JJW8530CAW Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

Searching the internet, I found the part I needed for the lowest price at PartSelect.com. I reviewed the exploded parts diagram for my oven at PartSelect.com to get a general overview of how the oven was assembled - then I read the customer stories to get some hints from those who had done this repair before. My oven is a combination wall oven with a microwave on top. First, I shut off the power to the oven at the breaker box and then removed the thin, long rails from each side of the oven using a philips screwdriver to remove the 4 screws. This then allowed me to remove the plastic faceplate from around the microwave. Opening the oven door, I found 4 philips pan head screws underneath the control panel and removed them. The control panel will then easily lift up and then out. There are 3 areas where you must disconnect electrical connections on the control module - pay a bit of attention here, but they are sized differently and are not hard to match back up appropriately when you reconnect them to the new module. These connection plugs pull straight out with no tool needed. The old control module is held in place with 4 hex-head screws I removed with a nutdriver. After you remove the old module, it is a good time to clean the inside of the clear diplay area of the front panel with a paper towel dampened with a bit of window cleaner. Allow this to dry and then install your new control module reversing the procdures you used to remove it and reverse the procedures to reinstall the control panel, the microwave faceplate and the side rails. Cut the power back on and sit back as your wife finally thinks you are the genius that you truly are........

Screws removed from below panel. The most difficult procedure was removing the panel from the oven unit to get to the part. After lifting up and out, the panel back was revealed. Disconnected old part by pulling the three connections and replacing with new part.

The door seal was an exact fit for the factory one. There are little clips that hold the seal to the door. The clips are already installed in the seal. To remove just grasp the seal at each clip and pull up. The seal comes off easily. The ends of the seal are tucked into holes at the bottom of the door so you can just pull them out. For the installation of the new seal grasp the seal at each clip and push them into the littles holes. I used a flat blade screwdriver to tuck the seal ends into the two larger holes at the door bottom. The whole process took about 10 minutes.

I wouldn't have changed the seal but the hot lasagna made the seal sort of hard after it cooled off.

Shut off electricity to stove. Took out bolts, removed old element. Slide tabs out of connectors. Put new heating element in. Put bolts back in and turned electricity back on.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Turned off power at beaker box. Opened oven door. Removed four screws from botton of display panel. Lifted display panel up and out to remove. Unplugged three wire bundles from back of circuit board. Removed four screws holding circuit board and replaced circuit board. Reassembled panel. Turned power back on. Presto.....saved $200.00 from repair estimate.

Removed old assembly, attached wires to new and inserted into space for same. Of course you must turn off the range circuit breaker. The part that took the most time was removing the old assembly. Once that was done, the rest took only a few minutes.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

Same as the others to get to the bad clock. My old part was a circuit board which was made with white material and manufactured by RoberShaw. The new one was on a green material and by another manufacture. The new one felt a little heavier and look like there were more componets on it. However the plug-in connections and the mounting method was exactly the same. Before reassembly, I used a long handled brush to clean out most of the baking gunk that
had accumulated in this area and I used a clean wipeing cloth to clean the inside glass for the display. The best thing about this was the part came on the Thursday before
Hollowee, I installed it as soon as I got home from work. My wife started baking cookies and cup cakes for trick or
treat and all is well.

I removed the four screws holding the control panel to the oven. I then lifted off the panel and rested it on the the oven rack which I set in the top position and pulled out about a foot. Next, I removed the three plug in cables and removed the two screws from the frame that was holding the clock assembly in place. I put in the new part and reversed the procedure. Total time to replace part was six minutes.

1. Remove four screws on metal panel between top and lower oven doors. Pull the panel forward. You may need to open the top door partially to ease removal of panel.
2. Reach behind panel and unplug wire connector from old switch.
3. With panel free, squeeze ears on old switch and push through opening to remove.
4. Insert new switch in to hole and push from front to seat the switch. BE CAREFUL NOT to mess with the ears--if you try to splay them out (to better seat the switch) the switch will come apart.
5. Hold the panel up to opening to connect the wire harness to the switch.
6. Realign the metal plate to holes for screws and insert screws. (You may have to twist and turn to get the panel lined up.)
Done!

Replacing the electronic Clock Assembly was a piece of cake - just as earlier DIYers had experienced.

The door hinges were not any harder to replace, but it does not affect the behavior of the door. The light stays on unless we keep the door closed with a hook and anchor ( bent piece of metal and a wooden wedge). Not pretty, but effective. Obviously a design flaw... keeping door closed in this way forces all airflow to top and has melted the paint into a wrinkled surface. We had a service person replace the gasket seal and hinges before, but the problem still persists. I did discover that soaking the light cover in a cola drink overnight did a splendid job of cleaning off the gunk.

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike