JJW8527CAW Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

I removed the old sensor via the two screws holding it in, unplugged it and replaced it with a new one.

New part delivery was prompt, arrived within 24 hours and was well-packaged. Removal of old element was complicated by one of the two original wires being caught up in the housing behind the oven. After removing the circular metal plate in the back of the oven the offending wire could be accessed and rerouted. Plugging in and installing the new bake element was quite easy and without complications.

Removed 2 screws holding the lower element (hard but they actually came out after 12 years) and pulled the wires out to expose the wire connections. I didn't turn off the breaker since the oven was off. BIG MISTAKE. One of the connectors touched the oven case and blew off the end of the element. No problem luckily. After turning off the breaker all was OK and easy. Connected the wires to the new element and put back screws. Screws are not tightening up all the way but they won't pull out with moderate pressure so I'm calling it finished. If I get energetic I might try slightly larger screws sometime. Took less time than writing this.

The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in place and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.

Opened oven door. Inserted a small bent nail into the small holes on the hinge. This locks the hinge from closing all the way. Removed the chrome hinge retaining plates. One at each hinge. Lifted the door off the oven. Laid door on towel. Removed 3 screws from the top of door, three screws from the bottom of door. This allows you to separate the two pieces of the door. Clean all glass surfaces, including the ones under the middle glass panel. Removed 1 screw from each hinge at bottom of door. Pull hinge from bottom of door after removing screws. Insert new spring at top of door first, replace retaining screw. Realign the two door parts and replace all screws. Set door back on hinge pocket. Be careful to insure that the hinge seats into the pocket. Open door just enough to replace retaining plates. Process was easy, but it did not fix the problem completely. Bought heavy magnets from hardware store and installed them inside the door. This with the new hinge fixed the problem.

Loosen two screws to remove door. Removed outside trim and other outside screws hold center panel in place. Removed one screw holding hinge in place. Screwed new hinge in place. Re-attached center panel to outside trim and hung door. Easy enough.

Removed two screws holding oven sensor in place. Haad to remove part of the back to access wires. Found existing wires had burnt up, and had to reterminate same. Installed new sensor, making sure the leads did not come in contact with the rear of oven compartment. (This may have been what caused failure to begin with)

The "PartsSelect" General discription of the parts funtion helped me to confirm my suspitions that there was some form of temperature registering problem. I whatched the short video they provided on how to change the part out, even though, in this case, it's pretty self explanitory.The part was in my hands a day erlier than promised and in reality, much earlier than I had anticipated from the beginng. It took me all total, 20 minutes to exchange the part out and have the oven in operation again.

The sensor inserts into a slot in the back side of the range. By removing screws on the heat shield on the backside of the range, the sensor wires will be exposed can be unplugged. Then remove the screws that attach the sensor to the back inside panel in the oven. Next, pull the old sensor out. The wire leads will get caught on the insulation blanket, no big deal. Reverse the process to install the new sensor. The new sensor comes with two connector sets for the wiring. I did the whole job for less than the cost of a service call.

We watched the video demo & followed it step by step. The project took about 35 minutes and we replaced the hinge on each side of the oven. First we removed the oven from the wall, then dismantled it & cleaned it thoroughly, removed the old hinges and replaced with new ones. the only problem we had was that the pin holding the hinge open was missing on one of the hinges, but we cut a nail and inserted it to hold the hinge open. The job was completed quickly, and the oven door fits and works well. Thanks for the video--it really helped us.

I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!

Unlike many here, the oven door closed enough to come up to temperature quickly and I could not feel any heat escaping. The oven worked fine but the light stayed on because the door just wasn't snug enough. I watched the great how-to video and ordered the hinges. They arrived in two or three days! I set up a work space, cued up the video again and the new hinges were installed in just a few minutes! But the door would not close enough to turn the light off! I did some more googling around and found the magnet trick! I just happened to have the perfect size magnet from a broken souvenir magnet! and now the light stays off! I stuck the magnet (about the size of a nickel) inside the door opposite the light button. This won't help if you have serious problems with the oven door, but it works if the only problem is the light!

The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resistance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.

take the old ones out and slide the new ones in ordered around 2 in the afternoon and they were delivered to my front door around the same time the next day very pleased with service and the racks. I just wish I could get parts for my Jenn-Air cooktop which is 20 years old maybe somewhere someday.

Remove 2 screws in upper left corner of stove holding sensor in place. Pull sensor out and disconnect plastic electrical connector. Select appropriate adapter (both styles provided with new part) & reinstall. Power up stove and select bake on control unit to test. Works like a charm!