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Models > JDE2000A > Instructions

JDE2000A Jenn-Air Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for JDE2000A parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JDE2000A
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No heat on dry cycle. Thought it might be element.

  • Customer: Thomas from Battleboro, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Opened top of dryer and found high limit thermostat burned in half. Thermostat is located on top of element. Replacement of thermostat took less than 10 minutes, using phillips head screwdriver.

Dryer Not Heating

  • Customer: Timothy from Prairieville, LA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
This repair was so easy a sleeping Turtle could do it. You just remove the wiring from the old unit and remember which wire is on which terminal. Easily remove the old unit and replace it. Reattach the wires and you are done! Maytag is a very easy unit to work with. Just remember if you ever have to replace your Terminal Block, don't forget to order the brass nuts to attach the wires. Regular nuts will overheat and cause a fire hazard.

Other collector broke and was tearing clothing

  • Customer: Michael from Bloomington, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the top by popping the two fasteners holding it down. Did this with a screw driver. Took two screws out of the front holding collector in place and two screws out holding the front to the two other sides. Put front of dryer down on the floor. Removed old collector and used all other existing material from old collector to finish job. Wife could not believe how quick this was. Put back together was a snap too.

Change dryer belt

  • Customer: Scott from Bayport, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I popped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.

Dryer would not heat.

  • Customer: Deb from Milford, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the dryer and slid it a few inches out from the wall. I slid 2 putty knives in the front top about 3 inches in from the sides. Released the top and raised it up. I used a multimeter to test the hi limit and the element, both were operational. I used a screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. I lowered the panel slightly and disconnected the wires mentally noting the proper placement. With the front panel on the floor, the problem was obvious. I cleaned the lint clog under the lint screen that had caused the issue to begin with.I used a shop vac and cleaned the vent area as well as the front panel. I used a nut driver to remove the 2 screws that held the thermostat in place. The old thermostat fell apart in my hands. I covered the bare exposed wires with electrical tape. ( must have gotten HOT) and reattached the connections to the new thermostat, then replaced the 2 screws that held it secure. I stood the front panel back up and reattached the electrical connections and the 2 screws. I lowered the top and plugged it back into the outlet. I turned it on. It works like new.

Dryer not getting clothes dry in one cycle

  • Customer: Ray from Raphine, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Raise the top of the dryer. This exposed the elements in the back. Removed old elements,paying attention to where the wires go.
Installed new elements, hooked the wires up, and I was done.

Noisy and Ineffective Drying Cycle due to Damaged Blower Wheel

  • Customer: John from Webster City, IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
0. Opened packaged and receipt verified the parts against the drawing and packing slip.
1. Disconnected dryer from power source by pulling the plug.
2. Removed the two screws (philips) on left and right side of the main frame to allow access to the blower assembly.
3. (Optional)Verified power dead at the circuitry near the blower wheel assembly (former navy electrician- "check it dead").
4. Removed the two screws at the base of the wheel cover using the screw driver (philips). The other screws on the assembly cover required the use of a 1/4" nut driver.
5. Opened the assembly, and with a flathead, pried the Retaining Omega ring, and removed the damaged wheel (broken vanes and missing straight end of the center ring) and disposed.
6. Inserted the new wheel on the shaft and was able to manually do it until about 3/4 of the way; to get it fully insert it, tap it with a mallet (tap the center of the wheel and avoid the blades).
7. Insert the retaining ring and operationally test it by manually rotating the tumbler and verifying the blower wheel moves freely and without noises.
8. (Optional) Vacuumed the lint and dust from the wheel assembly, the filter and exhaust line (found several broken pieces of vanes there). Inspected heater assembly for obvious signs of damage
9. Re-installed the assembly cover and the main cover back to the frame
10. Reconnected the plug to outlet and tested by a starting a 10 minutes cycle- no noise and constant flow of air.
11. Smoked a Motecristo Churchill as I grilled the steaks and pondered the greatness of the free market.

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the drum was not turning because a broken belt

  • Customer: thomas from bloomfield, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I lifted the top of the dryer cabinet, like the hood of a car using a screwdriver to pry it open. I removed the two screws in the upper right corner of the cabinet front. I disconnected the safty switch on the front door. The front of the cabinet can then be removed by lifting up the front off the pins in the base. With the drum exposed you can place the belt on and thread it through the two pulleys on the motor. Consult the diagrams provided on the PartsSelect website for the proper positioning of the belt on the pulleys. After the belt is installed spin the drum by hand one turn to make sure that it is seated properly on the drum and pulleys. Reassemble the dryer in the reverve order.

Dryer went dead during a load and needed to replace the fuses.

  • Customer: Andy from Lawrenceville, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Very easy repair. Just needed to remove some screws to access the heating element area. The fuses are (1) just above the elements and (2) to the right side of them (if facing from the front). Alittle loosening with a philips screwdriver, removing blown fuses, replace with new fuses, tighten new fuses in place, replace outer screws and job done. Also made sure to fully clean lint collection area. I had a good amount stuck in there and it restricted air flow which caused the fuses to blow. It took 6 years worth of drying to make it happen.

Dryer stopped working in the middle of a cycle

  • Customer: justin from navarre, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First off, the parts were exactly what I needed and arrived at my front door in less than 48 hours.
The repair was quite easy. 1. access the "guts" by popping the two clipps and open top panel like a car hood.2. remove the high temp doohickie with a nut driver, one screw, two wires.3. Remove the heating element from its mount. 4. remove the high temp fuse doohickie, By popping off its wires and little retaining bracket. 5. do steps (in this order) 5-1 replacing new parts. 6. spend three hours looking for the dryer brush, you know you have somewhere, to clean 5 years of accumulated lint out of the lint trap.7. drive to Ace, by dryer brush. 8. (most important step) clean the lint trap, or be forced to repeat steps 1-5. 9. Pop a cold one and relish the peace and quiet, devoid of spousal nagging to fix the damn dryer. 10. Take down clothesline in backyard.

dryer was making a thump sound when drying clothes or when it came to a stop

  • Customer: andrea from west reading, PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
My husband and I used a screwdriver to pry open the top of the dryer, then unscrewed the two front corners of it from the inside. Next, we disconnected wires attached to front lid, then pulled the big barrel of the dryer away from the rest of it. We put a new drum roller wheel on the left side and greased the inside perimeter of it. Next, we took off the old cushion set, and stuck on the newer set, and greased drum glide as well. Lastly, we took off the "old" belt, and replaced it with the one we purchased from PartSelect. We forgot how the old one came off the pulley, but after much trial and error, we figured it out in a snap! (this is why this project took us longer than we expected)
In conclusion, this company for parts is wonderful and I have been referring them to all of my friends!

pull out lint screen holder broke

  • Customer: steve from madison, WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
used a flat blade screw driver to open top up(like a car hood) then removed two screws that held the front panel on. Two more screws held the lint colector part in place. The only problem that I had was that I had to use Elmers white glue to hold the gasket that ran around the lint colector in place.Just a little dab, not enough to soak it.When I took the part out there was about a volleyball's worth of lint in the fan blower. Ordered the part and 2 or three days later I had it. If I need another part I will be back...

No heat from element

  • Customer: Jason from Waukesha, WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the top cover, unplugged the wires on the element, removed bolt holding the element in place. Replacement took about Fifteen minutes to complete.

Maytag Performa squeaking loudly when running.

  • Customer: Jason from Temecula, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
My wife's dryer started squeaking very high pitched, intermittently and then continuously when running. It progressed to a loud shrieking, unbearable throughout the house. Make sure you unplug the dryer. First I replaced the Drum glide and cushion kit. This was easy to do. Pry open the top of the dryer open with a screwdrive or putty knife. Now reach in and remove the retaining screws holding the front panel against the side panels. After releasing the front panel, let it fall forward about 4 inches and then unplug the two wire connected to the door closed sensor. Now carefully slide the thin belt towards the back of the dryer, it will release eventually as it is pulled off the pulley (dont worry, getting it back on is not that hard). Now you can remove the drum. After removing the drum, there are two tan or bluse plastic drum glides that the fron of the drum rests on. They can be worn out along with the cushion beneath them. Replace them with new one. This actually did NOT fix the problem. I put everything back together and....SQUEAK!! Next I undid everything as before and removed the drum. Now I decided to lubricate the rear rollers. First I used a silicone lubricant that again did not fix the problem. I could not find hi-temp lubricant, so I decided to use Axle grease. Bingo...no more squeak. To lubricate the rollers, remove the retaining clip and pull the wheel off. I put an even thin coat on the post they rest on and the inside hole of the wheel. Replace them and remember to put the retaining clip back on. Now replace the belt onto the metal pulley first, with the threaded side of the belt down towards the drive shaft, it should loop around the drive shaft and then you can pull it around the drum, slowly feedingthe drum farther and pulling the belt back along the drom. The smooth side of the belt should be on top of the drum. Now you have to reach back under the drum on the bottom right corner below the lint trap and pull the belt over the tensioner. Sounds harder than it is. Volia...that should fix it. Its been 3 days of non-stop laundry since the repair and no squeak. Next time I will purchase the replacement roller package, but this worked for now. Good luck.

dryer did not run at all

  • Customer: Ronald from Jacksonville, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
removed heating element, thermostat, and then replaced fuse. sorry, the control thermostat was not the problem. it was the fuse kit that failed. the control thermostat would have been easier to replace.
All Instructions for the JDE2000A
16-30 of 602