JGBP79WEW1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

opened top cover and bottom cover. removed broken parts and removed old connections. reconnected new wires and screws and put back the top cover and bottom cover.

Simply removed the cover screws, and the heat shield then removed the defective part, discarded it and re-installed, the new igniter and the associated heat shield cover and screws, then turned the gas back on and tried the oven it worked as advertised.

Remove the oven door by opening slightly and then gently lift it up and away. I was surprised at how easy it was to remove the door. Remove the wire wracks inside. Remove the bottom plate by unscrewing the holding screws in the back. Lift the plate from the back and it will slide out from the front lip. Depending on how much crud has accumulated you may have to gently move it from side to side to get the back to lift. Remove the lower drawer. Now you can work the oven away from the wall. Take the time to clean up any spills and etc. from the sides and the floor and cabinets. My oven was lighter than I expected when I moved it away from the wall and I had less stuff to clean around it so I was very lucky. It helps that I don't cook that much but I was annoyed at having to replace the igniter for the very same reason. Unplug the oven from the wall outlet.

My next step was to remove the top plate to access the broiler igniter. I had to unscrew the front pipe that feeds the gas to fully remove the plate then I put the screw back in so the pipe would not hang down. There are four screws in the top plate and I had to lay backwards in the oven to put them in again but it was a one-hand job removing them with a socket wrench.

I used two flashlights for most of the job but in the end I had to use a hanging light so I could illuminate the entire inside of the oven. I also took pictures of each igniter while they were in place and while they were still connected to the main connections.

Once the top plate was gone, I removed the cover on the back of the stove that covered the broiler igniter connection. Then I used one hand with a socket driver to remove the two screws holding the igniter. Due to the age of my oven the screws were challenging to remove and I broke one of them during the removal process. If this had been any other less risky environment I would have used lubricant but I didn't want any residue left inside. I disconnected the igniter from the rear and then pulled it free from the inside. I cut the wires close to the old igniter and then used the ceramic wire nuts to connect the old wire to the new igniter. I left the connections long to ensure I fed most of it back through the hole. I completed those connections and then moved on to the broiler. I replaced the back cover only after replacing both igniters. I used the new screws and the igniter held tightly with the one screw. The oven was too tight and the position of the plate was too awkward to try to drill out the old screw and the new plates provided with the igniter did not fit my oven.

The bottom igniter disconnected from beneath where the bottom drawer slides in. There is a white disconnect link and a flat head connector covered in a plastic protector. It was easy to disconnect those two. I rated this as A Bit Difficult because it was, but it would have been really easy if I had been able to remove the two screws holding the igniter faster than I had with the broiler one. The igniter hangs off the bottom gas pipe and very close to bottom of the oven. There is an opening where the wires feed up and the pipe connection feeds to the bottom of the oven. I could not get a socket wrench to fit easily. I managed to loosen the front screw a bit but then the socket wrench was useless. I couldn't use a nut driver because of the location. I was left using the closed end of a box wrench by touch and this is what took me hours to complete. If not for those screws I could have been done in 45 mins. The new screws went in by hand and I could not get them as tight as they were before, but the igniter was in there and level and as close to the plate as I could get it. I cut the wires close and fed them down the pipe. Attaching the first wire to the clip with one hand was darn near impossible. I almost lost the connection through the hole and then I would not have been happy since it would mean removing a back plate to get to it. I did manage it and the othe connection slid on w

First I removed 3 screws and took off cover plate. Next I removed 3 screws and took off old igniter. With power off to stove, removed wire nuts from old igniter. Very carfully replaced it with new part. 20 min

When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.

Turned off the electricity. Unscrewed bracket holder for igniter. Gently pulled igniter wires our from behind the metal wall. Twisted porcelain caps off to disconnect. Replaced with new igniter. A tight fit to get tools in but easy and quick.

ground off rear of knob 1/4" . Put on new knob and works fine. No longer have detents but can still read knob.

Instructions included were inadequate. Igniter is held to burner bracket with 2 screws, both of which broke and needed to be drilled out and replaced but were not included with igniter. Wires were not long enough to access ceramic wire nuts without removing oven.

Turned off electric power took out bottom drawer removed heat shield by removing 4 screws that held it in place then removed the two screws holding the Oven Igniter unplugged the wires. Put the old wire ends on the new part reversed the process it took about 20 to 25 minutes

I followed the instructions provided by others to remove the burner assembly to make it easier to access and remove the ignitor screws (1 screw top in front and 2 screws below burner assembly. Removing the entire burner made the repair much easier. Recommend reading through and following the instructions posted - VERY USEFUL info!!

followed instructions from your website . I have no problem.

I ordered the oven rack on a Tuesday and received it the very next day - was wowed at the service.

after watching several videos on replacing the igniter I was confident I could replace it but my oven was no where near like the video's after seeing mine inners it was much different the burner would not unplug . wasn't sure if it did due to the different videos, removed the screw from the burner and prop it up with a small block of wood and with a quarter inch drive ratchet removed the igniter the wires were plugged near the stoves extreme left also there was an other igniter at the top of the oven I replaced the bottom and thank god it worked

I located the spark module at back of top panel and I switched the wires of one of the other burners to the burner that wasn't lighting. By doing that I found that part of the module wasn't operating properly.

My husband did the repair so it was very easy for me, as well as for him, he found the bad part from your parts diagram which was a great help, he changed it out in no time and so we were both very Happy. Thank you for your help. Nancy & David