I had the repair tech fix it...I probably saved about $250!!!!

Light Switch broke

  • Customer: James Richard from St. Cloud MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

Auto defrost not working

  • Customer: Charles from Pasadena CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Found the coils in the freezer frosted up and no cold air getting to the refrig compartment. I first replaced the defrost timer but should have checked with a volt meter as it turned out that it was a thermostat on the coils in the freezer that was faulty, it actually had a visable defect, it was bulged out. I think that this thermostat prevents the defrost heater from over heating the coils. Replaced the defrost timer an this thermostat and all is good now.
All Instructions for the KBRA20ELSS01
16-30 of 646