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The Bake-o-lite (Hard Plastic) block that holds the burners female connection in place had chipped away over time and wouldn't allow the male part of the burner to connect up correctly.
After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black electrical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes
1. Pull out range and unplug from socket. 2. Lift range lid. 3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily. (Note: Do not remove wires yet) 4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing 2 small tap screws 5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch. 6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old. 7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location. 8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one. 9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range. 10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch. 11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place. 12. Close lid, replace back panel 13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out. 14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.
Turn the breaker off to the oven.Removed both wire racks,using a 1/4 nut driver unscrewed the old element.The flashlight was so I could see inside the oven.Having removed the two screws ,the old element came right out.With my needle nose pliers removed the wires one at a time,replacing them on the new element as they came off.Replaced the two screws holding the element ,replace my wire rack, turned the breaker back on.As for the price for the part ,it was less than a service call from a repairman,which would not have included the part.
First I made sure the power was off then I removed the back cover. I took the new switch in hand and took one wire at a time from the old switch and put them on the new switch. I removed the old switch and replaced it with the new one. Made test to be sure it worked. Replaced back cover, job finished.
First I turned off the circut breaker. Then removed the two wire racks. Then I removed the two 1/4" hex head screws holding the rear of the element in place. Pulled the element out far enough to remove the two wires. Discarded the old element. Installed the new element in the reverse order and turned the breaker back on. Took no more than 10 minutes. Ordering the part was easy. The diragrams with measurements of the part made it easy to insure that I was getting the right part. I'm sure I save myself at least a $65 plus service call. Not to mention a mark up on the part itself. I will use this website in the future if needed. Thanks
1. Removed the back panel. 2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time. 3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range. 4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.
Turned off the power. Removed the screws holding the built-in oven to the wall. Slid out the oven. removed the four screws that were holding the inner oven walls to the outer oven walls. Slid the inner oven wall out 1/4", removed old gasket material and replaced with new gasket. Slid the inner oven in tight and replaced the screws.
Unpluged range. Removed back cover to access the infinite switches . removed old burner and drip pan. removed terminal block and retaining screw on cooktop. removed terminal block wiring from infinite switch taking care to mind were the wires came from. Install new terminal block and reattached to cooktop . installed new 8" burner and drip pan reinstalled back panel and plug in electrical to unit . tested burner . replaced stove after verifying burner worked
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
The Drip pans were unusable due to excessive use, and I decided to replace the Surface Elements as well.
There was nothing to it...I unplugged the Sufrace Elements from thier bases, removed the Drip Bowls, replaced the Drip Bowls and then plugged the Surface Elements back in to thier bases. The entire process could not have taken more than two minutes.
First I unplugged the stove, then lifted the stovetop, then took off the top panel on the back and disconnected the two wires. Then unscrewed the terminal block and put the new one in its place. Lowered the top inserted the eye and replaced the back panel. Works great!
This is the second time in a few months that I replaced this terminal block, so I made sure the contacts were clean and smooth. I also made sure the contacts were completely inserted in the block.
Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]