JVM1790SK01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

This is an above the range microwave, use 2 people to remove it. I set it on a table and removed the outer cabinet. I then used jumper leads to discharge the capacitor. I removed the control panel (taking a picture to ensure proper wiring on assembly), then I removed the latch board. Once I had the latch board out I removed the monitor switch (which is the middle switch) and tested it for continuity. This is a normally closed switch. I tested the other two switches as well and found these (normally open) switches for continuity to be good and the monitor switch to have a short. This switch should show continuity when the door is open and should show no resistance when the door is closed. (Take care removing the switches) After I received the parts I installed them in the new Locker Holder and installed the latch board (ensure to follow the latch board adjustment steps located in the control board). I then attached the wiring to the control board and then plugged in the unit. I tested the unit to ensure it functioned correctly. I then installed the outer cabinet, and then installed the unit above the range (Use 2 people for this process). Overall an easy fix you just need to ensure you follow safety procedures (especially when dealing with capacitors.
Take a lot of pictures of the wiring and of the components and take care with the latch board or you'll have to buy a new one when all you really needed is a monitor switch.

I was preheating this oven when it suddenly shut down and had no power. After checking breakers and finding that there was power to the outlet, I purchased a ceramic fuse and replaced that. It didn't help. Then I ordered part #PS2339856 THERMOSTAT(PLATE) and we replaced that (the old one tested bad), but the oven still would not power on. Those were the quick and easy potential fixes that only involved removing a couple of front panels.

My husband is a retired electrician, so I trusted him to work on this. After doing quite a bit of research, we learned that there is yet another thermostat deep in the bowels of the machine that apparently prevents the oven from overheating. That seemed to fit the situation, because the oven was very hot when it shut down.

We took the oven down (mounted over the range and very heavy!) and opened it up. Using PartSelect's very helpful diagrams (In this case "Interior Parts 2") we located and removed the part labeled "27," which is #PS1016683 THERMOSTAT. The old one tested bad, so I ordered a new one.

Lo and behold, it worked! This is a very expensive oven -- in the range of $600 -- so I'm very pleased that this $20 part and several hours of research and work were able to repair it.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

Using a phillips screwdriver I opened the panel in which the two lamps are located and easily removed the lamps. I ordered them through the internet and was pleasantly surprised when I received them the next day.

Replaced all 3 switches and Holder for all 3 switches. All is working great now.

Disassembly control panel and remove switch holder; test for micro switches for continuity. Holder had broken post on micro switch holder.

When removing a non-working door switch, you will see a hooked piece of plastic on the holder locker that looks like a latch. If you try to pull it back in order to either remove the bad switch or install a good one, it will likely break. Instead, you need to pivot the switch (It pivots on a little post which is fitted into a hole at the corner of the switch) out of position so that it is not held back by the 'latch'. Then lift the switch out. If you have to use lots of force anything, you're doing something wrong. Reverse all this when installing the new switch.

The first holder locker was shipped in a soft envelope and was damaged in shipping. I ordered a second holder locker with instructions to ship in a hard container and mentioned what happened to the first holder locker. The second holder locker was shipped also in a soft envelope and was received damaged.

I notified customer service and have yet to receive a response.

I now have the part on order with a local company.
Kenneth Files
(831) 688-0740

Removed two Phillips screws removed old cover installed new cover secured screws. Easy Peezy
Parts select made it really easy

A 2 yr old could do this snap out. Snap in less then. 30 seconds . What a shame and rip off on appliance repair shops - I called to do this rediculsley 40 second job and the wantvv$125.00!9t more. Omg. I’m a senior/ no wonder God punished the world wit Covid 19! Too many nasty infair. Buii I needed and rip offs.

Had to use a screw driver to remove the cover to replace the bulb. Worked great and your service was great. Probably didn't take more than 5 minutes.

Remove 1 screw, remove light bulb and replace and replace screw. No problem.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

Part arrived next day! Thank you Parts Select. Holder bracket on older GE microwave was broken so MW would not start because door latch did not activate door switch. Removed front panel unplugged all the wiring (after I had taken a picture) to gain access to the holder bracket. Unplugged the three door switches. Removed two screws that held the holder bracket. Installed three new door switches into the new holder bracket. Positioned the bracket behind the frame and screwed back in the two screws. Snapped in this seven wire attachments, set the control panel back in the microwave and secured it with two screws. I only needed one screwdriver and one needle nose plier to remove the wire attachment from a door switch which made it easier to remove. 40 minutes.

The Halogen Light Bulbs for lighting the area below the microwave seemed to be burned out. I order new bulbs but by the time they arrived the old bulbs appeared to be working again. Not sure why this happened but I have new bulbs if they become burned out for good at some point.