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Lower bake Element would not heat.
First I slid the stove out and unpluged it, then removed two screws,slid out element, disconected two wires, slid new element in to place, pluged two wires in ,put into place and installed two screws, pluged stove back in, and turned on to try. Works perfect.
1)Turn off power to stove 2)remove 2 bolts holding heating element 3)pull element out of the back of the oven about 8" so that the wire connects is visable 4)pull wire clips off of heating element and remove element from the oven 5)put wire clips on the new heating element 6)push new heating element back into the holes in the back of the oven 7)screw botls back into the oven holding the heating element in place 8)Turn power back on
unplugged unit pulled it away from wall took off the backplates traced wire to plug replaced with part ordered very smooth operation. the most impressive thing to me was i ordered part on computer and it was at my door in 30 hours awesome.
I removed the rear cover from the stove then removed the knob and two screws on the front panel that hold the control in place. I then took the wires off the old control one at a time and placed them on the new control. Then I placed the control in position and tightened the two screws on the front panel, replaced the knob and screwed the back panel in place.
when cooking on the 8" burner it would randomly go high heat.
first slide out range from wall and unplug it. then remove the rear panel, it is about 6 or 8 1/4" screws. remove the selector knob on the front of range and then remove the two philips head screws. this is how you remove the burner controller. hold the new controller next to the od one and one by one take the wires off the old one and put them on the new one. re-assemble and you are good to go.
The known problem: a short occured between the surface element and the INF switch. After replacing the wire between the surface element and INF switch. The surface indicator light remained on - indicating a power surge/spike. Prior to removing the old INF switch I disconnected the wires from the old switch one at a time and plugged each into the new switch terminals. Then I removed the knob from the front of the control panel and the 2 screws holding the old INF switch in place. Removed the old switch and replaced it with the new switch. Reinstalling the 2 screws and the knob. Surface indicator light was no longer illuminated and surface element works fine.
Removed screws using nut driver. Pulled element way forward until wires came through. Pondered how to detach burned out element from wires. Chickened out, call neighbor who grasped things firmly with two hands and pulled. Old element came loose. Popped in new element. Cursed the screws that wouldn't align with holes to support element; finally did it. Screwed element plate in place. Put oven door back on, plugged it in and turned it on hoping that we hadn't reversed the wires. Job accomplished.
My husband did it, we unplugged the stove first then he removed the damaged element replaced it with the new plugged it back in and we were in buisness. I like that this was an acutual part for my stove(not some universal thing) and it arrived very quickly.
my husband who is very handy took it a part, replaced the glass and put it back together - he did remove the door from the oven first and put it on the counter to work on it. I had the schematic picture of the door ready in case he needed it. He didn't really.
The electric burner on the stove top would no longer heat up, when we removed it we noticed that the element was completely burned. I mean fryed!
First, I got my husband and let him know that the part was in (really easy), then I sat back and watched as he pulled the oven from the wall, unplugged it and lifted the stove top (so far, I haven't broken a sweat)! I then peeped up under the top as he removed a scew from the element and then several screws from the back panel, trace the wire to the needed element, and reconnect the new element (haven't broken a nail yet)! He then secured the element back on its mount, let down the top and plugged the oven back in, checked for accuracy...mission accomplished! This was the easiest repair I've ever done!
After turning the power off to the range, it was as simple as removing the screws for the broiler itself and the bracket and plugging in the new element. Yes, it was that easy.
Originally the burner had a hole burnt through it, which resulted in a hole being burnt through the bottom of a pan. I replaced the burner and it would not heat up. I removed the top control panel, after securing power to the stove outlet, turned the power back on checked both sides of the swith with a meter (with the switch on) and had no power on one side. I went to two stores that did not have the switch in stock and ended up ordering from this site at about half the price! It arrived a couple of days later. I marked the wire colors on the old switch, took off the knob, removed two phillips head screws, pulled out the old switch and installed the new one and I was back in business. The hardest part was getting the sheet metal / heat gaurd positioned right upon re-assembly. To remove the panel there are two screws in the rear (nut driver) and a screw on either side of the front under each corner that require a torx driver to remove.
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.