Models > JEM31SF001 > Instructions

JEM31SF001 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

All installation instructions for JEM31SF001 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the microwave repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JEM31SF001
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Microwave Cooking Tray Missing

  • Customer: Chris from Elmhurst NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 519 of 583 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered a microwave cooking tray from PartSelect; userfriendly site; and within two days, my part was delievered and easily installed. Thank you PartSelect!

Broken oven tray

  • Customer: Scott from Atlanta GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 438 of 516 people found this instruction helpful
replace new tray with no tools needed

cooking tray brook

  • Customer: Giuseppe from Elmwood Park IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 138 of 216 people found this instruction helpful
none

cooking tray (glass) broke

  • Customer: Magda from Beverly Hills MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 147 of 286 people found this instruction helpful
Took out broken piece
Called GE Parts to order replacement
Upon arrival, opened package, took out new part, inserted it where old part had been.

Broken carousel plate

  • Customer: Ronald from Casa Grande AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 142 of 281 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the microwave door and put the new plate on the carousel. Duh!

the cooking tray went crash!

  • Customer: lisa from monroe township nj NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 141 of 280 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered on tuesday right before Thanksgiving and was sick my tray plate broke with a house full of company comming for the holiday and no microwave low and behold i ordered on tuesday and it was at my door on wednesday what a shock i will forever be a loyal customer thanks part select!!!

light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up

  • Customer: Marla from Arlington TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 80 of 99 people found this instruction helpful
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.

Broken Cooking Tray

  • Customer: Berney from Madison AL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 139 of 278 people found this instruction helpful
Just placed the new tray in the microwave. Simple as that.

broke the glass cooking tray in my microwave

  • Customer: Cynthia from Chapel Hill NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 139 of 279 people found this instruction helpful
It was easy. went to GE website and click onto parts replacement. Placed my order and within three business days the new glass tray arrived. How easy was that....

Oven would not power up

  • Customer: Andras from Lexington MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 23 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
There are 4 thermostats (aka TCO = Thermal Cut Out) in the GE JVM1440BH04
The schematic is under the cover in a black envelope to the top left of the unit if you face the door.

Check the fuse first. You can remove the front grate, then the numpad on the right. The fuse is right behind it. It's a 250V 20A Class F fuse.

There are four (4) TCOs or Thermal Cut Out thermostats in this puppy:

1) There is a thermostat behind the button panel to the left, facing down. If blown, it breaks the power coming into the unit and will cause a no power situation.

2) There is another TCO or thermostat near the top lamp, to the left, in a small cavity. That one also breaks power to the unit and will cause a no power situation. It's a 100 C / 0 C thermostat. This was the one that blew on me after I left the stove running (for heating in a black-out) under the microwave.


"Cavity TCO" or "Thermostat" part number 61 on the schematics, part number PS239319


3) There is yet another power-breaking TCO or thermostat in the cavity behind the fan that cools the microwave coils. You have to remove the sheet metal on the right of the microwave to access it. This one also breaks power and will cause a no power situation.

1), 2) and 3) should test out to be 0 Ohms with a resistance meter (Digital Multimeter) if working correctly.

4) There is a thermostat which normally does not let current through it. It is mounted in a vertical position to the back wall behind the front panel on the right. This one is used for the sensor reheat function apparently and will close when the temperature in the microwave reaches approx. 60 C.

4) should have infinite resistance with a resistance meter under normal circumstances.

Turntable won't move, no heat -but light and fan ok.

  • Customer: Sean from San Jose CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the 2 Torx-15 screws at left of control panel. Work the control panel out by pulling slightly to the left first - it is engaged to the slotted holes to the right.

Remove the door's upper switch by lifting the tab and pulling out the switch carefully. To install the new switch, you may have to remove 2 philips screws holding the plastic assembly where the switches are mounted to the metal frame.

Diagrams on the website are misleading b/c the switch shown up on top of the other 2 switches is the switch w/ the NC (upper) terminal while you'll need the NO (lower) terminal for this repair (symptoms are: turntable won't move, no heat -but light and fan ok). I should have called before ordering the part (had to pay shipping twice)...

Once I got the right part, it works just like before.

Microwave Fan Turned on When Door Was Opened

  • Customer: Bishop from Coupland TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
To get to the switches you need to remove the metal cover/housing of the microwave, by first removing several screws that hold it in place, and then sliding the cover towards the back of the unit. You'll find the switches in some plastic holders above the door-open button, and it's its easy to see how the mechanism engages/disengages the switches when the door is opened and closed.

If it is not obvious which switch is bad, in our case the bad switch felt "soft" when we pressed the switch button with our fingers. A good switch has a firm "click" when pressed.

The switches are easy to replace - pop out the old switch (no tools required) and pull off the electrical connectors. Then pop in the new switch and reattach the connectors.

All electircal functions worked except the heating mechanism

  • Customer: Chad from Firestone CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
A great place to start is to reveiw the posting from "Marla From Arlington TX" posted on 8-3-09. It provides an excellent description of the process that you will need to follow. The only additional thing that I would add is to check the contacts on the switches. In my case I found that all three of the switches had a small build-up of corrosion. I used sandpaper to clean the contacts. Because none of the switches had a "soft" click to them, it was hard to identify the bad one. I basically picked the worse looking one and then cleaned the contacts of the other two. I'm not sure if I actually even had a bad switch or if they all just needed cleaning. Whatever the case, it worked. I would suggest checking the contacts first. You may get away with not having to replace any of the switches. And in my case what makes me think that it may have just simply been dirty contacts is that the heating mechanism would engage every now and then. It wasn't dead 100 percent of the time. It's worth a try anyway.

Not working as far as heating or cooking

  • Customer: Theodore from Medical Lake WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 59 of 157 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced High Voltage Diode. Very carfully due to the extream danger of a electrical shock.

Everything worked on the microwave, except it would not heat anything.

  • Customer: Randy from Ottawa IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The microwave had been working fine until one day when the timer counted down but the heating motor (or whatever you call it) would not come on. So the timer would count down but nothing inside would get hot. I did not know what it was for sure but decided to take it apart and look. Once I had the control panal off, I found three small wired switches inside. One of these switches appeared to have shorted out. So I searched online and found Partselect.com. I found a matching switch , ordered it (arrived in couple days), put it in, and VOILA it works! Thanks Partselect.com.
All Instructions for the JEM31SF001
1-15 of 54