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JP385WD1WW
JP385WD1WW General Electric Cooktop - Overview
Sections of the JP385WD1WW
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Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
PartSelect #: PS242972
Manufacturer #: WB2X8228
Also known as receptacle.
$31.61
In Stock
Surface Element - 8 Inch - 2350W
PartSelect #: PS243868
Manufacturer #: WB30M2
The surface element, also known as the coil surface element, transfers heat to the area on top of range. The element is 8 inches in diameter. If your surface element does not heat, over heats, or heat...
$61.79
In Stock
Surface Element - 6 Inch - 240V
PartSelect #: PS243867
Manufacturer #: WB30M1
If you notice that your surface element will not heat properly, you may need to replace it. This surface element is 6 inches in diameter and 240V. It is a Y-frame surface burner element with five turn...
$57.41
In Stock
Terminal Block
PartSelect #: PS232646
Manufacturer #: WB17X5113
This kit includes one ceramic block with 6" wire leads, 2 wire nuts and 2 heat shrink with mounting bracket.
$38.38
In Stock
Grease Filter
PartSelect #: PS243130
Manufacturer #: WB2X8422
Used with a 30" range hood. Sold individually.
No Longer Available
Knob
PartSelect #: PS226815
Manufacturer #: WB03X10091
This white knob is sold individually and accepts a D-shaped shaft.
$12.97
Special Order
Center Piece - 8 Inch Burner
PartSelect #: PS244823
Manufacturer #: WB32X51
This part it is used to cover the center of the coil burner. Sold
individually.
No Longer Available
Infinite Burner Switch
PartSelect #: PS236434
Manufacturer #: WB23X10009
Sold Individually. Order quantity required.
No Longer Available
Questions And Answers for JP385WD1WW
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Common Symptoms of the JP385WD1WW
[Viewing 3 of 3]Element will not heat
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The Bake-o-lite (Hard Plastic) block that holds the burners female connection in place had chipped away over time and wouldn't allow the male part of the burner to connect up correctly.
After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black elec
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trical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes
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Parts Used:
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Robert from Mt. Vernon, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
112 of 114 people
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Replacement of Coils
Removed by slightly wiggling out of the coupling. No tools needed, seriously, (and I'm a contractor). Basically, pull out and snap back in.
Parts Used:
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Joseph from South Plainfield, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Heating element required continuous adjustments to work.
I removed old 8" surface element and terminal block. Some of old wiring had to be cut off because of harding/cracking of old wiring. Stove was 23 years old and this burner was the most frequently used one. I soldered the new and remaining old wires together. I used the shirnk wrap that came with the terminal block to cover the solder join
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t. I screwed the new terminal block (one screw holds it in place - used same screw from old terminal block that was removed). I finished by inserting the new surface element. Everything works fine. In the next week or two after we use it a while, I will check wiring again to make sure there are no changes. You need to be very careful as it gets very hot under the burner.
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Parts Used:
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Richard from Apex, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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