Models > JEW8627AAW > Instructions

JEW8627AAW Jenn-Air Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for JEW8627AAW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JEW8627AAW
1-15 of 158
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat

  • Customer: David from Westford MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 62 of 67 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

F1-1 code

  • Customer: charles from marstons mills MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 23 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.

  • Customer: David from Arlington VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

Oven door doesn't completely close, light stays on

  • Customer: John from Harvard MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the hinges on the door, it wasn't that hard to do, a couple of minor things I had to overcome. But the new hinges still don't close the door completely. The light still comes on. I don't think the springs in the hinges are strong enough.

I asked for a particular part number in my order, the sales rep, said that wasn't the correct part number, and gave me a different part number. Now I'm not sure if the sales rep gave me the correct part or not.

Either way, I spent money for new hinges, and my own labor, and I still have the same problem.

I've placed calls with Jenn-air, and local technicians, but so far, do not have a solution to my problem. So overall, I'm not very happy.

Anyone got any ideas?

baking element burnt out

  • Customer: Kathy from Powder Springs GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
It was so easy....a cave man could do it.

Power off to oven, 2 screws, swapped the elements, 2 screws back in. Keep the original screws. The only delay we had was the right screw was a little hard to "start".
Once we had it tightened up, we turned the breaker back on and wah la....we had our oven back!

Shipping was much faster than expected!

Dim clock and oven display lights

  • Customer: Rollin from Petaluma CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Turn off power to oven. open top oven door and remove the four screws holding the display unit in place. Pull out on the bottom and lift up. Disconnect the wires and lay unit on counter.
Remove the four screws holding the clock display and replace with new part. Reassmble. Ahhh lights. Pray that you new unit doesn't burn out in four years. The end.

Oven door wouldn't close completely

  • Customer: William from Statesville NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs aren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.

defective oven sensor

  • Customer: sean from easthampton MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

Lower oven intermittant operation-cleaning

  • Customer: Keith from Canyon Lake CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Diagnosis is the important aspect. Ovens have plunger-type switches to tell the "brain" door is closed, both for the light AND to allow initiation of self cleaning. Finally discovered one of those switches was "scratchy" in operation and unreliable in closing the circuit. (Push the plungers in and out several times and observe the light.) If not 100% reliable, replace that switch (cheap and easy with a Phillips screwdriver.) Initial guess was a $major "brain"-electronics problem but it was merely a sticky switch. Strange since the unit is about a year and a half old and rarely used. Found the part easily with PartSelect, and it came via UPS quickly.

LED lights faded and eventually disappeared

  • Customer: Gorden from Silver Spring MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First, I turned off the circuit breaker to the double over.
Second, I opened the oven door. At the top of the frame, underneath the panel are four screws (not evenly spaced) that I removed. I held onto the glass control panel, not wanting it to come down when I removed the screws, but this was unnecessary as there is a ridge in the back to keep it in place.
Third, I lifted out the glass control panel. There are two sets of wires going from the oven to the control panel. One set of wire connects in two places (three connections in total).
Fourth, I simply disconnected these wires from the chips (lifting them off), trivial. They all have different connectors, so there is no chance of getting them mixed up. If you have never touched any new electronics and are completely unfamiliar with plugging wires on a chip, you may take note of the orientations of the connectors), but it is fairly dummy-proof.
Fifth, there are four screws holding the display in place. Used the socket wrench for these (they go through the holes you see on the side of the unit in the picture).
Sixth, reversed the last operation, screwing the new display in place on the removed panel.
Seventh, Some of the teeth on the connector of my new display were bent over. I bent these straight so the connector would go over them, and reconnected the wires, carefully(!)
Eighth, slipped the glass panel in place. When seated properly, it does not shift.
Ninth, secured panel with the four initial screws.
Tenth, turned on the circuit breaker.
Eleventh, was shocked by how bright the new LED was!

Oven door hinges broken

  • Customer: Russ from Jacksboro TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the door then the end caps and inner panel then the hinge system and replaced with the one piece new set of hinges and back together done in 30 to 45 minutes The new parts were a perfect replacement.

Oven Door wouldn't fully close and light stayed on.

  • Customer: Jeff from Fremont CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Remove oven door by removing chrome flat plate that holds the hinge in place (one screw at each hinge) and LIFT door off oven. There is a hole in the hinge that you can stick a small nail through to hold the hinge in the "partially open" position for easier removal and replacement of the door (I didn't know this until I received the new hinges, which have a removeable pin in the hole.) After door is off, remove three screws each, on the top and bottom of door, to remove the back half of door and expose the hinges. Remove one screw from bottom of door that holds bottom of hinge in place. Lift out hinge bottom and unhook top of hinge. Reverse process to reassemble. Remove small pins by opening oven door fully. The new hinges did solve the problem. You have to order two hinges for each door. They are NOT sold as pairs.

Double convection oven cooling fan was failing, making a loud noise.

  • Customer: Thomas from Chelsea MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Turned the circuit breaker to "off"
Unbolted the unit from its cabinet (4 screws - visible when the oven doors are open - secured the unit in its cabinet)
Slid the unit out of the wall about 2 inches
Removed the control panel.
Unbolted the cooling fan assembly
Unplugged the assembly from the wiring harness
Removed the cooling fan from the oven

Plugged in the new cooling fan
Bolted the new fan in place
Replaced the control panel
Slid the unit back into position
Bolted the unit in place
Turned the circuit breaker back on
Tested

No problems - the hardest part was having to reach to the back of the oven from the front.

Built in oven would shut down: fault code F-4

  • Customer: Edward from Juliustown NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

Code said we needed a sensor

  • Customer: Janice from Portland OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.
All Instructions for the JEW8627AAW
1-15 of 158