JCD2389GEW Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.

My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this one. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)

Removed the Hex head small screw at the middle back of the Back wall of the fridge above the top shelf. Removed the 2 small Hex Head screws that go into the of the Plastic cover upwards into the top roof of the fridge.
I ended up with an extra screw so I dont know what I did...
The hard part is pushing up on the two tabs, one on each side in the extreme back on the bottom of that white plastic cover. You have to pull the coverwhile releasing the tab (locks) by pushing UP. The Right side was easier, I got that side to release and drop down. But the left side took some pressure on the tab with a fat screwdriver.
Then you have to kinda of Bend the cover to get it to slide out...

Then take out the 2 phillips screws above the light bulbs. the left side one is tricky, need long skinny driver.

Drop assembly down and on the back right is the ADP board. Mine was a bare board but the replacements are enclosed in white plastic that fit in place just fine.

Pry connector off of the board carefully and drop new plastic circuit board case in and replace.

Put a thermometer in a glass of water. unplug fridge for 10 minutes and then plug it in. Give it a few hours..
Everything seems fine.
A steady 39 degrees with the Fridge control at a few ticks right of middle.
I have no idea what it was before my troubles...
But 36 - 41 seems to be what you need.

Okay all you ladies out there, listen up. Yep, I am a girl and had never worked on a refrigerator before. I googled the model of frig and the problem. Finding that one of two things were probably wrong, I went to parts select and ordered both parts. Two days later they arrived. I replaced the coil and thermostat and waited one day -- the food side still did not cool down. I replaced the frost board and immediately the unit started to cool. I had called a repairman on Saturday and was told that they couldn't make an appointment until the following Friday because of a tremendous work load. I had the refrigerator running by Thursday, the day before anyone could even take a look at my refrigerator. Even though I spent $30 on a part I didn't need, I saved a bundle, the house call would of been more than $30.

I could see that a tab was broken from the round chute that opens for ice dispensing and closes to seal off freezer ice chute when not in use. With the tab broken, the round door would not shut to seal the freezer chute and dispensing water would spatter everywhere. I looked for just the round door part, but is only sold in the "Ice dispenser solenoid and door kit" I only had to use the round chute/flap from the kit. The instructions were easy to follow and I had the fridge back working in about 10 minutes. It took me longer to find the right star headed screwdriver that I needed to remove the Maytag star screws (5) total. Because I didn't have to replace the solenoid or the spring mechanism, this was especially easy, and now I have those parts on hand if one day I need them!!

I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

I replaced the actuator switch and rubber pad with the switch actuator.
I had attempted to repair previously without replacing the pad but the problem continued. I put up with the problem for a long time waiting for the opportunity to get to the appliance parts store but their hours are hard to deal with and work myself. I was able to find the part easily with the on-line catalog and parts diagram and ordering was no hassle at all. Shipping was extremely fast.
I remove the front panel by removing the drip tray and the 2 screws at the bottom. Then gently lift up on the front cover assembly (careful with the connector to the circuit board at the top) it slides over 2 screw heads at the top. Remove all the screws that secure the dispenser to the fridge, one screw is hidden on the right side (as you face the front. Work the dispenser out and careful of the water tube coming from the top - it stays in place. The wire connector must be unplugged from the left side in order to remove the assembly and not actuate the dispenser while working (a good idea to unplug the fridge). A small phillips screw holds the switch in place and the actuator fits over with the slots fitting over lugs on the assembly. Reinstall as you removed - be careful to be sure all wires go back into the proper location and "tracks" to keep them out of the way and avoid pinching (if the actuator will not go back flush in its location check the wires to the switch).
Plug all wires bach in and don't forget the harness to the top of the circuit board on the front panel.
Plug back in and check your work.
Important to replace the actuator pad - its "elasticity" is the return mechanism for the switch actuator. Probably the issue I had after replacing the switch and still suffering the same problem.
Good Luck!

Turn counter clockwise, following the remove arrow on the filter, until it stops. Wiggle and pull down on the filter until it comes off. Put date sticker on new filter to remember when it was replaced. Align the lines on the filter and push it up where the old one was and turn it clockwise until it stops, following the install arrow. Close the door and push both the light and lock button together to reset the replace filter light. Run the water through the door for a couple minutes to get all of the air out of the system. Very easy and quick. Most time spent flushing out the air.

Installed new ice maker. It was easy - loosen two screws and unplug old wire harness. Put new unit in place. Did not realize new unit would not come with wire harness, but transferred old one to new ice maker (easy) and, "voila" some ice in 24 hours -- much ice since then. I am a 68 year old woman and it was "sort of fun" doing this job.

The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.

Repair work was very easy. Water supply was to the icemaker/water dispenser. After removing the outer fiber cover with a screwdriver, the valve was removed by unscrewing one nut. Post removal water lines were removed with a ordinary pair of scissors approximately 1/2" from where it entered the faulty valve. the two electrical connections were then removed from the faulty valve. The water lines were then connected to the replacement water valve very easily by just inserting and applying a small amount of pressure. The electrical connections were then connected, replacement valve reattatched to the frame work (fit perfectly). After this I turned on the water and BINGO ice :) Post knowing the replacement valve worked I re-attached the fiber cover and pushed the refrigerator back in it respective location. Again this repair was very easy and the part arrived sooner than expected.

I didn't know what the plastic was - just that it was unappetizing. Reading other posts, it must have been the teflon coating. The refrigerator is 13 years old and reading other posts, I guess I'm lucky it lasted that long.

My boyfriend did the repair and here is his story:

The first ice maker we received was cracked on one corner. Not knowing how it got that way, I was concerned that there might be additional internal damage and that the unit wouldn’t work properly. Part Select was contacted and a replacement unit was sent with no difficulty.
As other reviewers have said, the replacement was quite easy, taking less than half an hour. The only tools I needed were a screwdriver and a nut driver. To begin, unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the ice maker. Loosen, but do not remove, the two top attachment screws. Then remove the bottom screw. Lift the unit up off the top screws and remove the water inlet hose at the top right. It’s probably a good idea to have a container handy to catch the small amount of water that comes out, but you’ll need a third hand for this.
The electrical wiring harness is very short and may be tricky to disconnect. On my refrigerator there is a round vinyl connector that plugs into a receptacle on the back wall of the freezer compartment directly behind the ice maker. This was removed with no difficulty (accidently, actually). Once the unit is out of the refrigerator you can remove the connector from the ice maker by using a screwdriver to depress the latch tab that is visible in a window in the unit housing. When installing the connector in the new unit make sure it is fully seated. Next, reconnect the round vinyl connector to the receptacle on the back wall of the freezer compartment. This was the worst part of the whole procedure. You have to support the unit close to the back of the freezer (due to the short harness) with one hand while inserting the connector with the other. This requires both arms in a confined space. The first time I did it I apparently didn’t get a good electrical connection on one end of the harness, and it didn’t work. Because the connectors are directly behind the ice maker I had to remove the unit and re-install it, but it was much quicker the second time, less than 10 minutes.
Once the connectors are in place put the water inlet hose into the opening at the top right. You may need to re-use the retaining clip from the old unit for this. Slide the two top mounting ears down between the screw heads and the back wall of the freezer compartment and tighten the screws. Then install the bottom screw. Plug in the refrigerator, turn on the water and make yourself a frosty beverage.
All in all, a relatively quick and painless procedure.

Another note - we kept saying "is there ice yet"? I think the metal bar that controls the ice maker needed to be raised and lowered a few times before it would work properly as it seemed to raise 1/2 way but the ice would not drop so I put it down and it worked its way up. Had to do it a couple of times over a 4 hour span but once going, it is working like a champ.

Removed back cover by removing 6 screws, vacuumed the dust out to make it less unpleasant and made sure I had the fridge far enough away from the wall to easily see. The kit was a little different from the relay that was in place - the old one on the compressor was encased in a small plastic carrier, and the replacement was two separate pieces, a short connector wire and a much bigger cover. I made sure the fridge was unplugged, then pulled off the wires (recorded what color went where) and pulled the relay with it's carrier from the compressor. I realized that the carrier was not to be reused, and pushed on the relay and the overload pieces, put on the provided white connector wire, connected the colored wires back to their new connections (orange wire now connects to white connector wire), and carefully snapped the new big cover over the wires and relay. Be careful with the wire routing - don't want to dislodge the connectors when putting on the cover. Remounted the back cover and plugged that puppy in - worked like a champ!

Well, off course, I started with the refrigerator UNPLUGGED :)
The hardest part of this repair was removing the plastic cover in the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment to get to the board. The screws all were easy to find (2 on either side of the temperature slide control; 2 on either side of the bulbs; and two in the underside of the compartment that houses the board in the far back right corner) and came out easily, however the 2 little plastic "tab locks" at the rear of the cover made things a little difficult. The right combination of pressure on the tabs and outward pulling of the cover took me quite a few tries to get right; but once the cover was off the rest of the repair was simple! The replacement part is a little different from the original in that it is now encased in a plastic housing, whereas the original was just a bare board. But it fit in perfectly - I snapped off the old wiring assembly and snapped in the new one, and we were off to the races. The cover proved to go back on a little easier than it had come off and in about 3 hours I heard the first piece of ice drop and the refrigerator compartment was down to 30 with the temperature setting set in the middle at 5. (I've sinced lowered it a little to bring the temp to about 36) - This was a really easy repair that saved me about $200; a break I really needed. And if you don't believe that it's easy and that you can do it yourself, this should really motivate you.................................. I AM A GIRL!!!! :) lol.
Good luck!!!

I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.