JVM1339BW02 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

removed electrical wires, unscrewed holder, inserted holder, attached wires, added bulb, and put cover back on.

The repair was relatively ease. I have to tell you that what helped me the most was reading the experiences others had had. The repair took me qabout 7 minutes. Simply take a puddy knife and carefully take out the ring around the glass on the indide of the door. Once removed you will see the botoom screw. The upper screw is very visible. Remove the two screws and replace....its that ease.

There was one screw on top that was easily accessable, but the lower one is hidden. I first removed the door seal that goes around the outside of the door but, that didn't expose the screw. On the inside of the door there is a seal just for the glass window. I used a butter knife to open just a section of it and it immediately exposed the screw that I needed to remove.

I used the internet and your directions to complete the repair. It was easy!

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

GE slate microwave approximately 2 years old. Completely dead. Power to outlet was good, no gfci was tripped. Started checking fuses, 250v ceramic fuse good, two fuses at the bottom behind the control panel. One on the left labeled 12 on the diagram tested no continuity. One on the right labeled 13 tested good with continuity. So i figured number 12 was bad. Got the part and turns out to be the wrong fuse. Part number was the same but the terminals were the wrong size. Im pretty sure GE has the diagram labeled wrong because i ordered number 13 and it was the right size. Just an FYI if you are ordering those fuses for your microwave that 12 and 13 on the diagram may be reversed. Anyway received the right fuse and tested the new fuse and it tests open continuity and did not fix my issue. Microwave is still dead. There are two other fuses in the back that i need to check so hopefully i find the issue. Hope this helps someone, remember one fuse behind the control panel tests open and the other tests closed and thats how it is suppose to function.

Remove top air grate via 2-screws. Remove metal top panel behind grate that's above bulb via 1-screw. Bulb is exposed and can be un-screwed. DONE

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

Placed the screws in the proper areas, used the screw driver to tighten down and I was in business with light to spare. I am happy to have found the proper screws.
Thank you.

The Parts select diagram and order ing process made it very easy to complete my repair job. After receiving my parts, I unscrewed the screws with a phillips driver. Then I popped out the handle. There is one tricky part - the screw is a bit too small for the existing whole and so I added a washer to fix this problem. I then slide in the new handle. Very easy!

Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.

Turned the power to the unit off. Removed seven- (7) small screws from the base plate, not removing the rear screws. The plate dropped a few inches allowing me to get to the light socket. I removed one- (1) screw that allowed the socket to be removed. I then detached the two- (2) electrical leads. I now installed the new socket, replacing the leads and the screw along with a new bulb. I pushed the bottom plate back into the up position and replaced the seven- (7) screws. Turned the power back on and we were good to go.

.Thank You Dan

Did as describe by others who had replaced the handle.
Remove the inside trim (carefully) to get access to screws that we holding the remaining handle pieces.
Attach the handle with the exist screws, replace the trim. Done in about 5 minutes.

I first pulled the bottom left and left side inner 3/8th inch rounded liner out. Use a thin flat head screw driver to gently pry the inner trim piece out of place. This exposed the bottom screw. I pulled out the old 1/2 inch silver coarse thread screw. The top screw is obvious. Removed that. I had to replace the face plate which slid off. Replaced the new face plate then put in the new handle top male end then the bottom male end in the holes. I screwed in the top 1.5 inch browm fine thread screw. Don't over tighten, just go until snug. If you over tighten you may crack the plastic walls of the screw hole built into the handle. I then put the small screw in and tightened it. Then snap the trim piece back in place. Viola.......You are done