JE1240L01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Removed microwave from enclosure and removed cover, hoping it was as simple as a blown fuse. Found extremely helpful diagnostic sheet thoughtfully provided by manufacturer in an envelope affixed to top of cavity. Fuse was fine, but tracing the power feed into the machine revealed that the oven cavity thermostat was open--no continuity across it, and the diagnostic sheet indicated that it was non-resettable. Verified the issue by temporarily by-passing the blown thermostat to ascertain that the front panel display got power. It took longer to get the screws for the cover and enclosure back on than it did to replace the thermostat, once I received the replacement part. Microwave works just fine now, thanks!

Fortunately, my brother-in-law suggested it might be the "cut out" switch. After unplugging the microwave, I opened it up and identified one of two cut outs and removed the wires from each side of the cut out. To test if that was the problem, I connected the two wires together, bypassing the cut out. When I plugged the unit back into the wall socket, the lights came back on, and i ran the microwave for a few seconds. It verified that this was the problem. I ordered the part and when it arrived, I removed it with a philips screw driver and replaced it with the new one. I replaced the screw, buttoned the unit back up, plugged it in, and saved a few hundred bucks on a replacement microwave, and as important, saved our landfills and planet a tiny but.

Took the cabinet off the microwave and checked for a fuse. Found that it was good, then checked for the voltage path to the controls and found the cavity thermal cut out was not conducting. Using a voltage meter to check things. Unplug the microwave for several of the tests. You must know how to work with electricity to do this. Installed the new part and the microwave now works. As a hint to what had happened my wife had heated a large casserole then right after that went to heat a smaller dish. At that time the microwave was hot and did not restart.

Per the troubleshooting diagram inside the microwave oven, I discovered the one of the TCO was open (using Ohmmeter). Found my microwave oven model on PartSelect and used the diagram to select the TCO needed and placed order. Part came in three days, installed new TCO, reconnected wires and the microwave oven was back working in 10 minutes.

Took the cover off (removed the five screws, two of which were security screws off the back) and found one connector on the thermal cut out with its shielding melted. Very easy swap out of the new cut out and we were up and running as if new.

this is not fair to the do it yourself person because I have been an electrican for forty one years I removed the cover spotted the burnt limit switch ordered the part replaced the part and checked operation of the microwave thanks for the painless task of locating and ordering of needed part

I thought I was setting the timer only on the microwave and accidently cooked an empty oven for 10 minutes. It was dead and I used the schematic and figured out the problem. Got the part and installed in 10 or less minutes. Oven is back in action.

Relatively simple for skilled person.

I had a bad cut off sensor on oven cavity I ran the Microwave with nothing in it and it smoked I ran it for another 6 months then 1 day I was heating water and it stop- working. I put a new tube in might be Okay but I was not going to risk it taking another cut off sensor on overload. You have to change sensor and put on a new tube. Clearly it would be cheaper to buy a new unit but it was only 2 years old and I am an old tech and was curious. The sensor cost only 16 bucks new tube about 55 a replace brand new oven 81 bucks there you have it I was stubborn and going to get that sucker back into operation I had another oven go out the same way

20 month old GE m/w had made "electrical" smells from beginning. Finally unit failed to turn on. Disassembly was easy except that I needed to buy anti-tamper screw driver bits from Sears to remove two screws. Found the blade connector to the sensor was a loose fit, resulting in severe heating at the connection. Plastic connector was melted and sensor was damaged to the extent this seems a possible fire hazard. Replacing the sensor is trivial, and requires removing one Phillips head screw. Reterminating the defective connector requires basic electrical skills; wire stripping and crimping. Be sure to clip a few millimeters of wire to get undamaged copper. Be sure to replace both connectors if connections feel at all loose. M/w reassembly is trivial.

I googled "Microwave stopped working", and after reviewing numerous websites with suggestions, I found the response noted below at "Help Owl" which was the most straighfoward and clear explanation to trouble shoot the problem. I first tested the Thermal Cut Out (TCO) per the instructions below and that was the problem. I didn't have to test the electrical fuse. Turns out that you cannot typically use the microwave continuously for more the 12 or 13 minutes or it may overheat and the TCO will shut it down. Extremely easy to test for and fix, and the part is only $15! See Trouble Shooting steps as follows: Make sure that the unit is vented properly and that if you are using it for prolonged periods while cooking, that you turn-on the vent fan.
If there is no display / power within the unit...first check your power source where you plug the unit into the wall.

If that is good, Remove the Cabinette/Cover "Note: it has 3-Torx Anti-Tamper Screws".

Then as you face the microwave from the rear, at the left rear corner is a small circuit board with a fuse. "Check the Fuse"

If the fuse is good, Check the following:

1 - The most common component failure is the "Cabinette TCO" (Thermal Cut-Off Thermostat).

As you face the microwave from the rear...It is located under the cover, on top, on the left front corner area.

It is a Circular, Black & Silver Disc Shaped component about the size of a dime in diameter and is about 1/2" in height.

It has Two (2) Wires attached to it's spade connectors and it acts as a safety fuse.

"IF YOU PUT AN INSULATED JUMPER WIRE ACROSS THE 2 TERMINALS THE POWER SHOULD RETURN AND THE DISPLAY WILL LIGHT"

Anything other than these two items should be checked by an Authorized Service Technician as these microwaves have components thay carry "HIGH VOLTAGE SHOCK HAZZARDS"

Remove cover-the hardest part, as I needed to buy a new set of driver bits that included the dimpled security drivers to remove three screws. GE includes schematic and troubleshooting flow chart with the unit, taped inside the cover. Required more time to look up the part on-line and order it than time used to make the repair.

I removed the cover this required a special star Apex tip witha hole in the center. $10 for a set at Lowes.Replaced the fuse and Thermal cut out at the same time. The oven woks like a charm.I would like to add that GE customer service was no help basically told me that it was a throw away unit. If they built it you can fix it.Hope this helps any DIY breathern outthere.

Took the screws out that held the oven case on. Looked around and found a connection on the oven cavity thermal cut out the plastic melted and black looking. I knew this was the problem but I checked the fuse anyway and the fuse was good, so I ordered the part from part select and they shipped it out fast and now my microwave is working again.

Removed cover. Found oven flame thermal cutout and measured across the terminals with an ohmmeter. Found no continuity. Thermal cutout wasn't allowing a complete path for input line. Ordered the oven cutout and 2 days later I installed the new part, re-assembled the oven cover and Voila! Fixed. Simple repair saved my friend from having to purchase a new microwave.