Models > KAWS677EQ0 > Instructions

KAWS677EQ0 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for KAWS677EQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KAWS677EQ0
1,606-1,620 of 1,669
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Washer vibrating when in spin cycle.

  • Customer: Calvin from Cheney WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced suspension, leveling and tub springs.

Loud bang at the end of the spin cycle and symptoms of an unbalanced load.

  • Customer: mark from murfreesboro TN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
After reading everyone elses stories, I purchased all new springs(5), new spring brackets(one of mine was rusted really badly)and all new wear pads(two sets of 3pcs each). The rusted spring bracket was the most time consuming as the screw was rusted into the bracked so I had to drill it out. Other than that, the actual spring replacement was easy. Took maybe 10 minutes. The wear pads were another story. I'm a pretty good mechanic and I had a bit of a struggle getting the old pads out. I used a long, flat head screwdriver to pry them out. Once they were out the new ones weren't too tough to get back in. Took about 20 minutes all together. I stongly recommend watching the video on removing the washer cabinet first. It will save you some time. Acutally, watch the videos on all of the parts to simplify the process. Oh and by the way, all of my washer problems are gone. Well worth my time and $70 in parts. Good web site!

Drum moves and strange noise when spinning

  • Customer: Kenneth from Hillsborough NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
When I pulled the machine out, I noticed one of the suspension springs on the floor. I followed the video supplied by PartSelect.com and suggestions by other folks. I started with the spring that was missing, which was a mistake since I did not know that there are custom spring clips which hold the spring to the drum. Once I found the missing part the installation was very easy. I used the suggestion by another post, of wedging a block of wood between the back of the machine and drum, to relax the rear suspension spring, which eliminated having to remove the back of the machine or tipping the machine on the back to get at the screw. I will always look to PartSelect.com for any future appliance repairs. You are the greatest

Tub was slamming side of tub during spin cycle and getting all out of balance

  • Customer: Steven Arthur from Tifton GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Took the cabinet apart really easily with Part Selects helpful video. Removed old suspension springs by removing outer brackets on two of them and by using pliers on the third one. The tub spring was totally missing. Put on two new brackets and springs with the nut driver. Then stretched the third spring into place. Replaced the tub spring by stretching into place and then put cabinet back together. All done very quickly!!! Now it works perfectly and runs very quietly.

Machine wobbled during spin cycle. Appeared to have some loosened part in the rear of the machine (noted some flexing on the front of the cabinet during spin).

  • Customer: Jonathan from Brandon VT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected electrical and then water inputs on the rear of the cabinet. Tipped the machine onto its front. Found that a spring was unhooked and dangling from a bracket. I searched for the location to secure the spring and found a hole on the rear base of the cabinet rusted through. I drilled another mounting hole nearby, Since the original spring had also broke, I replaced it with a new one from PartSelect, securing it between its bracket and the new retaining hole. Returned the machine to its upright position, reconnected water input lines, then its electrical. The machine works fine once again.

Washer shook in the SPIN cycle.

  • Customer: Mark from Dagsboro DE
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Follow the video to remove the cabinet. Did NOT have to lay the unit on its back in order to replace all 5 springs. These may be easily replaced with the washer standing upright. The back Suspension Spring was removed by using the access hole in the back of the washer to remove the screw holding the back spring bracket in place. Reassembled the cabinet per the video. Except for moving the washer around, this was an extremely easy repair. To facilitate moving the washer - use Moving PADS placed under the 4 feet of the washer.

Out of balance, could't operate

  • Customer: Arlyn from Driggs ID
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
The prooblem started with the hole in the bottom frame, for tub spring wore through, spring fell off, then a spring retainer worn broke in 2 releasing 1 suspention spring. All springs were about to fail, metal very thin at at the contact points. Drilled a new hole for the new suspension spring, replace all 3 brackets, worn also, springs, and retainers with a small dab of grease at the contact points. The new springs mad the tub more stable than before the failure, and silent when spinning or washing. Be careful to get the springs in the right direction, then the spring comes over the outside the brackets and retainers, other way they rub in spots. On this machine one was backwards from the factory 18 years ago, surely that accounts for more stable running.

Washer vibrated during the spin cycle

  • Customer: David from Roswell GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
The repair took about an hour. My wife told me the washer was so quite that she had to check and make sure it was running. It was like getting a new washer for less than 30 dollars. I've saved Part Select web site to my favorites and will use your company again.

when it would spin it would sheakall over .

  • Customer: Johnny from Las Cruces NM
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
just did it how the way it showed on the video it was easy

did not spin all the water out of clothes (clutch was slipping)

  • Customer: donald from alexander NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
followed repair instruction,( bought on line and down loaded ) some instructions were unclear but when you have the machine apart its obvious. your parts breakdown helped more than the instructions once the cabinet was opened.

drum wouldn't empty, washer stuck at that point in cycle

  • Customer: Steven from Chapel Hill NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Looked on line at Parts Select, and noted there was 66% chance that problem was in lid switch. Stuck screw driver in slot under lid, pushed on switch and made washer work, verifying that problem was likely in switch. Ordered part. Disconnected washer from electric/water. Removed screws on back and sides of panel; lifted lid and cover; replaced switch; reinstalled cover. Reconnected to elec/water. Worked. No problema.

Hanger on motor broke and destroyed the coupling

  • Customer: Andre from Torrance CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Turned machine on it’s back after removing the hose that goes to the drain, removed the bottom dust guard, I removed the hoses (take a picture before removing things so you know how to orient them when putting it back together) and drained the water first but this is not necessary (there are YouTube videos where they suggest removing the outer case, unclipping the pump and then removing the motor. This would be optimal as you don't need to deal with the water running out of the washer when you remove the hoses). Removed the 4 electrical connectors (multi-plug, 1 x two prong plug and 2 capacitor connector plugs) One of the motor hangers were broken on my machine, I removed the other one and then slipped the motor out. Removed the broken hanger and securing screws and the old rubber grommets, slipped the coupling out (had to leverage out with a large flat screwdriver). Installed new coupling and rubber on the gearbox side, 4 grommets on the motor and the other coupling on the motor. Inserted the hangers on the gearbox side and then mounted the motor. (it is easier if you turn the washer on its back so the drum moves down and gives you more room to drop the motor in from the top), clipped the motor hangers on and fastened the two metal screws, mounted the pump and hoses and reinstalled the dust guard. Turned it right side up and tested before dragging it back into the laundry. Washing again like it did when first bought it in 1998. I would recommend that when a coupling brakes, replace it as well as the hangers and grommets to make sure it has no room for play. Mine broke way too quick as I did the last coupling about a year ago, problem I think was that I had the wrong grommets causing excessive vibration and wear.

Out of balance on spin cycles

  • Customer: Darren from Saint Jacob IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the top part of the electronic panel. Removed the top lid. Removed the old tub springs and replaced them with new ones. Works great and for only $20.00. It beats buying a new washer. Thanks!

Washer quit agitating and spinning then after replacing the motor coupling it kept filling

  • Customer: Nathanial from Princeton MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
This is the first time I've ever fixed anything. I had no idea what I was doing but like the rest of you I decided to man up and get er done myself! I also didn't want to spend 200-300 bucks on a repair guy. So using this site and google. I figured out how to remove the back plate of my washer so I could correctly diagnose the problem...in fact I didnt' even have too remove the back plate to diagnose it because when I started to move the washer I found several broken plastic triangular pieces and a round rubber piece with 6 triangular holes in it. On one of the broken pieces was a serial number of some sort. So I googled what i found and matched what i found on underneath my machine with a part i found on this website which turned out to be the direct drive motor coupling...i figured i was in for a rough battle with the machine but it actually turned out to be pretty easy...in fact it would've been easier had this machine not been serviced before in the past...(i'll get to that later) first step was to remove the back plate...using youtube i figured out how to remove the metal clamps that hold the cabinet to the back plate (you will need a flat head screw driver). Rest was elementary it took me about 2 minutes to remove the back plate after spending probably 30 minutes of research online (i like to make sure i'm doing everything correctly so i watch several videos and do a ton of reading before i mess with anything)*also a side note make sure you unplug the machine before you do anything! Also turn off the water and remove the draining tubes from the back of the machine because you will need to tilt the whole thing on its back failure to do this will result in a watery mess and u could kink the drain tube which will lengthen your repair time like it did with me. Also remove the hot and cold water tubes from teh back...remember that the hot water is always on the bottom memorize where you put the tubes...u can always check which is which by turning the water back on but it will save you sometime* once i got the back plate off i tilted the machine on its back so i could get to the motor and the water pump...there are 2 metal clamps that hold the water pump to the motor. All it takes is a flat head screw driver to remove these clamps once you get the 2 clamps off you can lift the water pump right off the motor its really easy. This exposes the motor which houses the direct drive motor coupling. I inspected what was left of the coupling and if there was any doubt that it was the motor coupling there wasn't anymore because it was clearly broken and the rubber piece that was supposed to sit between the 2 plastic things was gone. Needless to say it was a mess and i knew it was gonna be a challenge to remove the broken coupling. It was surprisingly easy to remove the coupling from the top of the motor compared to the middle of it. There are 2 more metal clamps that fasten the motor in place so it doesn't move around...there are 2 screws that hold these clamps in place. I removed one of them with no problem but the other one was stripped extremely bad i was completely unable to remove it. If you are in this bad boat like i was in i have a solution for you...you only need to remove one screw if you can grab the motor and rotate it enough u can remove the clamp from the metal plate without ever having to remove the clamp at all...its a little difficult and you will have to use a bit of elbow grease to do it but it can be done. Once i achieved this it was a lot easier to access the broken coupling from the middle of the motor. I took the back end of a hammer and evenly jiggled the coupling loose until it popped off...it took a solid 10 minutes tho since the coupling had shattered so bad there wasn't much for the hammer to hold onto. Once i did this i was able to get the new pieces in place...it was a little tricky to line things up correctly but after awhile i was able to get it to fit perfectly...I put the machine back

Did Not Adgitate

  • Customer: Moses A from Brooklyn NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the video step by step and than it became easy
All Instructions for the KAWS677EQ0
1,606-1,620 of 1,669