JJW8627DDB29 Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

DOOR HINGE: Lifted the door out of place and layed it on the floor. Removed the six screws (three on top and three on bottom) from the door to remove the front panel exposing the hinges. Removed three screws from each hinge to remove them. Reversed the process to complete. HINGE BRACKET: Would recommend replacing these with hinges. After removing the screws that hold the oven in I pulled the oven out about four inches. Brackets are now easily removed and replaced, two screws each. Slide the oven back resecure and your done. DOOR GASKET: Just pulled it out and snapped in the new.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Removed both oven doors to remove from the wall. Pulled the oven out of the wall. Removed all the sheet metal backing on the back of oven top and bottom. Removed the electrical,connections to the fan. Removed attach,net screws and pulled the fan. A bit of a pain had to twist pull and bend the metal bracket. Replacement fan had to be reversed came apart easily and reversed then reassembled. Fit in easily and attached electrical connections. Then reattached all the sheet metal backing bottom then top. Put oven back in wall then secured in place. Re installed the doors and applied power. Oven worked great as soon as we tested it. Great fix, works better than new!

I broke the door by accidentally "bumping" the lower door handle stepping off a ladder while changing light bulbs at mother-in-law's. Yes, I broke my mother-in-laws oven!

Partselect.com saved my bacon and my marriage. The repair is fairly straight forward. The door is opened about halfway to allow access to the clips on the hinges. Once the clips are down, the door just lifts right off.

The Outer door is essentially stainless steel and tempered glass laminated together. There are three screws top and bottom of the door that must be removed to allow the back of the door to be lifted out of the front.

Once you have the door separated, you must remove the heat shield behind the handle with one screw and pry the shield up a little. It is held in place with double sided sticky tape as well.

Once the heat shield is up, you can remove the two nuts holding the handle in place.

Once the handle is removed flip the door over, face up, and then just slide the glass outer assy up. It is held in place by two tabs on the bottom that slide into two holes in the front oven door assy and the now removed handle.

Remove the protective plastic taped to the new door and then just slide back into place and reassemble the door.

Fairly easy. You might need an extra set of hands to actually lift the door out of the oven and to get the two halves back together when you try to line up the screws.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

Once you figure out how to pop the little clips that lock the hinges in place this is not a difficult repair. But, it is tedious due to all the screws on the door.

Fold the door down and look for the tabs on the clips just above the hinge connections. You should able to push the tabs back and down with your fingers. If they are stuck use a flat blade screw driver or pair of pliers. Lift the door straight up and pull back. The hinges may pop (loud) while doing this. Set the door on the floor and proceed to remove the inner door by unscrewing all the sheet metal and machine screws. Lift the inner door out and the two hinges are accessible on either side. There are two black machine screws on the bottom of the inner door that hold each hinge in place. Unscrew those and the hinges come right out. Take the same black machine screws and use them to cut the threads into the new hinges. Remove the screws and install the new hinges. Use the black machine screws to attach the new hinges to the inner door. Reinstall the inner door to the outer. Lift the door assembly back in place on the hinge connectors at the oven. Then, don't forget to push the locking tabs back in place. The hinge replacement is complete.

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

First I removed the oven door - with door fully open pull the clips on the hinges all the way out, then close door as far as it will go and lift the door up and off the oven.

Then I removed the three screws on each side, that hold the oven to the wooden cabinet. I then slid the oven unit out from the cabinet about 6 inches, to gain access to the hinge receptacles.

I then removed the 2 screws that secure the receptables to the oven body, and replaced the receptacles.

Reverse steps to put it back together.

Works like a charm.

Pulled the double wall oven out about five inches and install replacement brackets on both sides. Reinstalled oven doors and slide ovens back. Piece of cake— the lower oven door closes better than when oven was installed 13 years ago. Believe I had a bracket problem from day one!

Removed the door and the screws that secured the oven to the cabinet. Pulled the oven out about four inches to provide access to the hinge brackets. Removed two screws on each bracket and removed the brackets. Reversed the process and all was well. Works like new.

Removed door, separated deer panels, replaced spring