Models > JEW9630AAW > Instructions

JEW9630AAW Jenn-Air Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for JEW9630AAW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JEW9630AAW
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Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat

  • Customer: David from Westford MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 70 of 79 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

F1-1 code

  • Customer: charles from marstons mills MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 27 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.

  • Customer: David from Arlington VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

Oven door doesn't completely close, light stays on

  • Customer: John from Harvard MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the hinges on the door, it wasn't that hard to do, a couple of minor things I had to overcome. But the new hinges still don't close the door completely. The light still comes on. I don't think the springs in the hinges are strong enough.

I asked for a particular part number in my order, the sales rep, said that wasn't the correct part number, and gave me a different part number. Now I'm not sure if the sales rep gave me the correct part or not.

Either way, I spent money for new hinges, and my own labor, and I still have the same problem.

I've placed calls with Jenn-air, and local technicians, but so far, do not have a solution to my problem. So overall, I'm not very happy.

Anyone got any ideas?

element started sparking and caught on fire

  • Customer: AL from TINLEY PARK IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
turned off breaker for oven,opened door, removed racks,removed two screws,pulled out the element, dis connected wires,reconnected new element,put back screws,replaced racks,turned breaker on,perfect fit.

Dim clock and oven display lights

  • Customer: Rollin from Petaluma CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Turn off power to oven. open top oven door and remove the four screws holding the display unit in place. Pull out on the bottom and lift up. Disconnect the wires and lay unit on counter.
Remove the four screws holding the clock display and replace with new part. Reassmble. Ahhh lights. Pray that you new unit doesn't burn out in four years. The end.

LED lights faded and eventually disappeared

  • Customer: Gorden from Silver Spring MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
First, I turned off the circuit breaker to the double over.
Second, I opened the oven door. At the top of the frame, underneath the panel are four screws (not evenly spaced) that I removed. I held onto the glass control panel, not wanting it to come down when I removed the screws, but this was unnecessary as there is a ridge in the back to keep it in place.
Third, I lifted out the glass control panel. There are two sets of wires going from the oven to the control panel. One set of wire connects in two places (three connections in total).
Fourth, I simply disconnected these wires from the chips (lifting them off), trivial. They all have different connectors, so there is no chance of getting them mixed up. If you have never touched any new electronics and are completely unfamiliar with plugging wires on a chip, you may take note of the orientations of the connectors), but it is fairly dummy-proof.
Fifth, there are four screws holding the display in place. Used the socket wrench for these (they go through the holes you see on the side of the unit in the picture).
Sixth, reversed the last operation, screwing the new display in place on the removed panel.
Seventh, Some of the teeth on the connector of my new display were bent over. I bent these straight so the connector would go over them, and reconnected the wires, carefully(!)
Eighth, slipped the glass panel in place. When seated properly, it does not shift.
Ninth, secured panel with the four initial screws.
Tenth, turned on the circuit breaker.
Eleventh, was shocked by how bright the new LED was!

Oven door wouldn't close completely

  • Customer: William from Statesville NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs aren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.

Oven wouldn't heat the right temperature (you would have to add 100 degrees on to it)

  • Customer: Claudine from Bethlehem PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

Constant beeping with error displayed; started during self-cleaning; could not reset

  • Customer: WILLIAM from RICHMOND TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Very simple.

First, TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BOX!

Unscrew the (built-in) oven from the wall / cabinet (4 screws). Unscrew the cover in front at top where the LED display is held, and pull it back, then pull two sets of wires off of the LED display PCB, so it can be put aside. Pull the oven out of the cabinet, sit it on a chair (because the 240V power feed metal cable is still attached). Unscrew the 7 1/4th-inch hex head screws holding the metal top cover on; remove the cover, which exposes the wires and sensors, etc. Unscrew the "relay board" PCB (1 screw) and detach it from the side, leaving all wires attached to the terminals. Then, one by one, remove the wires from the old PCB and attach them to the corresponding terminal on the new, replacement PCB. Screw the new PCB back onto the side of the oven top inside, screw the top metal cover back on, attach the wires to the front panel LCD and then screw the front panel back on. Push the oven back into the hole in the cabinet and screw it into the wood on the side and bottom (6 screws total).

Finally, turn the power back on (flip the circuit breaker on). Then observe: your oven is now no longer a digital boat anchor!

The only reason it took me longer than 30 minutes to finish this was that I had to recruit someone to help me lift the oven out of its cabinet. After doing so, however, I realized that I could have done it all by myself, simply by sliding it out onto a box or chair, but I didn't realize that ahead of time. It's not really that very heavy (but I would not recommend anyone who's not strong trying to do it alone, regardless). Anyway, if I had to do it again, it would only take about 10-15 minutes to accomplish.

The part itself colst about $180. When my usually very reasonably-priced appliance repairman quoted a price of $450 to $500 to do this repair, even after I told him specifically which part was obviously bad (which he would have to order or pick it up), I decided that only an idiot would be unable to do this repair by himself.

defective oven sensor

  • Customer: sean from easthampton MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

Code said we needed a sensor

  • Customer: Janice from Portland OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

Lower oven intermittant operation-cleaning

  • Customer: Keith from Canyon Lake CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Diagnosis is the important aspect. Ovens have plunger-type switches to tell the "brain" door is closed, both for the light AND to allow initiation of self cleaning. Finally discovered one of those switches was "scratchy" in operation and unreliable in closing the circuit. (Push the plungers in and out several times and observe the light.) If not 100% reliable, replace that switch (cheap and easy with a Phillips screwdriver.) Initial guess was a $major "brain"-electronics problem but it was merely a sticky switch. Strange since the unit is about a year and a half old and rarely used. Found the part easily with PartSelect, and it came via UPS quickly.

oven door gasket was no longer flexible, but stiff

  • Customer: cheryl from dolores CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
pulled out the old door gasket, it had little diamond-shaped clips, pulled out really easily, replaced with the new gasket. All the clips fit into the proper holes, stuffed the new ends where the old ones were. Perfect. less than 10 minutes. Thanks....

1998 oven unit flashing F3

  • Customer: chris from houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.
All Instructions for the JEW9630AAW
1-15 of 157