JAS014J4 General Electric Range - Instructions

First of all I want to thank PartSelect. I have been looking for these parts for over 15 years. I am so happy to have found PartSelect. 1. Turn off Range 2. Turn off Breaker to the Range at your home Breaker Box. 3. Turn on Range to see if you turned off the right Breaker if so then turn Range off. 4. Lift Burner Element up. 5. Take off Silver Trim Ring and Drip Bowl. 6. With screw driver unscrew the screw that is holding the Burner Element to the Range. It is located at the base of the hing where the Burner Element attaches to the Range. 7. Pull the Burner Element out just far enough to see the entire Element where the wires attach. 8. Snap off the two silver clips from each side of the White Glass Insulation Block with a screw driver. 9. With an adjustable wrench (crescent) loosen and remove the screws holding one of the wires to the Burner Element. 10. Find the same Terminal on the new Burner Element and reattach the wire to the new Burner Element Terminal. 11. Now do the same to the remaining Terminal. 12. Install the White Glass Insulation Block over the two Terminals and secure with the two silver clips. 13. Reattach Burner Element to Range with screw. 14. Replace Silver Trim Ring and Drip Bowl. 15. Turn on Breaker and test by turning on Range. You will smell a slight electrical burn smell for a moment while the new Elements heat for the first time. This will dissipate quickly. NOTE: I used the old White Glass Insulation Block I did not use the one that came with the new Burner Element. I found the old one to be the better choice. I saved the new one in case needed at a later date. The Job to replace both the 6" & 8" Burner Elements took less than 30 Minutes. I think it took longer to write this replacement instruction. LOL Very easy...Thanks again PartSelect. Charles McAllen, Texas

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

We took out the philips screws on the right and left side of inside of the oven and two hex head screws on the clip on the top of the oven in the front. Then using a slot screw driver pryed the oven liner out enough to remove old gasket and replace the new gasket. We did see in some online directions that we were suppose to remove entire oven from cabinet and loosen bolts in the back. But, we were able to get enough space to get the old gasket out and new one installed. We did use a 1/4" thick piece of wood on face of oven to prevent any denting of oven when prying out the liner of the oven.

unscrew hinge support screw w/nutdriver, remove ceramic insulator held on with clips around wires and base of burner, remove screws holding wires to element w/nutdriver, replaced screws on new element w/nutdriver, replaced ceramic insulator held together w/ clips, reattach hinge, replace burner lower overflow bowl and trim ring, fire it up. used pliers to hold the wires and burner element together when tightening screw so as to not bend element.

Took oven door off. Removed screws that were holding oven insert. Pulled out oven insert. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket. Push oven insert back. Installed screws. Replaced oven door.

this repair is simple. Just unscrew the existing connection and attach the new heating element. You may have to break the existing ceramic element, but a new one comes with the new heat element.

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

Removed single screw securing the old tilt-up burner. Removed clips on sides of clamshell ceramic terminal block with flat blade screwdriver to expose two wire connections. Removed 2 screws connecting the wires to the bad heating element. Did not use the supplied new ceramic terminal block, just reused old one. Connected new burner to wires with 2 screws. Reassembled terminal block with clips. Fastened clip with single screw to attach new unit to side of opening in range top. Tested. Done.

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

Son-in-law unscrewed oven compartment; broken gasket was easy enough to remove and new gasket easy to replace; only problem was oven door would not shut tight. Tried shoving gasket harder into groove, tried turning on oven and heating new gasket to see if it would soften. Finally got it to close by pushing hard on left side of oven and inside light would at least go off and stay off.

Replace part an wires

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.

Moved into a house built in 1976 about 7 years ago that came with an old but nice looking GE electric stove.
Stove worked well until about a year ago when the switch for the 8" element became erratic. Having been raised where DIYS was SOP I didn't even consider calling for help instead, armed with the stove model number, I went to the internet (How on earth did I ever survive before internet?) and found this site where I quickly found the exploded view of my stove, IDed the switch, ordered and received it within a day or so. Fantastic turn around time!

Now I've never ever worked on an electric stove so I was quite methodical in my approach.

First I read the instructions (you know, when all else fails…) that came with the new switch, then I pulled the stove out, unplugged it and removed the tin back that covers the switches. I drew a diagram of the old switch orientation and which wires attached to what. Then I disconnected the wires, removed the knob and the two screws hiding behind it that hold the switch to the stove.

Oops, the new switch was not identical to the old!!

First: I noticed was that the stem for the knob was longer BUT they proved break off notches so that it can be shortened.
Second: the stem on the old switch was a half round while the new stem was square. I tried the 'half round' knob on the square stem and it went on firmly. Nothing ventured nothing gained.
Third: the terminal orientation did not match. So armed with my diagram and the instructions I made sure I knew which terminal was which (they are labeled). Once assured I knew what went where (I made notes) I installed the new switch and attached the wires (following my notes).

Being an optimist I reinstalled the tin back, plugged the stove in and pushed it back into position before (with my legs, arms and fingers crossed) I tested the switch (which was not easy considering the position I was in). Lo and behold, no puff of smoke and…ta-da…everything worked as it should.

All in all, upon receiving the switch the whole thing took less than 30 minutes.

Recent.

Less than two weeks ago one of the 6" elements fell apart, still worked but lost the supports that rest on the trim ring. Back to the internet to ordered a new element and new trim rings (just for the cosmetics). Again great service, I think I received my order the second day.

Along with the element they also supply new screws plus the spring clips which hold the ceramic insulator together. There's only two wires to contend with so its easy to determine which is the left wire and which is the right. The old terminal screws were locked in pretty good so I used pliers to hold the terminal while loosening them. There's very little slack in the wires so it was a tad awkward reattaching them to the new element.
I did notice that the threaded hole on the new element seemed to be slightly larger than the old. I noticed this when I used the old screws, one would tighten, the other did not so I replaced with the screws they supplied (Duh!). Well I do have an excuse, the new screws were longer which I feared would prevent the insulator from 'closing'.
I probably spent the most time attaching the insulator. I found I needed to fiddle with position of the terminals before the two halves of the insulator would meet. I splayed the wires out slightly then cocked the wire ends slightly so that the wires would neatly leave the side of the insulator. I also adjusted the terminals and the bendable wire part on the element so that they were parallel to each other.

ANYBODY can do this

I removed the screw holding the tilt mechanism to the range top. Removed the clips holding the block together. Disconnected the two power leads on the old burner and replaced with the new burner. Closed the block around the leads. Screwed the tilt mechanism back to the range top and that was it!