Models > JGS968SEK1SS

JGS968SEK1SS General Electric Range - Overview

Sections of the JGS968SEK1SS

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Manuals & Care Guides for JGS968SEK1SS

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Grate Foot – Part Number: WB02T10461
Grate Foot
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(18)
PartSelect #: PS2353327
Manufacturer #: WB02T10461
The Grate Foot is a black rubber part which attaches underneath the grate in order to protect your stovetop from being scratched, which it does by cushioning the grate on your gas range. If this part ...
$12.51
  In Stock
Temperature Sensor – Part Number: WB21X22134
Temperature Sensor
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(48)
PartSelect #: PS10059162
Manufacturer #: WB21X22134
The temperature sensor, also known as the oven temperature sensor assembly is usually found in the back of the oven. The function of the oven temperature sensor assembly is to measure the temperature ...
$38.48
  In Stock
REAR SUPPORT – Part Number: WB02X33180
REAR SUPPORT
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★★★★★
(20)
PartSelect #: PS12709839
Manufacturer #: WB02X33180
This rear drawer support comes with the installation screw. This part has been redesigned. The new support inserts towards the rear of the drawer as opposed to the side.
$13.05
  In Stock
Oven Igniter – Part Number: WB13T10045
Oven Igniter
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★★★★★
(18)
PartSelect #: PS952863
Manufacturer #: WB13T10045
This part is used to light the oven for the bake or broil.
$157.75
  In Stock
Foot - Leveller – Part Number: WB02X10521
Foot - Leveller
PartSelect #: PS223802
Manufacturer #: WB02X10521
Sold individually.
$23.43
  In Stock
Ignitor Mounting Screw – Part Number: WB1X1293
Ignitor Mounting Screw
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS234519
Manufacturer #: WB1X1293
Sold Individually.
$9.64
  In Stock
Meat Probe Thermistor – Part Number: WB20T10024
Meat Probe Thermistor
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(4)
PartSelect #: PS1481046
Manufacturer #: WB20T10024
This probe is used to check the internal temperature of the meat to ensure proper temperature is reached. Also known as a Meat Probe.
$56.73
  In Stock
SCREW – Part Number: WB1K5062
SCREW
PartSelect #: PS234148
Manufacturer #: WB1K5062
$11.59
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WH2X930
Screw
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(1)
PartSelect #: PS271689
Manufacturer #: WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
$12.22
  In Stock
RANGE HALOGEN BULB KIT – Part Number: WB49X29679
RANGE HALOGEN BULB KIT
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(8)
PartSelect #: PS12342510
Manufacturer #: WB49X29679
This light bulb is used in the interior oven. NOTE: This bulb has looped pins, not the straight pins.
$49.10
  In Stock
Broiler Pan - Large – Part Number: WB48X10056
Broiler Pan - Large
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(10)
PartSelect #: PS1517612
Manufacturer #: WB48X10056
This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures ...
$30.07
  In Stock
Front Drawer Support – Part Number: WB48T10013
Front Drawer Support
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS249583
Manufacturer #: WB48T10013
$8.06
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for JGS968SEK1SS

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JIMMIE
October 4, 2022
I smell gas when the oven is cycling up to preset temp and when it is first lighting up. The burners give off a lot off gas when lighting
For model number JGS968SEK1SS
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Hello Jimmie, thank you for contacting us. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: the pressure regulator, part number PS2321353, the oven igniter, part number PS952863, and the gas control valve, part number PS953461. Please also inspect the burner tubes for leaks. Check the oven igniter via an amp-meter and make sure it draws 3 to 5 amperes current. Customer service is always available to help you place an order if you are having trouble doing so. Good luck with your repair.

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Sam
July 15, 2023
Knob is loose and pulls easily off. Can I buy a new knob and should that fix the problem. Do you sell the replacement knob?
For model number JGS968SEK1SS
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Hello Same, Thank you for asking. As long as the shaft that the knob slips onto is not loose or damaged, the new Knob Part #: PS1480770 should fix the issue. We hope this helps!

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Common Symptoms of the JGS968SEK1SS

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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Oven not heating evenly
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Oven is too hot
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Element will not heat
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Door won’t close
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Touchpad does not respond
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven would go in to a F2 Error
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Peter from stamford, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
142 of 205 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven wouldn't heat
After removing the door and the lower pan cover, I removed 4 screws holding down the flame spreader. Once the flame spreader was off, I was looking at the two screws that hold on the igniter assembly. For some reason, these seemed to be the worst part of the repair. One screw broke off at the head as soon as I tried to loosen it. The other was apparently stripped during the initial installation. Due to lack of space to fit the dremel tool in the area, it took quite some time to remove the second screw. Once I finally got those removed, it was a piece of cake. The assembly easily pulled out approximately 4 inches to disconnect the plug. The new plug was easy to insert and push back in the cavity behind the oven. I had extra sheet metal screws, so the installation of the new assembly took less than 10 minutes. As I said, the worst part was the stripped screw and lack of space to get the proper tool to remove it.
Parts Used:
Oven Igniter
  • Robert from Canton, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
90 of 94 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven wouldn't work, broiler, stovetop would
LIke the other posters, this should have been an easy fix. From internet research my official self-diagnosis was that either the ignitor didn't work or there was a problem with a temperature sensor or control module. At $70 for the part vs. $230 to get a Sears repair main out here (in two weeks time?!), I rolled the dice and decided to order the part.

Taking the door off of the oven took a bit of figuring out (back to the internet), but once you know how it's very easy - 10 seconds.

After you take off the door, you then take out what I would call a heat shield that goes across the entire bottom of the oven (no tools needed) and then remove the 'heat spreader' with a socket set. That came off easy as well. Total time maybe 5 minutes.

Then the fun started. One of the two screws that connects the igniter sheared off. Luckily it sheared in a way that it didn't hold the ignitor any more, and the other screw maintained its integrity so in the end I could re-attach the ignitor. Ignitor off in less than 5 minutes.

All the repair guides say that you just unplug the ignitor from the quick disconnect plug and replace it with the new one. Sounds great but I couldn't get to the quick disconnect - the wires wouldn't pull far enough out to reveal the quick disconnect. I could see it and feel it with a finger in the hole, but either the wires weren't long enough or it was caught on something (felt like the former). I tried pulling harder, but got to a point where I felt I was going to break something and so I stopped.

I then started looking at how I could get the back of the oven off or another way to get access to that quick disconnect. Long story short - you can't do it through the front of the oven, you have to pull the entire oven out and go through a hatch in the back of the oven. Once I had figured that out everything was ok, but it took me 2 days of poking around for 10 minutes here, going to the internet there, and back and forth to decide I couldn't get to it from the front and how exactly to pull the oven out (turns out the type with the controls on the front hangs down from the counter itself and doesn't slide out easy - it takes some elbow grease to actually do it.).

In the end I wasn't confident I could get it back in by myself if I slide it completely out, so I pulled it part-way and then climbed on the counter and then into the small space I had created behind the stove.

Everything said and done I spent a couple hours messing with this. It turns out that the wires for both ignitors were routed around each other incorrectly and when I reconnected the new ignitor correctly I could pull the ignitor through the front of the oven like you're supposed to do. Glad it's fixed, but nothing is ever as easy as it should be...
Parts Used:
Oven Igniter
  • Brian from Vergennes, VT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Socket set
79 of 80 people found this instruction helpful.
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