Models > JDR8895AAS > Instructions

JDR8895AAS Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for JDR8895AAS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JDR8895AAS
211-225 of 300
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

The oven was not heating up to temperature

  • Customer: Max from Bothell WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the oven sensor which was easy to replace. A pigtail wire was provided with the sensor which is intended to be installed first so you don't have to reach around the front and back of the oven at the same time. The replacement was easy. However, that turned out not to be the problem. The real problem was the maytag electronic clock control timer, temperature control unit. The part number is 7601P177-60. This device has been discontinued and I was fortunate enough to find the part at a local supplier. Once I replaced this, the problem went away. The oven heats up normally. My original symptom was that when setting the oven temperature to something like 350 degrees, the display would rapidly report heating up the oven to that temperature, and the oven was only mildly warm. If you have that symptom, it is probably not the oven sensor. It is the electronic clock unit. Hope you can find one. If you can't, I think you need to by a new oven. Regards

Terminal block arc'ed because a wire had become loose.

  • Customer: Larry from Scranton KS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

Temp spikes.

  • Customer: Wayne from Grantsburg WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Remove sensor from oven. Disconnected wire from back. Connected new sensor and reinstalled. Temps now stay stable.

Had code F1 and F3 on my oven. Oven wouldn't heat.

  • Customer: Cindy from Polson MT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Watched the video and it was as easy as described. Not many things go as easily as this.

the lower oven heating element had burnt in two

  • Customer: David from Huntington Beach CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
repair was simple--removed the two screws that held the element to the rear panel then disconnected the spade connectors and attached them to the new element. you have to do one connector at a time as there is the danger of the short wire lead slipping back through the hole in the rear panel if you let go, so lay the new element under the old during the transfer. Once the connectors are in place, insert the connectors through the holes in the rear and install the two retaining screws.

Oven would not heat

  • Customer: francis from mount holley VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

Lower Bake Elemement Needing Replacing

  • Customer: Sherry from Charlotte NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Cut the power to the oven off so I didn't have to pull the oven out fromt the wall --> took off the oven door (no screws involved)--> unscrewed the piece in the oven and pulled the connectors off and out so they wouldn't fall back through the hole --> connected connectors to the new element and screwed it back in --> done

bake element heated to red hot and snapped

  • Customer: Mary from Arlington VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed two Phillips screws and plugged the new bake element in. When you order part beware, there are three #2's

Replace burned out heating element in lower oven

  • Customer: Bruce from Muskego WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off 220 volt power to stove at circuit breaker box (important). Removed lower oven door (easy). Removed burned-out element by removing two screws and detaching element from wires. Attached new element and refastened the two screws. Replaced oven door. Turned power back on. Nothing to it.

Inner glass oven cracked

  • Customer: Christine from Eureka NV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
The feedback from other customers was excellent. It does come apart in layers, and it helped me to number each layer with a sticky note as I dismantled it. I also kept the screws for each layer right next to the layer, so that I knew how many screws each layer used. The only thing I can add is that the tabs to remove the innermost glass from the frame are on one of the shorter sides of the rectangular frame. The tabs are part of the frame, and when you bend them outward the side of the frame detaches and you can replace the glass easily. In addition to the #1 Philips screwdriver, all I needed was a pair of pliers to bend the tabs.

Bottom burner malfunctioned

  • Customer: Joseph from Bradenton FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I used the Internet website to find the part and called customer service to make sure I had the right part (Part #PS236249Z) and this wonderful lady confirmed I had actually done some good research. A day or two later the burner arrived and I installed it in about 10 minutes and it worked perfectly. To understand just how great this was you have to understand I am a CPA with no skills at repair, but with your assistance all went well. Thank you so very much. And again, what lovely people you have in Customer Service.

Lower bake element burnt out

  • Customer: Frank Thompson from Universal City TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged appliance, removed two screws holding bake element, disconnected two electrical leads to element. Reinstalled bake element in reverse order. This is a very simple task and took less than ten minutes to repair.

Broiler had no heat

  • Customer: Donald from West Chester PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off the power. Loosened the screws holding the element in place to be sure they would come loose easily. Removed the screws from the ceiling bracket and then the screws holding the element to the back. Pulled the element out and brought the wires out 8 inches or so. Removed the wire clips from the old element and set the old element aside. Attached the wire clips to the new element and pushed the wires back into the oven compartment until the brackets touched the back wall. Started the screws in the back brackets and then started the screws in the ceiling bracket. (these were a little trickly to line up). Tightened all screws, turned on the power and checked that the new element worked which it did.

The upper oven broiler element shorted out and I saw flames!

  • Customer: Patricia from Grants Pass OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
First I read many of the stories on your sight. Then I decided "I am woman hear me roar!" I can DO this...Couldn't find the stubby screw driver, so I used a longer one.I also laid out the pliers, just in case. I unscrewed the four screws and pulled out the expired element. Had to finish breaking it to remove the bracket that held it in place. At first I thought I would have to call for help to pull the terminal wires off. I was afraid of damaging them, but a firm grip with just my fingers was all it took, no pliers needed. I used my I-phone flashlight to see to put the screws back in place. I made toast! It was yummy.

One section of the wire (in the harness) operated by the surface knob which triggers the spark was shorted to the gas manifold (under stove top pipe)

  • Customer: John from Salem NH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
You need to follow the instructions given at the website for changing the gas knob. But some additional tips should be included. First: Take off the two front oven doors. They add so much weight that it's very hard to move the range. Here's how: open the doors to 30 degrees and simply slide them up and out. Then the range is easy to move. Second, when you push the range back, the flexible gas supply pipe gets bunched up against the back wall preventing the range from going all the way back in against the wall. Here's what I did. I got a string and made the shape of a U with the gas hose at the bottom of the U and the tops of the U over the range top where I could grasp them. As I pushed the stove back, I pulled up on the string so that the gas line went up instead of in and bunching up. Since the string wasn't tied, there was no problem removing it by simply pulling on one of the ends.
All Instructions for the JDR8895AAS
211-225 of 300