JMC9158AAS - Instructions

Had to remove door. Next pop off the plastic trim around door. Remove spring holding latch place new latch and afix it to the door frame

Found instruction on internet,
1. Remove anit-tampering screws with punch and hammer
2. Remove the rest of the screws
3. Removed cover
4. Remove burned out bulb and installed new one
5. INstalled cover
6. Installed screws including the anti tampering onces
7. Op tested unit.
Wife is happy.

Problem would come and go. Found service schematic inside unit. Perform all the suggested tests. One possible solution was the primary interlock switch shown on the schematic and a check found the switch stuck. It would free up some times but would stick again in the open position. Ordered switch which was a simple plug in unit.

Make sure to have your model number correct. First tray I purchased I didn't use the model number and just picked what I thought would work (KitchenAid), but didn't. Second attempt I put in the model number and received the correct one. Take out of the box and into the oven, that easy.

1. Removed cabinet screws (10-15?). 2. Removed cabinet. 3. Removed top interlock switch which actually was not defective. The press clip connection appeared as if it had been arcing for quite some time and the corrosion created resistance sufficient to prevent the current from getting through the switch. 4. Replaced switch anyway but broke plastic retaining clip despite every effort not to do so. Reset broken clip with super glue. 5. Reassembled cabinet and appliance is in good working condition.

Watched a couple of repair videos on Youtube by searching for the model number. Found out what to do in order not to get shocked by the powerful capacitor.
Ordered the two switches (To be sure, I could have ordered a third switch as suggested in the videos.)
Bought a tamper-proof star bit to get the cover off. Followed the directions to replace the switches. - I broke the harness and had to use some super glue, but it's all good. I should have removed the harness instead of trying to get a switch out while it was still in place.
It's all back together, and the wife is happy!!

We have a Jenn-Air microwave and oven combination that is installed as a "stack" in a cabinet. The light bulb had burned out, and I read some of the posts on the partselect.com site about how others performed this replacement; ours was a bit different.
To replace the microwave light bulb, we had to remove the entire microwave and oven stack from the cabinet. There were four anchor screws on the sides (two on each side) of the microwave that were driven in perpendicular to the face of the microwave. There were four more screws that were on the sides of the oven that could be accessed once the oven door was open.
With those anchor screws removed, we had to carefully pull the entire microwave / oven stack from the cabinet to reach the top cover of the microwave. We used an old wooden crate to hold the front of the oven and left the back of the oven resting in the cabinet enclosure. This gave enough room to access the screws on the top cover of the microwave, without having to lift the entire stack down to the floor.
At this point, I could unplug the microwave power cord, which was plugged in to a socket built into the top of the conventional oven part of the stack.
The top cover of the microwave was attached with regular Phillips head screws, so those were easy to remove. Several other instructions indicated I would need a torx or star drive screwdriver, but I did not.
Once the screws were removed from the top cover of the microwave, the cover can slide rearward to be removed. However, there are two metal strips that run vertically along the sides of the microwave and at the top of the microwave, these bends over at a right angle over the top of the microwave. The top cover has tabs that sticks up vertically from the cover, so that the bent strips prevents the cover tabs from passing as the cover is slid backwards. The vertical strips have several screws connecting it to the body of the microwave. On one of the vertical strips, I removed the two of these screws closest to the top of the microwave. Then, I gently pushed a wood chisel, because of the bevel angle, between the vertical metal strip and the microwave body. This moved the bent-over portion of the vertical strip far enough away from the microwave that the tab on the top cover cleared the strip, and I could then remove the top cover.
With the top cover removed, I could see the old light bulb. It is attached with a push-in electrical connection that was easily pulled off. One Phillips head screwdriver held the old bulb in place towards the rear of the microwave. Towards the front of the microwave, a small plastic post holds the front of the bulb. I removed the screw and pulled out the old bulb.
The new bulb fits easily into the same plastic post and screw connection. However, the new bulbs connector prongs are bent at a 90 degree angle to the original bulb. Instead of sticking straight out from the microwave, which was how the old bulb was configured, the new bulb prongs pointed to the right side of the microwave (as viewed from the front). Fortunately, the wiring harness in the microwave that connects to the light bulb had a zip tie that was loose enough to get enough slack for the push-in connector to reach the new bulb's prongs.
After the bulb was in, I reversed the steps described above, making sure to leave the chisel in place until the top cover had been secured back in place. Once the chisel was removed from the vertical metal strip, the bent portion again would prevent easy removal of the top cover. I made sure to plug the microwave power cord back into the outlet on the conventional oven, then we slid the entire unit back into the cabinet enclosure, and I put the anchor screws back to hold the stack into the cabinet.
Three of us worked on this - mostly to help pull the stack out of the cabinet and to help steady it while the front was resting on the wood crate. This is not a single-person job. It was not terribly difficult, but the number of steps is very tedious. I found a helpful YouTube video "How to uninstall/install a Jenn-Air JMC8127DD/JMC8130DD Microwave Oven" posted by Ali The Handy Man. Being able to see that the microwave and oven stack was connected by a "bridge" (as Ali calls it) was a major help in tackling this.
After this, we suspect that Jenn-Air must have not wanted any repairs to their appliances. As I said above, this repair to replace a light bulb seemed unnecessarily tedious.

Over the stove microwave installed in top cabinet row.
1. Unplug device.
2. Two people to remove from wall/cabinet (remove two, large, top mounting screws and rotate entire microwave down and off the wall mount). Should be some wood spacers between top of device and bottom of cabinet.
3. Remove screws from sheet metal cover.
4. Remove one screw holding blowers in place and rotate out of the way, in order to gain access to 2 of 5 screws that hold the magnetron in place.
5. Unplug magnetron and remove the 5 screws.
6. Drop in new magnetron and re-assemble microwave in reverse order (steps 5-3).
7. Two people restore micro to wall/cabinet. Replace wood spacers, re-install two, large mounting screws (finger-tight). Test device. Secure the two large screws.

remove outer cover of microwave, (special recessed star bit required) change bulb, unplug and remove 1 phillips screw.

Removed case,
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.

I unplugged the microwave. I did watch a YouTube video to see how the plastic frame around the door could be removed. I used a putty knife to pry it off. The spring was still in good shape, so I hooked it up to the new latch/locker part and onto the microwave. This was just a little time consuming because I was trying to be careful so I wouldn't break anything on the new part. The plastic frame clicked right back on. I plugged the microwave in and it worked right away. If I can do it, you can do it. Sure beat buying a new microwave. Great experience.

Removed some cosmetic panels. Removed the assembly with micro switches. Examined the faulty switch by checking the clicking action of switch. Two others were ok by this method. Replaced the switch with new one. Works fine so far. Thanks to web site and YouTube videos.

well I unplugged the microwave one day prior to working on it. shock precaution smart way to do this job. very easy pullout the screws behind the unit pull off the outer casing. minor screws inside the unit you have to remove a couple things out of the way. unplug the magnetron and remove first gives you more room to work on the side panel to replace the micro switches. I only replaced one the bottom micro switch. only one bad, but since I was in there I clean the bulb and changed the magnetron any ways. I read other reviews and made my choice to do so. it works perfectly now. Thanks PartSelect for having parts.

Unplug the microwave. Remove the Philips head and safety Torx head screws along the bottom of the sides and rear of the microwave which hold the black cover on. Lift the cover up at the rear and slide it backwards to disengage the tabs on the front top. Remove the cover. Discharge the capacitor by shorting the terminals to each other and then ground. Do this with a well insulated object and be aware there may be a pop when you do this. Keep hands, etc. on the insulated part of the object (screwdriver handle, etc). There's a lot of stored energy in that capacitor. I'd advise first checking the diode to make sure its not bad. Replace it if it is. The Magnatron is held in with a couple of screws on the top and sides. Unplug the connector and remove the screws. Remove the Magnatron. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Opened Box and Replaced Part......No Problem!