This ceramic microwave fuse is just over an inch in length. It is white in the center, and metal on both ends. This is a 20-amp fuse, and is used to power your microwave. If the touch pad on the micro...
The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open (normally opened). The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates w...
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Judy
August 31, 2023
What is the wattage of this microwave, and the cu. ft.
There are no specifications anywhere on the microwave or owner’s manual!
For model number JES1231WC001
Hi Judy, thank you for contacting us. According to our research, the capacity of your model is 1.20 cu ft and the wattage is 1,100 W. We hope this information helps!
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Moises
January 31, 2020
Why would my microwave make a buzzing noise when I try to heat food?? It is not heating food, but everything else is working perfectly fine
For model number JES1231WC001
Hi Moises,
Thank you for your question. If you are hearing a buzzing or a humming sound and the microwave is not heating, a high voltage component in the microwave has failed and you will need to check the magnetron and the diode to see which part is causing the issue. To avoid injury when checking these parts, you will need to release the potentially dangerous charge from the capacitor by using an insulated pair of needle nose pliers to touch both terminals simultaneously. Be careful not to touch the metal portion of the tool. To test the magnetron, verify that you have disconnected the appliance from the power source. In order to access the magnetron, you will need to remove the appliance’s cabinet. Next, discharge the high voltage capacitor, then verify that the high voltage diode is working and that the mounting bolts are tight. Remove the magnetron to test it if no other issues are found. Using a multimeter on Rx1, touch the probes to the terminals, this should produce a reading of two to three ohms of resistance. Next, move one probe to touch the metal housing of the magnetron. This test shouldn’t indicate that continuity is present. If the results of your test do not match the results above, you will need a replacement magnetron. To test the diode, Unplug your microwave before beginning this inspection. Locate and remove your high voltage diode to test it for continuity. To access it, you will first need to remove the cabinet and discharge the high voltage capacitor. Set your multimeter to Rx1 and touch the probes to the terminals. Next, reverse the probes to check for continuity in the other direction. You should receive a reading that shows continuity in one direction, but not the other direction. If your diode does not show continuity, or shows continuity in both directions, you will need a replacement high voltage diode. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.
First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.
The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the mic
... Read morerowave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on
... Read more this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.