KAWE577BWH0 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

I unsnapped the top of the mechanism and removed the agitor assembly, (I had already put together the new one,) I just had to unsrew the old one to get it out and screw in the new one. This took me less than 10 minutes from start to finish. My husband was away for the week and this was left up to me if I wanted it done. So I (a female) decided that I would attempt it.
A Piece of Cake. thanks to Parts Select, I have a few more years with this machine. I was really hating to purchase a new machine. So for less than $25.00 with no service call "I Fixed It!"

Laid washer on front side and removed top spring, then lifted the tub assembly to replace the right side spring, the one behind the motor was the hardest, I lifted the tub then removed the spring bracket at the tub with pliers and a socket. The top seal all I had to do was take the 4 screws that hold the top on (it takes a long extension) then sit it bak up and I lifted the top up to give me enough room to unsnap the top piece of the tub, cleaned it up put seal in. The parts fit perfitlt and real fast shipping, I bookmarked the site and will buy from again. JIM

Removed top cap on agitator w/ flathead screwdriver. Removed protective cap over bolt and cog housing shaft. Used 7/16 deep socket w/ extension to remove bolt. Removed housing where stripped cogs were located. Cogs seated loosely in shaft housing no tools required to remove cogs. Replaced cogs in housing, made sure everything was lined correctly. re-inserted housing into shaft. ,screwed bolt, replaced caps and works like new.

I removed the screws holding the control unit down, removed a couple at the rear,
Disconnected the electrical clip that plugs into the top, under the control unit.
This allows enough slack to pivot it ( the control unit) upside down and get it out of the way enough to remove the spring clips that hold the top to the back.
Popped out the two clips that hold the back to the top.
Pulled the back out, up until the plastic soap dispenser , (which is attached to the back) hits under the lip of the top.
This does not allow enough room to get to the valves.
I finally figured out you have to lift the entire top up high enough to clear the back while pulling it ( the back) out.
Disconnected the hose clamp, electric connectors, installed the new valves into the supplied mounting plate replaced the valves .
Re -connected the hose and electric connectors and re assembled the back.
The only problem I had was when one of the spring retainers that hold the back to the top popped off and fell inside the unit, which forced me to remove everything including the back bottom screws, which caused the sides to pop off, the mounting ears , which are attached to the back,
Took some finesse but finally retrieved the spring clamp and finished everything back together.
It was a bit tricky keeping the plastic gaskets between the back and the sides from falling inside as I reassembled it.
But all is well, and would have been more difficult without the expierence written by others who posted, on the site.
Thank you to all, for the help.
I hope my efforts will help someone else.

turned the washer on it's back and shoved the tub to the side to release pressure on a spring ,pulled it loose and installed new one. this worked for the back two then turned washer on it;s face and repeted the process on the front spring.
Washer works great now.

1. Unplug the machine.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outlet drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.

I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.

After disconnecting the electrical supply, first remove the two screws at either end of the control panel and fold it back away from the washer top. Then, unplug the electrical lid switch connection. Now, remove the two clips at either end on top to disconnect the housing from the washer back and chassis. The motor is sandwiched between the water pump in the front and transmission at the rear. The Direct Drive Coupling connects the rear motor shaft to the transmisson. After you have taken the outter portion of the washer off, remove the two snap clips that hold the water pump in place and slide the pump off the front shaft. Best to also disconnect the upper hose connection so the pump can be moved out of the way. Caution though, remaining water in tub will drain out. Now remove the two screws that hold the clips in place which secure the motor to the transmission. Careful, as the old Direct Drive Coupling is probably destroyed, the clips are the only thing holding the motor in place and the motor needs to be supported so it won't drop to floor when the clips are removed. Be careful not to lose the four rubber grommets which sit between the motor and transmission bracket. After motor is on floor remove the old plastic slip-on direct drive coupling discs from both the motor and transmission shafts. The new replacement discs have steel centers which do not slide onto the shafts as easily as the old plastic ones did. I had to tap the center steel portion onto the shafts using a hammer and a deep wall socket the same width as the steel portion of the disc. Be careful! I'm sure that tapping the plastic portion of the disc to properly seat it on the shaft will break it away from the steel portion. In my case, It took me several attempts to completely seat the new discs. I had to do quite a bit of tapping to get the discs seated far enough onto the shafts so that the motor slipped easily against the transmission bracket grommets and the retainer clips snapped back into place easily. Reassembly is simply reversing the steps you took when taking the unit apart. Before putting the outter housing back in place, I checked to make sure everything was running smoothly by jumping out the electrical snap-in connection for the lid switch and running the machine in the spin cycle. Remember, if you don't jump out the lid switch and just try to test the unit in the aggitate cycle, the machine has to first fill with water.

1. Removed the softener dispenser
2. Removed the cap covering the clutch dogs and the bolt holding it all in place.
3. Removed the bolt holding the two agitator pieces and the clutch dogs together.
4. Removed the two agitator parts.
5. Replaced the clutch dogs.
6. Reassembled and put the bolt back in place.
7. Replaced the gasket on the cover that goes over the clutch and bolt.
8. Replaced the softener dispenser

Very easy!

Heard about the website... 1 minute to find it, 10 minutes to order new cogs... 3 day wait for new parts... Rec'd Fedex, 15 minutes total to pull the agitator cover (bleach dispenser) then the bung cover with o-ring (just lift out) expose bolt, unskrew and remove top portion of agitator or entire agitator if it's easier. Seperate, remove black cog holder (slides up the spindle) and replace cogs one at a time just like the old ones. Reassemble in reverse and you are back in business. Saved the $75 deductible on my home appliance warrenty. You guys are the best... cheers...

Removed agitator cap. Removed bolt inside with socket wrench. Located plastic cogs Pulled out old cogs and slid in new cogs and put back together and works great. Easy to take apart and put back together. Very cheap repair. Cogs less that $4.00 plus shipping. Shipped next working day.

took off two screws that held the top part on took the screws that held the back on 4 screws removed the one screw that held the replacement valve put the black mounting plate on the machine replaced screws very simple.

Remove the nut from the top of the motor shift inside of wsher. then remove the wire harness plug. Take out three bolts side the shaft and motor out. Replace clutch and install in reverse order.

Removed old part; exchanged rubber plungers between the hot and cold. Symptoms still the same - so eliminated the need for new rubber plungers (even though they still needed to be replaced). The only item left were the magnetic switches opening and closing the flows. The syphon was replaced due to broken plastic mountings causing the syphon to hang into the drum. Repair was a snap and finding the parts on your site was very easy and parts were there within 2 days at standard shipping. Thank you.

First I removed hose from drain, next I loosened the clamp at the drain hose connection at the washer. Removed hose. Have rags/towels as there is some residual water that will spill out of the washer. Reinstall in reverse.