JJW7530DDS Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I had the old oven rack in the oven when I cleaned it. The rack came out brown and would not slide easily. The new rack was exactly the right one and now all is back to perfect!

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Removed both oven doors to remove from the wall. Pulled the oven out of the wall. Removed all the sheet metal backing on the back of oven top and bottom. Removed the electrical,connections to the fan. Removed attach,net screws and pulled the fan. A bit of a pain had to twist pull and bend the metal bracket. Replacement fan had to be reversed came apart easily and reversed then reassembled. Fit in easily and attached electrical connections. Then reattached all the sheet metal backing bottom then top. Put oven back in wall then secured in place. Re installed the doors and applied power. Oven worked great as soon as we tested it. Great fix, works better than new!

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

Removed door, dissasembled door cleaned all broken glass, installed new glass, re-assembled door and put door back on oven.

Very simple project.

First I removed the oven door - with door fully open pull the clips on the hinges all the way out, then close door as far as it will go and lift the door up and off the oven.

Then I removed the three screws on each side, that hold the oven to the wooden cabinet. I then slid the oven unit out from the cabinet about 6 inches, to gain access to the hinge receptacles.

I then removed the 2 screws that secure the receptables to the oven body, and replaced the receptacles.

Reverse steps to put it back together.

Works like a charm.

Pulled the double wall oven out about five inches and install replacement brackets on both sides. Reinstalled oven doors and slide ovens back. Piece of cake— the lower oven door closes better than when oven was installed 13 years ago. Believe I had a bracket problem from day one!

Removed the door and the screws that secured the oven to the cabinet. Pulled the oven out about four inches to provide access to the hinge brackets. Removed two screws on each bracket and removed the brackets. Reversed the process and all was well. Works like new.

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.