Models > JDR8895AAS > Instructions

JDR8895AAS Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for JDR8895AAS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JDR8895AAS
61-75 of 300
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Lower bake element burned in two piecies.

  • Customer: Edward from Whitney TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
First I unpluged the range from the power source. Then I removed the back cover, disconnected the two wires to the element, remover two screws on the inside of the oven the held the element in place and removed it. I then installed the new element in the reverse order. This took about one day to get the new part and 15 to 20 mins to do the repairs. I figured that I saved at least $55 on a repairman service call.

door seal contaminated by a boil-over, not flexible

  • Customer: Rob from Yakima WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.

Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation

  • Customer: John from Ashland OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

broken oven door inner glass pane.

  • Customer: Adam from modesto CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the door, remove screws from all sides

Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.

Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.

Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.

Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.

Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)

reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.

Replace the oven Sensor

  • Customer: Michael from Exeter NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

Lower element in oven burned out

  • Customer: Tom from Plainwell MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
When the element failed, it continued to glow nearly white-hot and slowly burned along a spiral path on the element. I figured this MUST be due to a voltage leak - the control was OFF on the range.

I shut off the breaker, removed the two screws where the element goes through the back of the oven, pulled the element forward and pulled the wires off of the element. (Found it handy to twist the wire connectors outward to prevent the wires from slipping through the back of the oven.)

A new element won't "fit" exactly but you can easily push it into position to get the screw holes to line up. Total time was less than 15 minutes.

Oven wouldn't heat

  • Customer: lou from spring grove IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Installed new element . Connected two wires pushed in place install the two screws.Done....

Racks were dark and dirty

  • Customer: Geraldine from Germantown NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
The first set of racks did not fit. I called the Service rep, gave him the model number and exchanged the racks for the new ones. The new ones fit perfectly and the service was excellent. I would definitely recommend PartSelect.com to anyone who wants to deal with a company with excellent service, parts and representatives who know their stuff.

oven not heating to set temp. 100 degrees too cold

  • Customer: Robert from Funston GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

Oven was not correctly heating to set temperature

  • Customer: Trace from Ofallon MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

Upper broil element starting getting super hot. I think it actually started melting! Obviously had to be replaced.......

  • Customer: Cameron from La Grange Park IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Make sure you unplug your stove before you start! You should probably shut off the power at the breaker box too.

Since the upper oven is so small, I found that I couldn't reach the connectors well enough to work with them. So I pulled out the whole oven, took the screws off the back cover and from the back I was able to easily reach where the wires connected to the element. Then it was a piece of cake.

Just use a small knife to unbend the little metal things that hold on to the metal ends of the element. Slide them on to the new element, and crimp them tight with pliers.

Oh, you also have to take off the bracket on the ceiling of the inside of the oven to get the old element out, and the new one in.

The oven has been working great!

Broken levelling leg

  • Customer: Linda from Oneida NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

element inop

  • Customer: Ronald from Bullhead City AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
remove two screws, remove two slide on wire connections and remove element. reverse to install.

Door gasket was hard and brittle from baked-on grease - heat leaking around door

  • Customer: Harlen from Spring Creek NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.

Igniter switch shorted out and would not stop "clicking"

  • Customer: Steve from Everett WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
This is not a hard fix but don't believe the stories that say it'll take 15 minutes. Took me a little over an hour to uninstall the part - maybe 30 minutes to put it together again. Easy to intermediate fix.

First - kill the power using the circuit breaker, pull out the range from the wall & shut off the gas line. Unscrew two screws on the underside of the rangetop (open the oven door to access) then remove a couple more on top by the knobs. After that the top will lift up a bit. Then disconnect the 5 gas line fittings on the manifold & the main gas fitting into the manifold. Remove the back panel to unplug the wire connected to the switch. Now pull out the manifold that has the igniter switch on top. That's about it. When you look at the existing part you can easily see how the new part attaches to the manifold.

Install part & put everything back together.

The cost was around $46 total - hard to beat that!
All Instructions for the JDR8895AAS
61-75 of 300