JDE1000A Jenn-Air Dryer - Instructions

This was my first dryer repair. The only difficulty I had was figuring out how the belt tensioner was set up with the belt. The old belt broke so I didn't know how it was suppose to work. Anyway, it took a few minute to figure out that one end of the bracket was a "spring" that allowed it to flex a long ways! Pretty easy job.

Identified the rollers as the root cause of the drum not freely rotating. They also squeaked a little at the beginning of any cycle. I replaced the rear rollers and shafts using the parts from the roller replacement kit. Easy to do. The hardest parts was re-installing the belt.

looked up model on partselect and used the part by symptom section, chose the"will not start" symptom, based on that, the high limit kit seemed obvious, ordered part,received part in two days. watched repair video on this web site, followed the instructions, which were very clear, after unplugging the dryer, replaced both limit switches using nut driver, couldn't have been easier! I echo what other reviewers have said, you have customer for life! well thought out website providing excellent service to a person who wants to understand how things work and then fix it.

The video you had of my dryer was different then my dryer and the pulley was in the middle of the bottom and the motor and fan were in front of it. I had to replace the belt without being able to see what I was doing. I couldn't get it at first then realized there was tension on the pulley wheel and had to pull it towards the other wheel in order to get the belt on there. Once I pulled the wheel it went on really easy. My first time working on a dryer but I knew I could do it myself.

instructions were clear and repair was easy

Well, to Figure the issue I took the entire thing apart. Actually a lot more than needed. I found the torn belt and ordered it. I did not realize I may need a new belt tensioner which is sold with a wheel for the belt to wrap around and be tensioned by. Actually the original just utilized a rubber c or u shaped design(no wheel) for the belt to slide over. Anyways, instead of ordering and waiting for a new wheeled belt tensioner, I installed new belt with all original parts and working fine. I did oil up the drum rollers to reduce noise. And since I took the whole thing apart I cleaned the lint from every place it could hide. Ps a coke can is said to be helpful to hold the drum up while installing the belt but I found a jug of laundry detergent did better. Totally easy project for someone with no appliance repair history

The broken belt was found when I opened the dryer. The part number was on the belt and a quick online search led me to PartSelect. The part was available, delivered in less than 2 days and there was an online video showing the entire repair in detail.

I won't tell you how we did it, but I'll tell you the right way. Unplug. Remove the exhaust tubing attached to back of dryer. Pry the top up from the front and lean it against the wall. Un plug the wires attached to the front panel (remember where they go) Remove screws at top sides of front panel. "lift up" and remove. Close top. Lay machine on its back. We used a couple of 2x4's to lay it on so as not to crush the vest collar. Clean it out, including lint filter. The new belt wraps around the drum, you will see the channel about midway on drum. Feel behind the motor on the lower right side. There is a shaft with a channel for the belt. Immediately next to that is another pulley type arm with another channel for the belt. This arm moves stiffly and puts tension on the belt when installed correctly. Look at the diagram included with the new belt which shows the path of the belt. Wrap the belt, ridges against the drum and then around the motor shaft. At this point you have to physically pull the last arm out to allow the belt to wrap around the channel provided. If the belt is not twisted , the job is done. Turn the drum with your hands to make sure it is turning properly. Replace the front panel, plug in the electricals, replace the screws making sure the drum is properly centered. Stand up the dryer. Plug in and turn on dryer to make sure everything is right. Replace the exhaust tubing and set into place. Sounds like a lot of steps but I have described the whole process for you beginners. The rest of you will know already. Good Luck . Oh by the way we are 69 and 71. If we can do it, so can you

Found the heating element under top of dryer towards the back and replaced it

I watched the video several times to make sure I got it right. The first thing that was very helpful was how to disassemble the top cover and front panel using a putty knife to disengage the detents. With the cover off I could acccess the belt and idler pulley. Replacing the belt was fairly easy as long as you note the way it threads through the idler pulley and drive pulley. I thought the video was excellent. It took me right to the problem and the fix. As a bonus the price for the belt was much lower from Parts Supply then from Sears. I've recommended this site to several others.

I unclipped the top of the dryer for access to the heating coils. I unscrewed the bracket holding the high limit thermostat (the heating element was directly below the high limit thermostat). I removed one screw holding the heating element in place, and then removed the faulty heating element. I checked the old heating element and the old high limit thermostat with a multimeter to confirm that they were faulty - both the heating coil and the HL thermostat had continuity but the coils looked like they needed to be replaced (not rusty, but dingy). I installed the new heating element and the new HL thermostat, closed the top of the dryer and ran the dryer - it worked :) Thanks partselect.com!

I went with the majority and started with replacing the thermostat and thermal fuse. It fixed the problem, and all for about $30. The repair was easy, although you do have to do some finger gymnastics to get at the thermal fuse. Of course, I wanted to know why the fuse blew in the first place. I had cleaned the interior of the dryer out last year and I wasn't seeing much of a build up. I then removed all 20 feet of the dryer vent hose and cleaned it out with a kit (LintEatr, about $30)that attaches to your cordless drill. I pulled out a shopping bag full of lint. My clothes used to take up to 3 cycles to dry and now it is back to 1. Clean out your vent hose, people! P.S. There must be a reason for it, but it would be much easier if the fuse had a reset like other heating units do, instead of having to open the dryer up and replace parts.

Removed two screws at the top, removed two screws for the front panel, removed the broken belt, installed the new belt, followed the directions that were in the new belt package, and replaced all the panels and tested. It worked.

took the top and front off the dryer and had to route the new belt around the drum and through the pulleys, it was really easy and a heck of a lot cheaper then buying a new dryer

Called PartSelect, gave them the make and model number of the dryer and told them I needed a new belt for it. They gave me a price including shipment (under $20.00). I oreder the new belt and it arrived within a week. I also got an e-mail from PartSelect with a video showing how to replace the belt. This was very helpful. I was able to watch the video, take the dryer apart, replace the belt (after a few tries), and put the dryer back together. Problem solved! Thanks PartSelect.