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Models > JFC2089HES > Instructions

JFC2089HES Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for JFC2089HES parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JFC2089HES
31-45 of 771
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Light Switch broke

  • Customer: James Richard from St. Cloud, MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 24 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

Had to replace a hose connector at the base of my refrig/frreezer

  • Customer: Leo from Salem, SC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 36 of 64 people found this instruction helpful
Perhaps a helpful hint:

When aI received the hose adapter/connector, I inserted the 2 hose ends only to have water drip from the connection.
I used a utility knife to remove an inch from each side, then reinserted the hoses. That made the differnce. Dry as a bone.

LG

Refrigerator stopped cooling

  • Customer: Rodolfo from South San Francisco, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 24 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Problem: My Maytag side by side door refrigerator just stopped cooling and has to discard all frozen items after I discovered being away for 3 days. First, I went to my computer and read some of the repair stories at Part Select “Need help with your repair?” and installation video guide.
1. I ordered the Refrigerator Adaptive Defrost Board (ADP) - followed the procedures how to disconnect and installed the new part. Unfortunately, it did not correct the problem and only warm is coming out.
2. I ordered the Defrost Heater Thermostat Assembly - removed the old and replaced with new assembly. Again, warm air coming out. Meanwhile, I kept on hearing “clicking sound every few second” not knowing where this coming from. Again, at Part Select, I read the story about it and I ordered the
Run Capacitor and the Overload/Relay with Capacitor. Soon as I opened the parts and tried to match it from the part at the back of the refrigerator and to the part from the compressor, I have discovered that they are not in compatible with the original parts from my Maytag Refrigerator and cannot be installed. And so I contacted (Email) Part Select customer service (Jeanette) if I could return the unused parts and had provided me the “Return address and the Reference Number”. This time, I gave Jeanette the Maytag Model and Serial numbers and asked where I could find this on my refrigerator and make the necessary repair and came back with the diagram and located #4 to the compressor. Ordered the correct part# PS2004058.
3. Upon receipt of the part above, I was puzzled, in the plastic container are four parts, included a plastic cover. I have not given up, I removed the original part encased in white plastic container pulled straight off the compressor and examined it closely. Before detaching all the wiring, I also noted before disconnecting from wire harness and read the Diagram/Instruction Sheet provided.
4. From the four new parts provided, installed the Overload Terminal, bottom part on Compressor with one terminal to the Blue wire. Connected White Jumper to the old harness. Lastly, I plugged the PTC Start Device (two terminals) above the Overload Terminal on the Compressor with the proper wiring as I previously noted and installed the electrical cover. “Plugged in the refrigerator to the power outlet”. To test the result, I left a glass of water inside the freezer and a bottle of wine into the refrigerator. The result - I checked after 2 hours, the water was frozen and a cool wine. “Little frustration included here, as I am not an electrician.” But now, I could say, I fixed it, and very proud of this accomplishment.
Thank You, PartSelect and to a great Customer Support!
Safety Note: Always make sure to unplugged the refrigerator (power off) prior doing the necessary repairs.
Rodolfo Julao/S. San Francisco, CA

Icemaker leaked water into ice bin causing a glob of ice

  • Customer: Kevin from Tyler, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Philips head screwdriver and ten minutes was all it took! I removed the two screws that hold the icemaker assembly in place, then pulled it out a little and disconnected the electrical plug freeing the icemaker assembly. Then I snapped the external parts off my old icemaker assembly and snapped them on the new icemaker assembly. Installing the new icemaker assembly was just as fast and easy. I snapped the electrical plug into the new icemaker assembly, then screwed in the two screws. It was making ice shortly thereafter. Glob free ice! I'm glad I didn't call a repairman. I probably saved a hundred bucks. A ten year old could accomplish this simple and easy task. No wonder the Maytag repairman has time on his hands.

No ice in ice maker

  • Customer: Dave from dunwoody, GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Turn water and refrigerator off, use hair to thaw the ice maker filler tube, then remove the filler tube inside the freezer. Next remove the water supply line cover plate in back of the refrigerator. Now remove the speed clip at the white pvc elbow and pull out the supply line. Next, grasp the pvc elbow with pliers and pull hard to remove. The new filler tube is a 1 piece design (filler tube and elbow combined) and needs to be cut to the proper length. Mark it inside the freezer, remove it and cut to length. Now coat the outside flange with caulk or PU glue and snap into the opening. Put the speed clip on the elbow first and center it. Ensure that the spreader insert is in place in the plastic tube, then slide the supply line into the elbow untill completely engaged. Replace cover.

The evap motor failed (no air movement inside of refrierater

  • Customer: John from Flagstaff, AZ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 20 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Removed screws from cover tested for power to motor found power was on to motor but motor did not work. I went to your web site was able to locate part in about 5 minutes . Even with over night shipping the part came to about $50,00, far cheaper tha a service call would have been.

Thanks John Paulsell

needed to replace filter

  • Customer: Marilynn from Holland, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 21 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Turned old one until it snapped out. Replaced it with a turn.

Would not make ice.

  • Customer: Stephen from Lanse, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
I changed out the water valve behind the refrigerator that controls when the ice maker and water dispencer receives water. It was easy. I removed the lower back panel to get access to the valve. Pulled the hoses out by pushing up on the ring between the valve and hose and the hose came right out. I disconected the power lines. Of course the water was disconected and power plug out prior to starting the job. I replaced the valve and reconnected the lines and power. I put the back panel back in place and turned the water on to check for leaks. The next day I had ice in the ice maker.

The controsl on my Triple Cool Climate control were not responding. I could not turen off alarms or change temperatures.

  • Customer: Ricardo from Whittier, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 29 of 55 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the plastic light shield. That snaps into place. Next I removed the plastic facade which snaps in from behind. It has plastic mounting points, I had to use a long straight screwdriver to do this. Then I unplugged the old board and replced with new.

Broken Hinge on the pantry drawer and cover.

  • Customer: Christopher from Huntingdon Valley, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the drawers above the pantry drawer. Then I took out the pantry drawer. I unsrewed 3 screws that attached the part to the refreg. I then removed the rails that were attached to the part I was repalcing and put them on the new part. I then install the new part. Put the firg back together. It was extremely easy and took about 5 minutes to do.

My original gaskets for the fridge and freezer doors seemed to have lost their magnetic hold

  • Customer: Julie from La Habra, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 24 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the freezer door and peeled out the freezer gasket, inserted the new gasket, and closed the door. I repeated this same process for each of the French doors on the refrigerator. This was very easy to do. The only issue is the replacement gaskets don't seem to have any better stick or magnetic hold than the original gaskets, so I'm not sure the repair will improve the energy efficiency / performance of the appliance.

The guide pin, which opens the crisper/pantry lid, broke off. It is integral to the end cap.

  • Customer: Dave from Seattle, WA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 19 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
First, I removed the drawers at the bottom of the fridge and then I removed the three hex head (7/32) screws that hold the end cap on. Then I disengaged the slider which connects to the temperature control for the pantry drawer. Then, unscrewed the drawer slides with a Phillips from the old end cap. Also the slide push rod has to be disengaged from the clips on the back of the endcap.

Then, I reinserted the push rod to the new end cap and reattached the drawer sliders and the slider itself. At this point I realized I SHOULD have unscrewed the temperature slider at the back where it covers the cold air outlet. The screw had slipped out. I replaced it with a slightly larger wood screw. Reinstall the drawers, all done.

Ice Maker broke at the begining of summer !!!!!!

  • Customer: Darrell from Pepperell, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.

I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.

I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!

I would definatly use partselect.com again.

Latch was broken on the filter cover and would not hold the filter in place.

  • Customer: Ken from St. Geogre Island, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 21 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
Ordered a new filter cover, received in 2 days and installed it in about 5 minutes. Worked perfectly.

Steady water leak.

  • Customer: Ben from Plainwell, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
It's good to note, first, that the dual water valve on Amana fridges are notorious for cracking and leaking, either due to the fridge being left in the cold (the water inside the valve freezes and expands, cracking the water valve) or from issues related to shipping. Read the reviews, here - it's a common issue, but easy and cheap to fix yourself. Here's my steps. I first turned off the water source to fridge by closing the correct valve. Next, I unplugged the fridge from electrical and from the water source line. When looking at the back of the fridge, I unscrewed the bottom left cover plate from the fridge body. After unscrewing and removing the plate, I made sure to note which lines came from which areas of the fridge and where the lines ended up at the dual water valve, and how they were routed through the plate and into the valve. The way this fridge is setup, the water source line screws into a main line that heads to the top of the fridge where the water filter is (like a "line in"). There's another line that heads back down to the bottom of the fridge (line out). The "line out" inserts into the outside plug of the dual water valve. The two lines coming out of the dual water valve are different sizes. Make sure to note which line goes to the icemaker and which line goes to the water dispenser inside the fridge. Once I knew which lines needed to go where, I grabbed my empty bucket, pulled the water lines out of the dual water valve with some pliers, and emptied the water into the bucket. After cleaning up any water splatter with my dry towels, I unscrewed the dual water valve from the plate. Once the old dual water valve was removed, I replaced it with the new valve and screwed it back into the plate. I cut off just a bit of the water line ends that were damaged due to pulling with the pliers, and then inserted them back into the correct spots on the dual water valve. I screwed the plate back into the fridge, reconnected the water source line (make sure to use some kind of water sealer tape or putty), plugged the fridge back into the electrical socket, turned the water source valve back on, and waited for leaks. No leaks! Once I was convinced there weren't any leaks, I had to bleed the water lines for about 20-30 minutes (it takes FOREVER...) by putting my bucket under the water dispenser inside the fridge and holding the water button for what seemed like an eternity - until the water was streaming steadily out of the dispenser. Voila! Good as new! Keep in mind that I didn't go through ALL the minute parts of each step - that would take too long. I'm believing that you'll be perceptive enough to catch the small things like looking at how the lines are routed into the dual water valve and where things are screwed into. Use your BRAIN, and you'll be fine. :-)
All Instructions for the JFC2089HES
31-45 of 771