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$61.90
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Questions And Answers for JGB750EEF2ES
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Douglas
February 25, 2020
I have weak or no spark on the right top burners(front and back) when trying to ignite. Can you indicate which parts to inspect or replace to solve this issue
For model number JGB750EEF2ES
Hi Douglas,
Thank you for your question. A normally functioning igniter will typically click up to three times before it sparks. But, every now and then you may run into instances where the igniter continues to click or tick even after the burner is lit, or the burner never lights at all. A clicking igniter typically is not dangerous and may continue to click if the gas is shut off. One of the most common sources of this issue is that the burner cap is out of place. Make sure the cooktop is completely cooled and remove the Burner Grate to access the cap. Try removing the cap and center it on the base. If the burner cap is askew, it can prevent the burner from lighting. If that doesn’t work, check for moisture. If you recently had a pot boil over on burner, a food or grease spill, or cleaned the cooktop, there may still be moisture present even if it looks dry. Remove the burner cap and give the burner time to air dry. To speed up the process, make sure all the burners are off and towel off the top of the range. You can then either use a fan aimed at the range top or set your oven to 350°F and leave it on for around 30 minutes to speed up dry time. If you see that there is debris stuck in the holes in the burner, that could also potentially be the culprit. You can use a metal pin or paper clip to clear the debris out of the grooves. Never use items such as toothpicks to do this, they may break off and get lodged inside. If you get through all of these tips and still have the clicking problem, it may be the spark module, spark ignition switch or the igniter itself. You can find replacements for your model stove for purchase on our website. If you feel comfortable, this is a repair you can do yourself. But, if you are ever unsure do not hesitate to contact a technician and consult your owner’s manual. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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First, I removed the two screws that held the heat shield in place. Second, I removed the one screw that held a small wire covering. That covering kept the wires inside the back wall of the range. Third, I removed the two screws that held the Igniter Kit, and unplugged it from the back of the range. I then carefully put the new ignite
... Read morer in, and reassembled everything in reverse order. It only took about 30 minutes to do the repair, and 30 minutes of cleaning and wiping of the broiler area. (It is amazing what you see when you take things apart). I should have been wiping things up over the past few months. Overall, a very easy repair. I ordered the part at 12:30 in the afternoon, and FedEx delivered it the next morning at 11:30, all for the regular shipping price of $6.95. VERY HAPPY.....
first I thought it was a faulty gas valve, so I pulled it out, started researching for a replacement part, found your site and started research. I discovered thhat the igniter was the culprit, that info. saved me about a week of time and a 100 bucks, so I installed the gas safety valve back in the oven, patience is the word for the day,
... Read moreyou cross thread this and you are done! any way ordered ignighter and it shipped to my house in about 4 days, New York to Calif. had it installed in about 15 minutes fired off the oven and ...IT worked hurray...10-9-2010,
1. Pulled the 110V power plug. It was not necessary to turn off the gas; just be careful not to stretch or pinch the flexhose behind the stove. 2. Removed the oven door by opening a couple of inches then lifting upward. 3. Removed the warming drawer by pulling out to the stop, then pushing the small levers on the side of the t
... Read morerack to release. 4. Removed two flathead screws at the back of the oven to free up the oven bottom panel. 5. Removed the bottom panel by lifting up the pack until the front edge clears the overhang. 6. Removed the two screws on the side that hold the igniter to the burner tube. Be sure not to let the screws drop into the gaps in the oven floor. Note the position of the bent tab with the holes to ease aligning the new part. 7. Reached through the warming drawer to release the plug by squeezing the tabs on the end. 8. Pulled the plug up through the gap in the oven floor (where the wires went through) and connected it to the other connector. 9. Ran the new wire down through the oven floor. 10. Aligned the new igniter and tightened them. Had trouble getting the screws started so I used a toothpick to align one hole while starting the other screw. 11. Replaced the oven bottom panel. It needed a little jockeying to get the screws and holes aligned. 12. Replaced the door. 13. Replaced the oven drawer.
This turned out to be a good time to clean all those dusty places that don't get cleaned that often.