Models > JDR8895AAS > Instructions

JDR8895AAS Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for JDR8895AAS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JDR8895AAS
1-15 of 285
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Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat

  • Customer: David from Westford MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 61 of 66 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

Upper broiler element (of upper over) burnt out

  • Customer: Todd from San Antonio TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 30 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
This particular model has a bracket that holds the element close to the oven ceiling, so I had to unscrew that as well as the element mounting screws on the back oven wall. The hardest part (not that hard) was the connectors were really tightly clamped to the element terminal. I had to use pliers to help wiggle them off the tips. Recommend doing this very gently yet firmly - I was worried about ruining the connectors or the wires to the oven. The element was deader than dead and actually fell apart in three places once it was detached. The new replacement element arrived a couple days later. Putting it in was a breeze, although the oven is quite dark and I needed Mrs. Handyman to hold a flashlight so I could get the screws in. Oven works fine now.

My God daughter baked a pie and the fruit dropped on the element and burnt it in two.

  • Customer: Vilita from Jacksonville FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 28 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
My husband turned off the breaker, removed two screws and install new element. I was baking again in no time.

Oven Door Inner Glass Broken

  • Customer: Shariq from West Conshohocken PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
This is fairly easy for anyone to do. First I opened up the front (silver part) of the oven door by removing the screws at the top and the bottom. Then I kept on removing the various layers of glass... the 2 outside ones are removed by removing their respective screws and then you get to the inner-most. These 2 inner ones are in a frame that holds them together. I removed the large silver frame that holds the insulation and the 2-glass-frame in it. Just remove the screws and then tilt the insulation frame out a bit to remove the glass frame. You can tilt the entire insulation holder out but the insulation is soft and it starts to fall off. Just tilting it enough worked for me. Then I opened up the glass frame from one end, removed the left-over broken piece of the old glass pane and installed the new one in. Then reassemble. The entire process is very easy - but you will need another person for a few minutes when you remove /reinstall the glass frame inside the insulation holder. You would just need a little help holding everything... nothing technical. I would rate the repair technicality at 4 or 5/10. It could even be a 3 if there were less steps involved. Good luck! By the way, Amana/Maytag wanted $70 or so for the glass and then the repair fee. I got the part here for about $50.

Right front ignitor switch not operating, possibly got wet when being cleaned.

  • Customer: Lou from Fort Pierce FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 20 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
The truth....This procedure will take 40 minutes total for the average "mechanic".

You will need a #2 phillips screwdriver and two open end wrenches, 1/2" and 5/8"

AFTER unplugging the power cord AND turning
OFF the gas feed:

1-Remove seven phillips head screws from largest rear panel, and remove panel.

2-Disconnect the gas feedline from the manifold with 5/8" open end wrench.

3-Unplug switch "set" ( 2 connectors, one inline and one spade)

4-Open top oven door and remove two hexhead/phillips screws from underside of stovetop, located on far right and far left forward corners.

5-Pull stovetop forward to unlatch from rear holddown clips on frame.

6-Lift stovetop up enough to disconnect five gas burner supply lines from control valves with 1/2" open end wrench.

7-Remove two phillips head manifold attaching screws from topside of control valves (visible after pulling off control valve knobs)...manifold is now free, remove from stove.

8-"Pop off" switches from control valves, and snap new set into place.

9-Install drip shield disks on control valve shafts.

10-Reverse procedure to reassemble stove.

NOTES:
1-Remember to install drip shield disks on control valve shafts before reattaching manifold to stovetop.

2-Check all visible screws for tightness now that the covers are removed, ....you WILL find loose screws...Avoid overtightening/stripping screw holes.

F1-1 code

  • Customer: charles from marstons mills MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

Lower Bake Oven Element not heating

  • Customer: Ian from Poquott NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Electrically tested the element for open circuit and found that it had blown. Bought new element and fitted same. Process is simple on this machine.This job can be done from inside the oven enclosure without having to move the unit away from the wall. SWITCH OFF ELECTRICAL SUPPLY TO MACHINE _ FIRST!Unscrew 4 screws holding plate against back wall of lower oven. Gently pull the element until you expose the the two flat 'spade' electrical connectors,use the pliers to disconnect the connections and then simply reverse the above procedure when re-installing the new element.However, I was a bit unlucky because this element replacement did not fix the original no heat problem. Looked at the electrical schematic drawing supplied with the oven and saw that the only other potential areas for investigation was the lower oven thermocouple and the rather expensive control module located in the upper part of the oven. The thermocouple was working because the temperature of the lower oven was registering and the upper bake element in the lower oven was getting hot. Made some phone calls to Maytag and they were no help at all. "We no longer give service advice over the phone because of potential legal issues". Found a local Maytag repair agent and after quotes that meant it would be just as cheap to buy a new oven, I elected to buy and replace the H3 Control Module. I ordered the unit . It arrived in 24 hours by standard mail. How to replace the module. Again switch off electrical supply to the oven at the breaker unit and pull oven away from wall to gain clear access to the rear of the appliance. Unscrew the top 4 screws holding the rear metal covers to the display unit on the top of the unit. Check that the module numbers are the same before proceeding. You will find that the shipped module does not come with the printed circuit board (PCB). This is OK, the PCB is mostly for the wiring connectors only. Pull the connectors quite firmly by hand, keeping pressure for support onto the back of the PCBU. The connectors are generally color-coded, or have unique slot allignments. You may find that the pcb is strapped with a plastic tie wrap. Cut the wrap first. Unscrew the two retaining screws holding the module assembly to the oven front face and remove the module from the oven. On the new unit, remove the clear plastic film from the display screen and reverse the above procedure to re-install. Keep the module because if this problem should manifest itself again. The module relays can be de-soldered and intechanged for future repairs.

Needed to replace oven door gasket.

  • Customer: Lori from Scottsdale AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 19 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
First removed the old gasket using a needle-nose pliers. Then placed new gasket by inserting the little clips on the gasket. Took 5 minutes. Great instructions from Repair Forum.

Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.

  • Customer: David from Arlington VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

spark igniter was weak and not lighting the flame.

  • Customer: Daniel from Needham MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Open top oven door and remove the 2 front screws which hold the burners and controls to the frame. DO NOT lift the burners more than an inch or so to look inside. You WILL bend the gas lines in the back if you do. Pull out stove from the wall, shut off gas supply and disconnect hose if needed to have room to work. Remove top back panel and remove the 3 wires connecting the top burner assembly and also remove the 2 gas lines. Now you will be able to remove the burner assembly safely. Flip it over and try to unscrew the screw holding the igniter. When you fail, drill it out and get a small metal screw to replace it. The metal is soft and the screw is hard, so drill carefully. The rest is easy, put in the new igniter and screw. and put it back together.

Oven rack lost in a garage fire

  • Customer: Bob from Saint Clair Shores MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
First I opened the door to the oven. Then I opened the box that the part came in. (knife) I then slid the oven rack out of the box and unwrapped the plastic, being careful not to bend or scratch the new rack. Now, this is the tricky part... I had to move the existing rack down one space to make room for the new one. Then carefully slid the new rack in, tipping it slightly and sliding it in. LOL

Burned terminal block and filter board

  • Customer: Joseph from Decatur GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 26 of 52 people found this instruction helpful
Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

Ignitor on main burner would not create a spark

  • Customer: Michael from Bloomington IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Having no manual nor finding any instructions online, I spent a while trying to figure out how to safely get to the ignitor mounting screw under the range top. I popped the snap clips on either side of the stove to loosen the top and pulled the top up a few inches to see why it was being difficult to raise. It turns out that the gas piping was solidly attached from the controls to the burners and I was slightly bending the tubes as the top was raised. The tubes have angles and curves to "accept" the bending pressure I was applying, so it looked like I was doing the right thing. In case I was not doing the right thing, however, I raised the top only enough to get access to the ignitor base and mounting screw. Then the fun began as the screw would not loosen. After several attempts using liquid wrench, tapping on it, etc., the screw head finally just broke off. Uh-ohhhh. Not to worry, however, as there was an empty mounting hole right next to the old one that appeared to be able to work. The mounting screw for the new ignitor was backordered, so I tried a couple dozen different screws I had in my toolkit and finally found one that would fit width-wise, but I had to nip off some of the length to get it to seat properly. The replacement ignitor also had a different width blade connector than the original so I had to grind away some of its width to reattach it to the lead wire. If I had a different sized blade receiver, I would have instead replaced the receiver on the end of the lead wire. It took about 90 minutes in all.

oven door inner glass pane broke

  • Customer: Kimberly from Ascutney VT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
removed oven door, removed screws from bottom and sided, door is in layers, removed door layers like taking apart a sanwhich layer by layer, once i got to the inner layer i just had to bend out the little tab on the frame,remove the broken pane and place in the new one, bend the tab back and then put the door back together layer by layer, it was very easy and saved me money, and frustration in dealing with a repair man from a well known company who tried to tell me I needed to replace the whole door as the glass was factory sealed in the door, WELL! this girl's hair may be blonde but not that blonde, I received the glass the very next day, and it took me 40 minutes tops to replace the glass, EASY! KC

defective oven sensor

  • Customer: sean from easthampton MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.
All Instructions for the JDR8895AAS
1-15 of 285