KAWE460WAL3 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

Removed the fabric softner dispenser, used a 7/16 socket with ratchet to remove the bolt, pulled up on the Lower Agitator. Placed on floor, put foot on each side pulled up on the Upper Agitator tossed away. Cleaned the lower agitator at top reached in with a pair pliers removed the two little tits. Replaced the parts as per instructions with parts. Wished they had included the grease as part of the kit, i just used some white grease it reples water and good for friction. My kit did not have a new bolt in it.

Disconnected electrical and then water inputs on the rear of the cabinet. Tipped the machine onto its front. Found that a spring was unhooked and dangling from a bracket. I searched for the location to secure the spring and found a hole on the rear base of the cabinet rusted through. I drilled another mounting hole nearby, Since the original spring had also broke, I replaced it with a new one from PartSelect, securing it between its bracket and the new retaining hole. Returned the machine to its upright position, reconnected water input lines, then its electrical. The machine works fine once again.

Watched the video, then did it.

I watched the video to get a good idea of the procedure. I followed the instructions to remove the cabinet but kept the washer upright on its base. I left the water feed hoses attached to the wall spigots, but turned them off. The pump was rusted onto the motor shaft so I left it there. I unhooked the pump hoses from the pump so I could remove the pump and motor as a unit. The plastic coupling ends pulled off the motor and gearbox shafts easily. The new coupling ends have metal inserts which are a tight fit on the gearbox and motor shafts. To maintain the original alignment it's important to drive them fully into place. I greased the shafts then tapped the coupling ends on with a hammer and drift. The drift was a metal tube, inside diameter slightly larger than the shafts, but small enough to bear on the metal inserts, not on the plastic. My diagnosis was wrong - the original coupling was in good condition, but the clutch had failed.

Looked at the video instructions on the web site, then noticed my model was slightly different. Switched to YouTube. Searched "Water Inlet Valve Replacement Whirlpool Washer". The repair was faster than advertised (40 minutes total). Less time than waiting for a repair person... Very good delivery service from Part Select. Will buy again!

Easy, If your drive block has an open top, it's worn. Look at a picture of a new drive block and compare. If it doesn't match, then you need a new drive block. Note: Also check the drive clutch and clutch liners or pads...they may be worn. In my case it was the drive block this time. So to start, take off the fabric softenner dispenser in the center of the washer. Then pull out the seal. then remove the bolt. and pull off the agitator assembly. after that tap off the lock nut with a punch and hammer or if you have the special spanner wrench tool, use that. Once removed, pull out the inner tub and then pull the drive block off the shaft. Put the new drive block on and reverse the procedure from there. Tap the lock nut tight with the punch and hammer while re-installing. I'm so glad I did this repair. $15 is so much better than just giving in and buying a new washer!!!

To do the repair at first it looked daunting. Dont get flustered! I started by taking off the control top from the washer by unscrewing two screws in the back corners and sliding it forward so it comes loose from a recess it rides in. Then I took the agitator assembly off to gain access to the agitator bolt because it need to come off to give access to the clutch assembly. To take cabinet off just pull back as if youre trying to tip washer towards you and it will come off easily. Now lay the washer on its back.The motor is right in the middle and held by two bolts. Take them off the clamps but make sure you are holding the motor when taking off the second clamp as the motor is a little heavy and can cause it to fall. Once the motor is out of the way you can take the clutch assembly off by unscrewing it from the gearcase. I believe it was three bolts. You can now slide off the agitator and cluch assembly off the transmission gearcase. Now you can slip off the retaining ring that holds the clutch in place then you slide it off and put new clutch assembly in place and reverse the installation. Put the gearcase back in and before putting back motor you can put the drive motor coupling in place on the trasmission end. Put the rubber coupling with the opening at 12 oclock position and put the other coupling on the motor with the coupling plastic tab at the twelve oclock position so when putting it together to the transmission gear case it will marry itself with the other half. Tighten up all bolts, check that all hoses are tight and make sure you reconnect motor. Now stand up the washer and the water inlet valve is at the rear of the cabinet. Its held in place by a bolt and the new one fits exactly as the old one. Pay close attention to the cold and hot side. The wiring is usually marked by writing or color coded wires, red for hot and blue for cold. Now llift the washer cabinet and slide the bottom front section first and over the tub and towards the back. The agitator kit has easy to follow instructions so I will save you that step.Now put everything back together and take it for a spin. It seems very difficult but its not. It took me 2 hours or so to do but a lot had to do because I was in a very constrictive basement and there was no room to work. The cabinet took me at least 35 minutes to put on because I just needed that extra inch of tilt so it can catch or be taken off. But now that everything is put back together this machine is better than brand new. No noise from it at all and clothes come out super clean. I guess it had that problem for a while and for the measly 60 buck I spent on parts to me its a win win situation. Good luck on your DIY repairs and I have to say if you do get stuck their videos really help! I have all the family asking to repair their appliances now so I have to find a place to hide!

Fairly simple just had to take off agitator top. Unscrew a plastic bolt using a 1/2 socket extension. Pull that part or which had a spring under it take out agitator hold which your old ones probably have broken off from take them replace with new ones and put every thing back reverse order. .

It's pretty easy all I had the news just pop off the, frabric softner container, but the small plastic cap could not be pulled out by hand or neddle nose plyers. I used a hex key to hook under the plastic loops and gripped the other end with vice gripps. After the plastic cap came off I used a socket wrench to remove the one bolt and this only came out very easy. Then remove the small cylinder and had a directional COGS and it was easy to replace and reassemble

Removed housing from washer to gain access to bad water inlet valve, removed old inlet valve, installed new valve using your instruction video and now the washer I bought back in 1994 works like new. Thanks PartSelect for your great service and FAST DELIVERY of part.

Best to use the video on PartSelect rather than the printed instructions that come with the kit.

Took back of washing machine off and put the part on.Easy

Leaned the washer back to get at the bottom, removed the water holes, removed the water pump, removed the motor, replaced the direct drive motor coupling. Put it back together and it's all good. No clutch or drive problems. Simple fix.

followed the tutorial from partselect--remove fabric softener dispenser(just pull up) remove bolt from agitator and take it off agitator--remove old parts and replace with new ones--reassemble---done.--- took longer to write this almost. Probably saved me 100 dollars. Almost anyone could do this repair if you can read and watch a video.

I generally followed the video. Disconnected the water hoses, removed the front, laid the washer on its back. My water pump is rusted onto the motor shaft so I left it in place. I removed the water pipes from the pump then removed the pump/motor/gearbox as one unit. Watch out for more water than you think being released from the pipes and pump!! Everything works well with the new clutch fitted.