Models > JGP336WEV4WW > Instructions

JGP336WEV4WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for JGP336WEV4WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JGP336WEV4WW
1-15 of 42
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Top four burners on oven would not light without using match

  • Customer: David from Logansport IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 37 of 46 people found this instruction helpful
Really simple..Opened the top of the oven and followed the four wires hooked to the igniters on the burners to the back of the oven. Unscrewed top section in back of oven. Found spark module screwed to uppper back of oven on right side. Used a nutdriver to take a few screws out of upper back of oven. Unscrewed spark module from oven. There are six wires - four to the burners and two to the power supply....Wires are attached by connectors so didn't have to do anything but pull the connectors off the old spark module one at a time and push them onto the new spark module matching postion of each wire. Screwed spark module back onto back of oven. Screwed back section of oven back onto rear of oven, and that was it. Works perfectly. Saved more than $100 for service call and whatever elevated price they'd charge me for the spark module.

Burner igniter needed to be replaced

  • Customer: Thomas from Bloomsbury NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
Assumed the entire top of the range would have to be lifted off. Removed the three screws inside the top of the over door and then noticed the two screws holding the dish around the burner. They were tight and required WD-40 and then a sharp tap and came off.
Important: Notice the direction your old igniter is plugged into the wire. It is not clear and can go on either way.

electronic ignitors would not stop firing even when burner was off

  • Customer: Jorge from Tulsa OK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
first I removed all the srews from the burners that hold the glass cooktop. I then disconected the two wires from the damaged gas valves and replaced them all four with the new ones. After that I put it all togehter and work just fine and celebrated with a good cold beer.

The porcelain had chipped on the burner bowls

  • Customer: Paula from Seal Beach CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the two screws holding the porcelain burner bowl. Disconected the electric igniter by removing the "w" clip on the underside of the bowl. Then disconnected the igniter from the electric supply cord. Reverse these directions using the new urner bowl.
Really easy.

Spark was present in only two of four burners

  • Customer: Paul from Maurertown VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Repair was quite easy. Remove four screws and lay back sheet metal panel. Transfer wires from one module to the other and then put new module in place. replaced the sheetmetal panel. Spark now presen at all burners. One small thing worth mentioning. Each burner has a gas distrubution cap and that cap has a small hole to the spark cavity. One of these was pluged with grease and that kept the burner from lighting until this hole was cleared.

Replacement cook-top, had natural gas orifices, needed propane

  • Customer: Aloha from Monterey LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Three were simple screw out and replace with a nut driver. The warming burner had a smaller opeining which was too large for the nut driver. Had to remove shielding aroound it first. Simple, job. My mother did the last one.

Burner bowl worn out from cleaning

  • Customer: Leon from Lancaster CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled off burner grates, burner, unscrewed burner bowl, removed clip from igniter and wire, then put it all back together. Was very easy, and the stove looks like new again.

PartSelect is very good with amazing shipment times. The kjpart arrived much sooner than expected.

Drip pans needed to be replaced.

  • Customer: Steve from Broken Arrow OK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Simiple repair. Determined drip pan size (sm, med., lg.) removed 2 screws holding drip pan, placed gasket around new drip pan and installed. Repaired took less than 5 minutes.

stove top burner ignition spark progressively got weaker and then stopped on all but one burner.

  • Customer: George from Villa Park IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I located the igniter module by following the wires to the top/rear of the stove. Removed two sheet metal guards and marked and numbered each electrical wire before removing them. Reasembled in reverse order. Wife thinks I'm a genius!

Only one burner sparking on range.

  • Customer: Ronald from Freehold NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Removed spark module only two small nuts. Inside was six wires on terminal. Removed one by one and connected right to the new module. Easy job 10 minutes and finished.

Igniter switch stopped working on one burner

  • Customer: Jeff from Roseland NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
The most difficult part of the repair was getting the front panel off. I needed to remove the top of the stove, which was easy but awkward - remove the two screws from each of the four burner bowls. Lift the bowls one by one, disconnect the wire and slide off the small clip under each igniter. Move the bowls and igniters out of the way. You will find a piece of sealant underneath the stove top covering the length of the front panel. You need to gently pry it off by lifting the stove top just enough to break the seal. Once the top is separated just gently move it to the back of the stove. You can now remove the 3 large screws underneath the front panel. There are also 2 screws under the plastic anchors that hold the front panel in place. Be careful, there are hidden screws in the back of each anchor, so don't break them. You just need to loosen them just enough to wiggle the front panel out. With the panel moved, the igniter switches are mounted over each knob. There is a spring washer clip holding them down. Gently pry off the clip of the damaged switch and disconnect the two wires. Make sure you put the wires back in the same order.

burner bowl mounting holes out of alignment

  • Customer: Keith from Frisco TX
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
No way to adjust mixer tube assembly so the mounting holes will line up with the holes in the burner bowl. Mounting
holes in bowl should be slotted to prevent future problems.
Had to finally bend the mixer tube mounting bracket enough to get one bowl on. It also made the procelin break
on that bowl because the screw put to much pressure on the side of the hole.

Igighter mounting hole out of position just enough to prevent the burner head from sliding over it and sitting on
the mixer tube correctly.

I solved this problem by fileing the opening slot for the igniter. Even with the igniters being just a little out of
alignment from the original position they still light well.

I did not get new gaskets for the burner bowl but would reccommend that you get them.

Range burners would not light

  • Customer: Gregory from Washington NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Lift up work light cover. Remove lamp. Remove two screws from control panel. Lift up control panel. Pop out spark module from slots. Remove the 6 wires from module. Attach wires to new module - module has a diagram on it that shows where wires are attached. Push new module back into slots. Replace control panel cover, lamp, and work light. Now the burners light - the spark is MUCH stronger than before repair.

2 burners wouldnt spark

  • Customer: chadd from philadelphia PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Took top off, removed wires from old spark module and put them on new one. Very easy and quick, works very well now.

Electrode ceramic insulator was cracked

  • Customer: Robert from Irvine KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First I elevated range top, then removed cracked electride from connector pin. Installed new electrode and lowered range top and all was fine.
All Instructions for the JGP336WEV4WW
1-15 of 42