KBFA20ERBL01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Philips head screwdriver and ten minutes was all it took! I removed the two screws that hold the icemaker assembly in place, then pulled it out a little and disconnected the electrical plug freeing the icemaker assembly. Then I snapped the external parts off my old icemaker assembly and snapped them on the new icemaker assembly. Installing the new icemaker assembly was just as fast and easy. I snapped the electrical plug into the new icemaker assembly, then screwed in the two screws. It was making ice shortly thereafter. Glob free ice! I'm glad I didn't call a repairman. I probably saved a hundred bucks. A ten year old could accomplish this simple and easy task. No wonder the Maytag repairman has time on his hands.

Took two times getting the correct part, however after getting the correct part it took about 10-minutes to replace. Had to take the fan out. When you put the new drip pan in make sure it is positioned so that the guides on the pan aligns with slots in the bottom refrig brace, otherwise back pannel will not align correctly. The fan is very easy getting aligned in the new tray. May take a little effort. I do not know why the pan on a refrighterator that is less than 5-years old could start breaking into many pieces.

I changed out the water valve behind the refrigerator that controls when the ice maker and water dispencer receives water. It was easy. I removed the lower back panel to get access to the valve. Pulled the hoses out by pushing up on the ring between the valve and hose and the hose came right out. I disconected the power lines. Of course the water was disconected and power plug out prior to starting the job. I replaced the valve and reconnected the lines and power. I put the back panel back in place and turned the water on to check for leaks. The next day I had ice in the ice maker.

The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.

I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.

I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!

I would definatly use partselect.com again.

First, I removed the drawers at the bottom of the fridge and then I removed the three hex head (7/32) screws that hold the end cap on. Then I disengaged the slider which connects to the temperature control for the pantry drawer. Then, unscrewed the drawer slides with a Phillips from the old end cap. Also the slide push rod has to be disengaged from the clips on the back of the endcap.

Then, I reinserted the push rod to the new end cap and reattached the drawer sliders and the slider itself. At this point I realized I SHOULD have unscrewed the temperature slider at the back where it covers the cold air outlet. The screw had slipped out. I replaced it with a slightly larger wood screw. Reinstall the drawers, all done.

It's good to note, first, that the dual water valve on Amana fridges are notorious for cracking and leaking, either due to the fridge being left in the cold (the water inside the valve freezes and expands, cracking the water valve) or from issues related to shipping. Read the reviews, here - it's a common issue, but easy and cheap to fix yourself. Here's my steps. I first turned off the water source to fridge by closing the correct valve. Next, I unplugged the fridge from electrical and from the water source line. When looking at the back of the fridge, I unscrewed the bottom left cover plate from the fridge body. After unscrewing and removing the plate, I made sure to note which lines came from which areas of the fridge and where the lines ended up at the dual water valve, and how they were routed through the plate and into the valve. The way this fridge is setup, the water source line screws into a main line that heads to the top of the fridge where the water filter is (like a "line in"). There's another line that heads back down to the bottom of the fridge (line out). The "line out" inserts into the outside plug of the dual water valve. The two lines coming out of the dual water valve are different sizes. Make sure to note which line goes to the icemaker and which line goes to the water dispenser inside the fridge. Once I knew which lines needed to go where, I grabbed my empty bucket, pulled the water lines out of the dual water valve with some pliers, and emptied the water into the bucket. After cleaning up any water splatter with my dry towels, I unscrewed the dual water valve from the plate. Once the old dual water valve was removed, I replaced it with the new valve and screwed it back into the plate. I cut off just a bit of the water line ends that were damaged due to pulling with the pliers, and then inserted them back into the correct spots on the dual water valve. I screwed the plate back into the fridge, reconnected the water source line (make sure to use some kind of water sealer tape or putty), plugged the fridge back into the electrical socket, turned the water source valve back on, and waited for leaks. No leaks! Once I was convinced there weren't any leaks, I had to bleed the water lines for about 20-30 minutes (it takes FOREVER...) by putting my bucket under the water dispenser inside the fridge and holding the water button for what seemed like an eternity - until the water was streaming steadily out of the dispenser. Voila! Good as new! Keep in mind that I didn't go through ALL the minute parts of each step - that would take too long. I'm believing that you'll be perceptive enough to catch the small things like looking at how the lines are routed into the dual water valve and where things are screwed into. Use your BRAIN, and you'll be fine. :-)

Begin by turning off the water source from the wall, next using a line wrench, remove the brass water line fitting nut from the copper water line from the wall. Next remove the second water line from the plastic push fitting by depressing the fitting to release the water line. Remove the Styrofoam insulation piece that resides between the water lines that run into the refrigerator, then pull the old filter head out. Reverse steps for installation.

Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not the thermostat or adapter control.

Since the crisper didn't come with a front, the old front needed to be removed from the broken cripser and attached to the new one. The easiest way to take off the front is to remove it from the bottom of the crisper. Once the pressure is released it comes off easy. Snap the front on the new crisper by starting with the top and snapping the bottom.

I pulled the whole unit(condenser&overload relay)
with my hand & disconnected the wire connected
to it & Replaced it with the new one.Peace of cake.

Popped out old gasket and popped in nwe one. This is where things get interersting, the new gasket
Does work as well as the one I replaced. I think the maganet is not strong enough. If anyone has had the same problem please let me know. This model ( Maytag- French door ) has been a lemon.

Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.

First, I removed the Climate control drawers, the lower shelf pieces and the Chef's Pantry drawer so I had room to work.

Next, I unfastened the two screws that held the pantry drawer gilder on the broken righthand end cap and removed the glider.

With a socket tool, I unfastened the three socket-head mounting screws that held the endcap to the refrigerator wall.

The righthand endcap has a climate control adjustment mechanism which includes a finger slider and an extenson bar snapped to the backside of the endcap. This extension bar connects with another bar mounted to back inside of the refrigerator.

I carefully disconnected the climate control mechanism fixed to the refrigerator from the endcap.

With the endcap out of the refrigerator, I next had to disconnect the climate control slide and extension bar from the broken endcap by unclipping several snaps holding these pieces in place.

Now with the new endcap, I clipped the extension bar in place, snapped the finger silder in place, and reconnected this assembly to the climate control bar in the refrigerator and clipped the mechanism to the rear of the endcap.

The socket mounting screws were used to fasten the endcap to the wall. The pantry drawer glider was attached to the endcap with it's screws. The shelves and climate control drawers were put back. Finally, I carefully snapped the Pantry door to the hinge pins on both the left and the (new) right end caps and put the pantry drawer back.

Turned the old one to unseat and replaced with a new one in the reverse order.

This is the 2nd part I have bought for this refrigerator from Part Select. I wish the parts came with some kind of instruction. I had to re-use parts from the original equipment each time. After studying the replacement part I was able to figure out what I needed to do, but it would have been nice to have a little more information. There were 3 pieces which I needed to remove from the damaged piece and add to the replacement part. I would gladly pay more for a complete replacement part.