KAWS750JQ1 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

Replaced pump without disassembling the cabinet or disconnecting motor or any other parts.

Disconnected power, drain, hot and cold water lines. drained lines to pail before taping to top of unit.

Tipped the unit to a 45 Deg. angle, leaning the top side edge onto a stool so that pump presented well at the raised bottom edge.

Removed hose clamps at pump suction and discharge ports and drained water into a shallow soaking pan. Kept clamps on hoses to facilitate reinstallation of pump.

Removed spring clamps at front and rear of pump housing.

Wiggled motor shaft away from coupling in pump. This is a friction fit, so no parts removal was required and no parts "come loose" in the process.

Wiggled new pump housing onto the motor shaft after checking square shaft alignment with respect to square female coupling on pump.

Pushed and twisted hose ends onto pump suction and discharge ports, then pulled spring clamps down over hose ends at pump ports.

Reset spring clamps so that they were aligned and square with pump ports. Reconnected power, drain, hot and cold water line connections.

Washer ran as before but without leaks this time.

I'd noticed for a while that our 15-year-old Kenmore washer was filling slowly, but when it started to take 30 minutes to fill to the "medium" level, I knew something was really wrong. There was plenty of water pressure, so I replaced a hose that was loaded with minerals and cleaned the filter (also clogged with minerals). But that didn't help! So I ordered a new water inlet valve, and replaced that. There's nothing tricky about the repair -- the hardest part is opening and closing the washer, for which I found instructions online. (Even so, it's the most time-consuming part of the project.) The result is the washer now fills as fast as when it was new. Just for fun, I took apart the old valve and expected to find it encrusted with minerals, but it looked fine, so I'm not sure where the actual breakdown was. But since the part only cost $25 -- less than a service call, for sure -- I was very happy to use a half hour of my time and keep the machine going a while longer.

First, be sure to take the washer apart properly! The first time I fixed my washer I took it apart the hard way to change the clutch, and believe me it took longer to put it back together!
This time I was replacing both the water inlet valve and the hose leading to the disperser.
First remove the two screws holding down the control panel. It then flips back and hangs out of the way behind the washer. Then remove the spring-clip holding the rear plate to the body of the washer, one on each side under the control panel.
Next you need to remove the screws holding the body down to the base at the rear of the machine.
I then tipped the body of the washer forward and let it rest on a bucket so I didn't have to take it completely off. Then it is easy to access the hose and the water inlet valve. Shut off the water and remove the supply hoses to the washer. Remove the two screws holding the water inlet valve to the rear of the washer using a nut driver. Next remove the wires to teh inlet valve, making sure to note which one is cold and hot, and which orientation they are. Mine was yellow on top and brown on bottom. Next remove the springs clamps holding the hose on. Replace the hose re-using the same clamps. Replace the water inlet valve reverse the process to re-assemble the washer. Tilt the body back on, put the screws in the base, clamp the back to the body, flip the contorl panel back over and insert the screws. Reattach the water supply lines and you are done!

It was extremely easy. I removed the plastic cap under the softener dispenser, removed the nut and washer that holds the upper agitator in place and then replaced the parts that came in the kit. The most important note for those who may be doing this job is that the o-ring for the cap under the softener dispenser, the seal washer for the bolt and the thrust spacer under the upper agitator all came with the kit. I did not realize that and ordered them all seperately.

Unbalanced load was creating a knocking sound (as if the clothes load was unbalanced). Dismantled the washer to find that one brackets had rusted out. [FYI: 3 bracket at 120 degree apart (for the 360 degree circle)]. I found that the hole (on the bracket) where the spring holds was gone. Purchased parts. Replaced them (spring, bracket, screw). Reassembled washer then ran wash for a cycle. Successful fix.

Unplugged power cord and disconnected water lines; note which is hot/cold. Washer was then tipped on its front. Discharge hose was disconnected. Washer was then rolled over onto its back as this would put the pump on top for much easier removal.

Pried off two clips attaching pump on motor using a flathead screwdriver. The rear clip was done by touch. Unplugged wiring plug from motor. Using an adjustable wrench (socket set would have worked better), remove two screws holding 2nd set of clips attaching motor on transmission. Then pried off clips.

Removed old coupling from transmission shaft and motor shaft, plus middle 6 hole widget thingy.

Installed new parts on transmission shaft and motor shaft with fingers pointing towards each other. Using a small hammer, tapped the parts onto each shaft. Placed 6 hole widget thingy on the transmission part, and then rotated motor so motor part would fit in remaining three holes.

Replaced clips to hold motor on transmission and reinstalled screws holding clips.

IMPORTANT: Replace motor wire now. I forgot to do this and after the tub was filled with water, realized that, and since the pump was also disconnected, could not get the water out. Had to get wife to hold washer up while I crawled underneath to reattach motor wire. Learn from my mistake!

Attach pump onto motor and replace clips. Double check everything is back in place.

Roll washer onto front side. Attach discharge hose. Tip washer back upright. Reconnect water. Reposition discharge hose and plug washer into power.

First try it smelled like something plastic was burning, but I think that was the old part shavings getting ground away.

Removed softner dispenser, removed bolt on top of agitater,replaced parts supplied with repair kit.
Directions were inclosed in package that were easy to follow.I ordered Thrust spacer not knowing it was included in repair kit.

I WAS VERY PLEASED WITH YOUR WEB SITE AND DELIVERY TIME.

I basically dismantled the washer and turned the washer over to access the motor,transmission and pump.I disconnected the electrical connections first.I then released the clips for the pump and the clips for the transmission.The coupler was broken in little pieces.I went to Google to search for parts and happened to reach your Web Site.I found the part number for the coupler from the schematic and ordered it.It was then I discovered the part number for the cam dogs for the agitator so I ordered it also.While on you site I read the various troubleshooting stories and how each was repaired.I put myself through a lot of unnecessary work by dismantling the whole washer when all I had to do was turn it over and access it from the bottom.The parts arrived in three days and the install was rather simple thanks to the direction of your site.I had a heck of a time reassembling the washer but all in all $42.00 was a lot cheaper than a repairman or a new washer.We now have a working washer and no leaks.
Thanks to your site ,I have a happy wife and clean clothes.

Remove the main bolts that hold the gearbox in place, pull the gearbox and shaft out. You will see the brake shoes and drum--the large spring is a struggle to replace. Getting it out was not hard. The biggest struggle I had was replacing the brake shoe spring after replacing the shoes. I ultimately compressed the spring in a vise, then used safety wired it, then placed it between the shoes, then cut the wire to relaease the spring.

before ordering the parts, I pulled the cap of the agitator, removed some internal parts of the agitator - had to remove one hex head bolt, and noticed the threads on the 3 little teenie weenie plastic dogs were worn off. I bought the repair kit on line after entering the model number, parts were here in a few days, and the repair took about 15 minutes. Works like new again.

The directions provided with the parts were very clear and made the job quick, easy, and painless.

I ordered the parts at a minimal cost compared to the repairman's quote, they arrived in 3 days. I used the laptop and put it right next to where I was working so that I could follow the directions step-by-step. The instructions were easy to follow and showed you right what to do so I never had any questions. My washer had a slightly different configuration but I figured it out. Replacing the parts was simple, take one off, put the other on. Putting the washer front back on was a little tricky, I had to have my daughter help me hold it in place while I wiggled it around to make sure it was just right before I screwed it back together. It was easier than I thought it would be. I told my husband I loved the internet, I would never have been able to do this job without the instructional video. Thanks PartsSelect!

Turned off water and pulled power plug, Then unscrewed hot and cold hoses from washer.
I took off the top control by undoing the 2 screws in front and then the two screws on the back plastic latches. Mover it forware and took off the 2 screws on the bottom of the back which came up and off easily. Undid the two screws holding the Water valve to the back and undid the water outlet tube and the wireing. Replaced with new valve and reattached tubing and wires. Screwed back on and reattached controls.
Actually was very easy even without repair manual to the washing machine.

Put the machine on its side. Remove old hoses and screw new ones into place. Done in under 20 minutes.

I had a little difficulty at first, trying to remove the back of the unit. I then figured out that the repair was to be made by leaning the washer back and removing it from underneath. That became really easy as the bottom is open.I had to remove one nut and then the agitator from inside, then tilt the machine back, disconnect the two hoses from the pump, remove three bolts and lower the motor/ transmission assembly. Then I had to disconnect the motor from the pump ( with two snap on clips) and remove the broken plastic coupling. The new coupling had a metal insert that seems to make it stronger than the original piece.I then just reversed the procedure to put it together again and it worked fine. The part was shipped immediately and I got it sooner than I expected so I greatly appreciate that. Overall it went well, and by the way, it was my daughters washer and she was happy as well.Thanks, Roger

Read the directions in the repair kit first- a 7/16" socket and 10" extension is needed. Assembled new dogs on agitator "cup" and retainer, added marine(waterproof) grease to assembly washer, replaced bolt anyway and installed new o ring. Took less than 15 minutes-READ ALL DIRECTIONS FIRST!