JP385BD1BB General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black electrical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes

Removed by slightly wiggling out of the coupling. No tools needed, seriously, (and I'm a contractor). Basically, pull out and snap back in.

I removed old 8" surface element and terminal block. Some of old wiring had to be cut off because of harding/cracking of old wiring. Stove was 23 years old and this burner was the most frequently used one. I soldered the new and remaining old wires together. I used the shirnk wrap that came with the terminal block to cover the solder joint. I screwed the new terminal block (one screw holds it in place - used same screw from old terminal block that was removed). I finished by inserting the new surface element. Everything works fine. In the next week or two after we use it a while, I will check wiring again to make sure there are no changes. You need to be very careful as it gets very hot under the burner.

***** Unplug the stove *****
1. Removed all knobs, including knobs for other elements and exhaust fan. Because there was years of oil build-up, I used a screwdriver to gently pry off the knobs from the shaft.
2. Remove lock nut from all switches using pliers to first loosen the nuts. Once loosened, I used my fingers to remove the nuts.
3. Remove the rubber gaskets from the element switches, NOT the exhaust fan switch. The exhaust knob gasket is part of the larger glass cover-plate gasket.
4. Remove the glass cover plate to expose the switches. There were two phillips screws to secure the switch plate to the electrical box. Took those off to access the switch.
5. Made a quick sketch of the electrical connections.
6. Removed the damaged switch and the electrical connections.
7. Connected electrical wires to new switch and installed new switch.
8. Took the opportunity to thoroughly clean the glass cover plate and gaskets.
9. Screwed the switch plate back onto the electrical box.
10. Put back glass plate and reinserted the knob gaskets.
11. Put back the lock nuts. Used fingers to tighten then used pliers to give it another quarter turn, making sure not to over tighten.
12. Replaced knobs.
13. Plugged in stove and tested.
Start to finish, it took about 15-20 minutes (mostly due to the cleaning).

You have to replace the switch if the shaft breaks (I think we hit it with a pot). This is a flat glass cook top. Turn off the power at the breaker box. I took the drawers out below the cook top and loosened the bracket holding the electrical conduit. That allowed me to push up the cook top from below. There is some adhesive but nothing hold it except its own weight and the adhesive. You do not need to disconnect the conduit. Remove all of the knobs. Remove all of the Phillips screws around the upper perimeter. Do not remove any of the hex screws yet. When all of the screws are removed, lift the glass cook top off of the metal "guts." At this point there will only be adhesive holding it on. Now remove two hex screws at each end of the control strip. Remove the two Phillips screws from the subject switch. Lift up the the control strip, disconnect the electric leads to the switch, reconnect the leads to the new switch, and then re-attach the new switch to the control strip with the two Phillips screws. Then go backwards. Replace the control strip and secure with the two hex screws at each end. Before replacing the cook top, check the burners. They rest on posts with small springs designed to keep them flush with the glass cook top. Make sure that all of the burners are properly aligned on their posts and springs. Replace the cook top and re-attach with all of the Phillips screws. Return the cook top to its resting place making sure the adhesive strips are correctly placed around the perimeter. Replace the bracket on the conduit. Put the knobs back on. Flip the breaker back on and start cooking.

First I unplugged the stove, then lifted the stovetop, then took off the top panel on the back and disconnected the two wires. Then unscrewed the terminal block and put the new one in its place. Lowered the top inserted the eye and replaced the back panel. Works great!

This is the second time in a few months that I replaced this terminal block, so I made sure the contacts were clean and smooth. I also made sure the contacts were completely inserted in the block.

First thing to do is to KILL THE POWER. The last thing you want is for two leads feeding power to a range coil burner "hot" when you are working on them. After power is off, I removed the coils and set them aside. The terminals had "fried" apparently from to much cooking with hot oils and having the "over splash" working its way down to where the coils plug into the terminals and over time the oil getting in the terminals causes shorting / frying of the leads / contacts.

Anyway, after removing the heat coils I removed the drip pans and cleaned up the area underneath before working on terminals. I like a clean area when I work. I then unscrewed the "brackets" that house the terminals with a Phillips screwdriver and pulled out the assembly.

To completely remove the assembly I cut with a straight razor the existing heat shrink around the wire nuts (These two had been replaced once before. On first go around, I just cut the terminal assembly off and stripped the wire to attach the new terminals). Then I removed the wire nuts and the old assembly. After that I trimmed the wire to the correct length on the new terminal assembly and checked that the wire from the stove was in good shape. Upon confirming I had a good lead, I connected the new terminal leads to the stove leads and put the heat shrink over the connections. I used a lighter to "shrink" the heat shrink to the new connection (not having a proper heat shrink gun, which most of us don't have, the lighter works well as long as you are careful and do not let the lighter heat up to much. Let the lighter cool (esp. if a plastic disposable type or it will melt and ruin the lighter or burn your fingers).

After that I cleaned the area where the terminal block bracket connects to the stove (it gets a bit gunked up over time) before screwing in the new bracket / assembly in place with my screwdriver.

I gave the drip pans a good cleaning, adjusted the new terminal brackets so they were even / centered, cleaned once more the area under the drip pan and replaced the drip pans. The types of pans I have are one piece with a hole for the heat coil leads to go through.

Before placing the coils back in the terminals I took a strip of medium grade, 220 grit, sand paper (you could use steal wool or small wire brush) and cleaned the terminal leads (the steal end that plugs into the terminal only, careful not to damage the burner). This was needed as the leads had accumulated some residue from the same dynamics that caused the burning / melting of the terminal leads and terminal block. Once the leads were clean I fitted them into the place in the new terminal blocks and drip pan grooves.

Finally I turned back on the breaker to the stove and cranked on the burners to test out the connection and that everything was working A-OK.

Job done:-)

Turned off power to cooktop. Disconnected power wires and removed cooktop from counter. Removed screws holding on the cooktop surface. Separated cooktop surface from cooktop. Removed 4 screws holding control panel, then removed 2 screws holding selector switch. Removed 2 wires plugged into selector switch. Installed new selector switch and reassembled cooktop.

Removed the burner coil.
Unscrewed the terminal block.
Pulled out the stove and disconnected the 220 Volt service at the plug.
Removed the back panel at the control knobs.
Detached the wiring to the control knob and pulled thru the back panel.
Wiring mostly visable to the front 8 inch burner.
Replaced wiring and mounted new terminal block.
Tested the burner for a few seconds.
Replaced back panel and set stove in place.
Saved $150 dollar service call.

This appeared to be an easy fix, but turned out to be more involved than I planned. The hard part was pulling the range/microwave oven assembly away from the wall so I could remove the back panel and see how the new terminal block wires connected up to the switch/knob that operates the burner. Extracting the whole range unit required me to use a floor jack to raise the leveling feet of the range above the edge of my floor tile so I could slide the unit out. Once away from the wall, I used a nut driver to remove the back panels. Next surprise was the new terminal block wire connectors were not the same type as the old block's connectors (flat vs. male pin-type). Rather than let the scope of this job creep to include a whole new connector rig, I opted to splice the new terminal block wires onto the existing wires that led up to the control knob. I used professional splices and a crimping tool to secure the wires. After checking the new installation was sound and operational, I slid the whole range back into place. Attaching the new terminal block to the range top was a piece of cake, but getting the damn oven out into open space where I could work on it was bear. But, hey, I learned a few things, one of which is that when a homeowner decides to retile their kitchen, make sure you run the new tiles all the way under the range and not just up to the front edge of the oven. I can see why this was done - to avoid having to remove the oven during the retiling - but it creates an obstacle for whenever the oven needs to be pulled away from its location. The last tool I imagined I would need for this repair was a car jack. The Parts Select part worked fine.

I handed it to my wife and she slipped it in.

Removed old surface burners and replaced them by plugging in the new surface burners. Now they work GREAT! Parts ordered and received with-in 3 business days. Fed EX delivered parts in good order very quickly. We recommend PartSelect.com

I unplugged the burner, lifted the old drip pan out, put new drip pan in, plugged burner in. The stove looks brand new and it took less than 2 minutes.

Removed existing surface element and replaced with new element.

P.S.

Part Select service was excellent.

I just removed the range elements and old bowls, placed the new bowls into the range top, and inserted the heating elements. What surprised me was the quickness in filling the order. I had the new parts the next day! Great!