JDS9860AAP Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Assembly took a little while, but that had to do with the stove, not with the element you provided. Turned it on and it looks like it's working well. (It's been so hot I haven't cooked since putting the new one in, so we'll see how that goes. But, when tested, it heated right up).

Removed two screws holding oven sensor in place. Haad to remove part of the back to access wires. Found existing wires had burnt up, and had to reterminate same. Installed new sensor, making sure the leads did not come in contact with the rear of oven compartment. (This may have been what caused failure to begin with)

I'm the world's worst handy man, but after watching the repair video on PartSelect I determined I might could do this repair. I ordered the part and replaced the element in less than 10 minutes! I also saved $160.00 by doing it myself!

The "PartsSelect" General discription of the parts funtion helped me to confirm my suspitions that there was some form of temperature registering problem. I whatched the short video they provided on how to change the part out, even though, in this case, it's pretty self explanitory.The part was in my hands a day erlier than promised and in reality, much earlier than I had anticipated from the beginng. It took me all total, 20 minutes to exchange the part out and have the oven in operation again.

The sensor inserts into a slot in the back side of the range. By removing screws on the heat shield on the backside of the range, the sensor wires will be exposed can be unplugged. Then remove the screws that attach the sensor to the back inside panel in the oven. Next, pull the old sensor out. The wire leads will get caught on the insulation blanket, no big deal. Reverse the process to install the new sensor. The new sensor comes with two connector sets for the wiring. I did the whole job for less than the cost of a service call.

Removed burner pan screws,igniters, gas tubes & burners. Changed 2 igniters, removed rust & repainted ends of 2 of the tubes (heatproof paint). New burners were made a hair smaller than original but locked in O.K...Now, the hard part...disconnected all four tubes from gas valve assembly. (Had to shut off gas to house in order to remove main gas line to stovetop.) Had to remove valve box in order to remove/replace frozen valve. Unit is 25 years old, works as and looks new...Rust was caused by boil-overs.

I am a 60 year old women and I was so amazed that this was so easy, Except for whom ever put in striped screw before, got that out with a pliers. Thanks for your video online. Beautiful.

1. turned off the breaker delivering power to the oven. 2. removed the grates. 3. unscrewed the 2 screws holding the element in place and gently pulled the2 ends of the element from the rear of the oven. 4. disconnected the 2 power connections from the element being careful not to have them slip back into the insulation at the rear of the oven. 5 removed the element and connected the new element to the power sources - this was the most difficult task, with little wire extending from the back of the oven it required delicate handling and certainty that the connection was solid. 6. slid the 2 prongs of the element into the rear of the oven. 7. installed the 2 screws. 8. replaced the grates.

Unscrew the bottom cover, remove the old ignitor. Reverse the process to install. Hardest part was getting the bottom cover screws out because of rust. Otherwise, very simple.

Watched the accompanying video on the website. Very glad I did as the key thing to remember when replaceing the bake element is that the connecting wires ARE VERY SHORT and can easily snap back inside the element lead hole in the back of the oven. Lead on the left side had a small amount of play but the right side element wire was extremely short and "snapped" back into the hole. I had to use needle nose pliers to pull it back through. Just take your time and keep your fingers on the leads as best you can.

replaced burner

The bake element repair itself was very easy and straightforward. The difficulty and extra time involved relates to improper wiring of the electrical circuit the range plugged into. A previous homeowner had apparently taken a shortcut when repairing a faulty di-pole circuit breaker and routed one side of the 240v circuit through a separate single-pole breaker which is a blatant electrical code violation. After replacing the faulty di-pole breaker and wiring the circuit properly the bake element repair was simple and the oven is working great. While most DIY folks will not run into this same problem with an improperly wired electrical circuit it pays to be cautious. I relied on the di-pole breaker to cut power to the oven during the repair but because one side of the circuit had been rerouted I received a nasty shock. Please do what I failed to do originally: unplug the range/oven at the wall before making the repair. And if you suspect improper wiring of the 240v circuit, please consult an electrician as it is a dangerous situation.

I removed the old sensor via the two screws holding it in, unplugged it and replaced it with a new one.

I called my son, left the part, two screw drivers out, went to work, came home and was able to use my oven again! It couldn't have been easier and I made him some zucchine cake as a thank you for doing the job! It was easy to order and pay for the part online, get the part within a week and I was back in business. Thanks for being available to make getting the part a no-hassle experience.

Repair was super easy, Remove Screws. (the hardest part was trying to remove the edging of the door without cracking it, or breaking the tabs used to secure it) Once I got the edges off, I slid the front of the door off, removed the screws and braces holding the outer glass. Picked out the broken pieces, cleaned all the glass and inside the door and put it all back together. If I didn't clean everything, it would've taken half the time.