JGC8536ADS Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Very easy, just removed the old ones and the new ones just clicked on.

Pulled off the old and pushed on the new. Took less than a minute.

Installation is simple and very straight forward. Problem, was i stripped the torx screw to release electrode because the screw was frozen. I then tore electrode out leaving space to use penetrating oil (inaffective ) then using a chisel to pop the screw out. It came out intact and did not damage the threads in the burner. So what could have been a 20 minutes job, turned into over an hour. But still worth doing myself.

Removed the gas deflector; unscrewed the burner body; pulled off the ignition wire; unscrewed the bad electrode; screwed in the replacement electrode; reversed the steps. Voila! Perfect operation once again. My one mistake? Ordered the wrong electrode initially. Make sure you get the right part the first time around.

This should be a 5 min job. Lift off the burner cover, remove two screws to lift of the burner base and then remove a Phillips head screw that hold the burner igniter in place.

Unfortunately, the screw holding the burner igniter was rusted and it could not be loosened. WD-40 did not touch it. I used a stronger penetrant, "Blaster". Still it would not budge. Then I used a small Phillips head screwdriver and a hammer which I used as an impact driver. I twisted the screwdriver slightly to loosen and hit it was a hammer. Then I twisted the screwdriver slightly to tighten and again hit it with a hammer. After the penetrant and a couple of more tries, the rusted screw finally moved!!!

With no rust, this should be an easy 5 minute replacement. The burner now works great!!!

The porcelain cracked on the burner igniter, it wouldn’t spark and light the flame. I got tired of using the fireplace lighter to light this main burner.

If you have to replace your igniter, it should be very very easy. Remove the two torx screws Holding the cast iron burner to the stainless steel top. Pull it up and the wire connected to the igniter should pull through the small hole in the stainless steel top. Turn the cast-iron base over, pull the wire off, and there is a little screw Fastening the igniter to the bottom of the cast-iron Base. Remove the old igniter and screw the new igniter in place, reattach the wire, and screw the base down to the stainless steel top. That’s it, or how it should be. After years of spaghetti water, gravy, etc. boiling over, I was only able to remove one of the torx screws after using some WD-40 and a torch to heat it up. The other screw sheared off at the head. And a little screw holding the igniter in place, the Phillips head was stripped! I had to leave the roof or the igniter in place, break off all the porcelain, and then break the rest of the metal off leading the screw in place. So I had to use my Dremel grinder to remove some of the metal on the new igniter, then use some tinfoil underneath it to stabilize it in place and then tighten the cast-iron base down using only one screw. Even with one screw and using the tinfoil, it is stable and everything works now. This $27 part was a heck of a lot cheaper than paying $5000 for a new range top!

Removed the two fastening screws with a small square head screwdriver,lifted the burner head disconnected wire from damaged electrode. To install just reversed the steps,total time less than ten minutes.

Go to YouTube and find video of conversion to your or stove like yours. Then Google your model number to find your manual and find the section that tells the BTU output of each burner. They will be something like this, 5000, 7200, 12500, 15,500, etc. The logic of the orifices is small BTU=small hole in jet, large BTU=large hole in jet. Carefully inspect your jets in the conversion pack and assign which jet goes where according to hole size by burner size and BTU output. If it seems wrong when you start the stove, you might have to swap jets with another burner to get it right. Be sure to convert your incoming regulator to the LP setting by reversing the plunger under the cap. Use crescent wrench to remove cap. You must also be sure to have a regulator on your propane source. Happy converting!

I removed the old knob and replaced with a new one from the plastic package. Biggest challenge: opening the new plastic package. It if very nice to know you have many of the parts I will need over the next 20 years.

First reviewed other review on this repair. Disconnected ignitor system from electrical source (pulled plug); removed 2 screws holding casing in place; removed it from the cooktop; & removed additional screw holding ignitor. Replaced ignitor and reversed the process. Done.

Removed two star screws from the top of the burner, disconnected the wire going to the Ignitor, removed the old ignitor held in with one phillips screw, installed new ignitor and re-installed the burner assembly. Simple!

Replaced the spark module. Make sure you mark the wire locations on the existing spark module and install them in the same slots.

I was able to repalce without pulling the cooktop out. The access is from the bottom.

Popped the old one off and installed the new one.

removed screws that hold burner in place lifted and removed wire connection, reversed attached wire replaced two screws job done,,,

First I removed the old damaged knobs by pulling upward on the knobs. Then I replaced the damaged knobs with the new knobs being careful to align the male and female connection. After installation I tested each burner for proper operation. As a final test, I asked my wife for her opinion. We're happy!

Charles & Dorothy