JDE3000W Jenn-Air Dryer - Instructions

Disconnect electric power, the top & cabinet are connected by 2 reusable locks about 4 inches from each front corner, use a thin flat putty knife or similar object, push inward on a lock while lifting gently on the front of the top piece, then let the top rest against the wall. ( a wire on each end of a safety switch for the dryer door may need disconnected) Remove a screw from each front corner of the cabinet, then pull upward on the loose front panel to access the drive motor, remove old belt. install new belt by lifting the front of the drum just high enough to allow the new belt, place groves of belt against the drum and around the motor pulley and belt tensioner, re-install cabinet front, (re-connect safety switch wires) return top and push down at cabinet locks.

It was really easy I watched your video on how to do it the video went step by step and was very helpful

I watched a part select youtube video on possible fixes for the problem I was having. Ten minutes and two videos later I had the part out and identified as the problem. I ordered the part ($42.00) which arrived four days later. Spent ten minutes replacing it in machine, turned dryer on and went right back to performing the way it has for the last 12 years. Easiest thing I did all day. Saved me $400 bucks too. Thank you.

Watch the video you sent me, and every thing fell into place

Took less than five minutes to fix a couple screws and take some wires off and pull it right out. Called local apliance store if they had part wanted more than partselect with next day shipping

What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

Replacing the lint filter was, of course, the easy part. The rest of the time was spent removing the front of the dryer and cleaning out all the lint that had escaped through the old broken filter. I completely took apart the lint traps inside the front, vacuumed everything out, and replaced the ductwork to the outside that was almost completely blocked with lint. Please take the time to inspect your dryer, and do this if necessary! I feel we prevented a house fire by getting to this in time - and I will be more vigilant in the future.

Pop off the top , Then one screw holds each side . slide belt around drum and then preload tensioner as per instructions . Simple!

took out the old, put in the new

I opened the lid and using the Nut driver removed the old High limit Thermostat.Then repalces the new one, replaced the lid and plugged in the dryer.It still did not start.I then found the fuse hiddden on the side of the heater element, testd the fuse on it was blown. I placed an order for the fuse.

I basically followed the instructions in the video provided. They were very clear and detailed. I love this website. This is the second repair on this dryer using PartSelect.com Runs like new and I saved a lot on labor costs.

I follow the instructions from the video sent to me with the email to tell me my new belt was shipped. Made the whole job go a easy as could be. Parts Select made fixing my dryer so simple and I also got the belt within 2 days. I recommend buying parts only from you! Glenn

by hand

I first had gone to the repair which told me there were only f few parts that could cause the loss of power including to the dryer light. They also showed how to test the units with an ohm meter. I then visited this site which also had how to videos for the actual removal and installation of the parts. I would like to have seen a step by step procedure for determining and testing to identify the defective part along with the video for replacement on this site. However, I did find this site most helpful and placed on order the part I needed. It arrived the very next day. And it took very little time to install. I had already removed the defective units. The dryer is again functioning . The actual cause of the failure od the defective unit was due to overheating because of a large amount of lent blocking the air glow at the blower unit. We clean the lent trap with every use. However this is not good enough. I think that the front panel needs to be opened at least yearly to properly clean the area in front of the blower unit. Hope this helps any of you other DYI people out there.

After I received the new belt I un-plugged the electric cord and shut off the gas supply. I pulled the dryer about 10 inches away from the wall to remove the vent duct from the back of the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the clips on bottom front panel and a screw driver to pop the front of the top at the left side and right side, removed the two Phillips head screws under the lint door, then lifted the top to the vertical position. Loosened the hex head screws at the bottom of the upper front panel (don't take them out). At the top back side of the front panel, pull off the electrical wires from the door interlock switch and pull the retainer holding the wires to the front panel (don't take the plastic clip from the wires.) Place some wood blocks to support the drum at the front of the drum. Use the nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside at the top of the front panel. Disconnect the two springs that hold the door closed. Lift the panel from the two loosened nuts at the bottom and pull it away from the drum and let the drum settle on the blocks of wood to support it. Place the new belt around the drum lining it up where the old belt left its mark around the drum with the grooved surface facing the drum. Replace the front upper panel with the door to engage to two tabs on the screws you left at the bottom. Lift the drum so that it engages with the opening in the front panel. In case where the drum had dropped too far, use the putty knife to engage the felt flange at the rear of the drum with the rear cabinet flange. Reinstall the two screws at the top that you had removed. Reconnect the two wires at the interlock switch and snap the clip with the wires to the flange of the upper front panel. Replace the door springs on the hinge extensions to the flange at the bottom of the cabinet. Set the Idler pulley assembly into the cabinet floor sliding the end tab into the slot and the two tabs fit into the holes in the floor. Pull a loop of the belt under the idler pulley and then pull it toward the motor pulley. You might use the shaft of your Phillips screw driver instead of you fingers to get it around the pulley on the motor shaft. Turn the drum by had for several complete turns to ensure that the belt lines up on the drum and that the drum isn't binding on the back or front seals. Close the top, snapping onto the top of the cabinet. Plug the dryer into the electric outlet and set the timer to Fluff Air range and push the start button with the door closed. The drum should be turning smoothly. Open the door and all should stop. Reconnect the Vent and move the dryer back to its former position. Turn gas supply on but do not start the dryer. Check for gas leaks. If you find a leak in either at connectors or the flexible connecter call a qualified contractor to replace the flex connecter. Otherwise you can then set for one of the dryer settings and push the start button and observe the burner through the lower panel to see that the igniter is lighting up and finally the gas turns on and a decent blue flam is burning in the combustion tube. Open the dryer door and the flame should cut off and the drum stop turning. You are ready to set the bottom panel. Set the panel on the two lower tabs and close it upward until the snaps lock it in position. Job Done