This drip bowl, also known as the drip pan or burner bowl, is 6 inches in internal diameter to match the burner, but actually measures closer to 8 inches in total diameter to its outer edges. This au...
$18.22
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
This Drip Bowl, also known as a burner bowl or drip pan, is made to fit an element 8 inches in diameter and comes in chrome. The actual total diameter of this drip bowl is closer to 10 inches, but don...
$18.64
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
The metallic clip, or also known as a broil element support, is for a oven element on a range. This part holds the broil element in place on top of the oven. If your support clip is broken then this r...
$16.68
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near t...
$151.71
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
This light bulb lens covers the interior light bulb in an oven, range, or stove. No tools are necessary to replace this part. Simply slide off the wire bracket to remove the existing light bulb lens. ...
$13.53
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
This part provides a way of connecting individual electrical wires and offers protection of the device from electrical surges (voltages and/or currents).
$56.72
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
These are replacement screws designed to fit your range. They are made of metal and are approximately ¼ inch long. They come in a package of 12. These are OEM parts sourced directly from the manufacturer.
$9.12
Special Order
Questions And Answers for JM250DF3BB
Be the first to ask our experts a question about this model!
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this model and we'll respond as soon as we can.
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.
SYMPTOM: The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was
... Read more about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS: There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR: As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall: - Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position. - Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off) - Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling - The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed, - Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws) - Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit) - Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board). - Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY... - 1.02K ohms in ice water - 1.09K ohms at room temperature - 1.36K ohms in boiling water. If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board. - Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant. - Carefully remove the wires one at a time - VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board. -- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector. - Remove the controller board (4 screws) - Install new controller board (4 screws) - VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side. -- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then, -- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then -- Press down on the connector locking tabs. - Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board. -- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter. - Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires. - Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.) - Re-install top cover. - Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet, - Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place. - Flip power breaker to "On". - Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
