Models > JGW8130DDB Maytag > Instructions

JGW8130DDB Jenn-Air Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for JGW8130DDB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JGW8130DDB
16-30 of 213
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Oven would not light; dings in the porcelin top

  • Customer: Richard from Fanwood NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The bottom burner would not stay lit. I determined that it was as a result of the ignitor's voltage droping. The thing still glowed red but apparently the voltage drops and closes the gas valve. So, I switched the broiler one with the bottom one to see if it would work. It did. Then I bought the new ignitor and put it in where I had taken the broiler ignitor out. You have to take care to put the insulation back and shove the connector well into the hole so that there is no possibllity of it melting. I also replaced the oven top. I had bought that part a couple of years ago because I had dropped some things on it and it was chipped. When I got the top I thought it would be somewhat intuitive as to how to replace it. But, it wasn't. So,it stayed in its box. When I had the other problem I decided to tackle the top too. First turn off the gas and unplug the oven. You have to pry the top off with a screw driver. Then, you disconnect wires which run to the ignitor for each burner. You also have to disconnect the gas lines running to each dial. Now, you take the top off. To get the burners off the top you have to take a pair of channel locks and open them wide, wrap a rag around the burner and turn them like screws. Under the top there is an assembly that holds the gas lines in place. that has to be removed from under each buner. These assemblies are not interchangeable!!! One is left and the other is right. You then reverse everything. Put the burners in by screwing them down. Its hard but if you put a rag over them you can strike them with a rubber mallet. Screw the gas line assemblies into the bottom of the top. Then hook up the wires and then the gas lines. Then, you pop the top back in. There are those pressure clamps that hold the top down. I made a mistake with the gas line assemblies and switched them. So, when I tested the repair I realized I had the front dial controlling the rear burners and vice versa. Some day I take it all apart and fix it again!

The oven door outer glass was shattered

  • Customer: William from El Paso TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered the door glass from Part Select, which arrived quickly and in good condition. I loosened two sets of screws under the bottom glass holder frame, removed three screws at the top of the door to give more room. Slid the glass in place, re-installed and tightened the screws.The stove door looks great and works great. Great customer service too.

Overshooting temperatures upon changing settings

  • Customer: James from Palmdale CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Look in the oven. On the upper left corner is the sensor. Remove two screws. Gently pull the wire and connector through the hole and insulation. Disconnect old sensor, replace new. Gently push the connection through, then finish pulling through from behind the stove. Replace the screws inside the oven. Done.

Oven would not maintain set temperature. Oven flame would take a long time to re-ignite causing oven to cool down more than 100 degrees before re-igniting.

  • Customer: Jack from Millington NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Step1: Remove oven door. Open oven door about 3-4 inches and pull up with 2 hands.

Step2: Turn oven light ON so you can see.

Step3: Remove bottom tray by pulling on the 2 rear clips and lift tray up and out of the oven.

Step4: Using a nut driver remove the 2 nuts holding the ignitor in place. If nuts are rusted from heat spray a tiny bit of WD-40 on them and totally wipe off any excess when finished removing the nuts.

Step5:Pull wire from old ignitor through the insulation and unplug it from its connection.

Step6: Plug in new ignitor and push it back through the insulation and fasten it back in position with the 2 nuts.

Step7: Re-install bottom tray and door and CONGRATULATIONS cause you just saved yourself about $150! by DIY And you never again will be eating semi-raw chicken or better yet, take the money you just saved and treat yourself and your family to a sushi dinner.

I would like to thank Partselect.com for their quick delivery and very reasonable price on the Ignitor I purchased.

Regards.

oven temperature not correct

  • Customer: Wayne from Hopedale IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled the oven away from wall to access rear of oven. Disconnect electric plug from duplex outlet, turn off gas supply ball valve. Removed two screws that retain sensor on inside of oven. Disconnected two prong sensor connector at rear of oven. Tied a length of string to sensor connector wires. Pulled old sensor out through front of oven. Use the string to tie onto new sensor connector wires and pull new sensor into place from rear of oven. Retain sensor with two screws. At back of oven, used connector jumper supplied with part package to make connection to existing connector.

OVEN DID NOT HEAT UP !!!!!!!!

  • Customer: MICHAEL from VAN NUYS CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I REALIZED WHERE THE IGNITOR WAS AND
I TURNED OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER TOOK THE V PLATE OFF WITH A LITTLE TIE NUT UNSCREWED THE 2 SMALL NUTS AND SMALL PLATE TO HOLD WIRES IN AND PULLED THE PIG TAIL WIRE OUT AND UNPLUGGED IT AND THEN TOOK NEW ONE AND INSTALLED IT IN REVERSE ORDER DONE IN 7 MINUTES
THANKS MICHAEL

oven would't go on

  • Customer: James from Fords NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then conected the new element and replaced te two screws. Turned on the oven & works fine.
Very Easy!

door glass broken

  • Customer: Mariano from Staten Island NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
My wife called a service company and was told that a tech would have to inspect the stove.
service charge 60.00 After inspection the parts would be orderd and a 200 fee for labor plus the parts would be charged at the completeion of the job. 2 weeks for part. I found you on the net orderd the glass. got it in 2 days and I completed the repair in 20 mins. Cost 89.00

When the oven was turned on, F2 and F4 came on. Oven wouldn't heat.

  • Customer: Crystal from Scott City MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
After reading some of the repair stories, I was hesitant about doing this task. It was really very simple, I just removed the screws from the back of the stove, and removed the old element. I then replaced it with the new one and replaced the back cover. This whole task from start to finish took 10 minutes. The oven heats perfectly now just like a new oven.

oven would not maintain temp

  • Customer: doyle from demorest GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) pushed wires back in and secured sensor

Oven would not preheat and gave 'F1' error

  • Customer: Joshua from Reno NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Had to unplug unit, remove back of unit (6 screws), then unscrew oven sensor (2 screws), then unplugged old sensor, replaced it and put back of oven on...Moving the oven out and working in the tight space avaialble was the most difficult. Other than that, super easy job that probably saved me a lot of $$$...

Oven was running 100 degrees over the setting

  • Customer: Jack from Montebello CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the four screws holding the upper air baffle and removed the baffle. The panel containing the controller was now free. Noted the location of the external connectors and removed each, starting with the power connector. Removed the two ribbon cables by raising the tabs on the edge of the connector. Freed the control unit by spreading the four plastic retainer clips. Checked to make sure that the new unit matched the original. Reinstalled the new controller and re-connected all of the cables, starting with the ribbon cables. Installed the controller housing and finished by re-installing the baffle.
Tested the oven -- it now stabilized at the desired temperature.
Appreciated the affirmation received from the PartSelect service tech I spoke with who confirmed that the part I had selected was appropriate for the Jenn-Air unit.

oven would not heat up.

  • Customer: Marc from Abington PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the oven racks. Slide the two catches, located at each rear corner of the oven bottom, toward the front of the oven.

Lift the rear edge of the oven bottom slightly, then slide it back until the front edge of the oven bottom clears the oven front frame. Remove oven bottom from oven.

Pulled storage drawer out to the first stop position. Lift up front of drawer and pull to the second stop position.
Grasp sides and lift up and out.

Under storage area, I removed two screws to remove a steel plate. In the oven, I removed two screws that held on the Oven Igniter. Unplugged the Igniter under the storage area.

Plugged in the new Oven Igniter, replace the two screws that held the Oven Igniter, replace the two screws for the steel plate. Put the storage drawer back, the bottom of the oven back and the racks.

It was easier than I though it would be.

missing screws for oven door

  • Customer: donna from baltimore MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

My wife destroyed the oven door seal with oven cleaner...

  • Customer: David from Bexley OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its corresponding hole.
All Instructions for the JGW8130DDB
16-30 of 213