J66RP1BG General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

1) Turn Power off at Circuit Breaker
2) Lift Cooktop out of counter top.
3) Remove all dials from controls by pulling straight up.
4) Remover glass plate which covers burners by removing
screws along outer edge.
5) Remove the two top screws from the control to be
replaced (this holds the infinite control to bracket)
6) Remove one wire at a time from the old control and
plug on the new one in correct orientation.
7) Reverse above order to reassemble.

(Note: Not all infinite controls are same PN when
ordering, the drawingings are deceiving that they are)

1. Removed brackets holding the cooktop in place.
2. Removed the cooktop.
3. Removed the screws holding the housing for the elements.
4. Removed bad element.
5 Connected new element.
6. Reassemble

You have to replace the switch if the shaft breaks (I think we hit it with a pot). This is a flat glass cook top. Turn off the power at the breaker box. I took the drawers out below the cook top and loosened the bracket holding the electrical conduit. That allowed me to push up the cook top from below. There is some adhesive but nothing hold it except its own weight and the adhesive. You do not need to disconnect the conduit. Remove all of the knobs. Remove all of the Phillips screws around the upper perimeter. Do not remove any of the hex screws yet. When all of the screws are removed, lift the glass cook top off of the metal "guts." At this point there will only be adhesive holding it on. Now remove two hex screws at each end of the control strip. Remove the two Phillips screws from the subject switch. Lift up the the control strip, disconnect the electric leads to the switch, reconnect the leads to the new switch, and then re-attach the new switch to the control strip with the two Phillips screws. Then go backwards. Replace the control strip and secure with the two hex screws at each end. Before replacing the cook top, check the burners. They rest on posts with small springs designed to keep them flush with the glass cook top. Make sure that all of the burners are properly aligned on their posts and springs. Replace the cook top and re-attach with all of the Phillips screws. Return the cook top to its resting place making sure the adhesive strips are correctly placed around the perimeter. Replace the bracket on the conduit. Put the knobs back on. Flip the breaker back on and start cooking.

Pulled unit from the counter top, removed all side screws holding the top on and set the top off. Removed switch mount section, Identified the terminal wire locations. I then removed the old switch and connected the wires per my diagram. Returned all screws, tested the burner for opeation and reset the cooktop back into the counter hole and secured.

using the info on this site i guessed it was the switch. It was. this is a Radiant Heat in counter drop on cook top. i was nervous about getting it out of the counter but that was eassy, just sits on top. the One issue was diconnecting the BX electric cable from the elecric box. mine did not have threads and a nut. but a push in fitting with small tabs.. i forced it out by pushing the tabs in with a screw driver.. later found out it was a band that was eassily removable by just prying it open with a screw driver... and later replacing it.. the glas removal was just screws and the switch was insised a cover with four screws.. plugged the new one in (careful to keep the connections the same, and reversed the process.. ready to fix it again if needed!thanks for having the part... probably saved $200! can take less than 30 minutes if you get past the electric connection quicker than i did... that;s it!

Removed counter top stove, released zip ties on flex conduit,removed cover glass, removed switch anchor panel, removed old switch,(noting the color of each wire) replaced switch reassembled.

Turned off power to cooktop. Disconnected power wires and removed cooktop from counter. Removed screws holding on the cooktop surface. Separated cooktop surface from cooktop. Removed 4 screws holding control panel, then removed 2 screws holding selector switch. Removed 2 wires plugged into selector switch. Installed new selector switch and reassembled cooktop.

1) SHUT OFF POWER
2) Removed the cooktop from the counter
3)Remove 6 screws holding the cooktop glass frame to the housing
4)Removed 4 screws holding the switch retainer to the housing
5)Removed 2 screws holding the switch in place
6)Moved one wire at a time from the old switch to the new switch
7)Reassembled

First removed the back of range, then the metal vent section that prevented the range top from lifting up. There are 2 screws accessable only after you open the oven door that need to be removed before you can lift up the glass top. Then remove the bracket holding the 2 front heating elements. Made a diagram of all wires going to and from the large 2 element heater. I had to use an adjustable wrench to remove the 2 studs that were screwed into the sheetmetal section of the element. Carefull not to let the springs or retaining washers get lost.
I examined the inner and outter heating element windings and discovered that the old and new unit was not wired the same. Additionally the instructions were not very clear as to what color wire they said to cut and why. I could not install the studs in the exact locations as the original unit since trhe new one had a slightly different terminal block location. This resulted in the new unit being rotated about 20 degrees CCW looking from under the top. The wire going to the LED heating indicator was now too short so I used the wire supplied with the new unit to extend this.

I used a multi-meter to verify the coil terminal locations and made sure the colored wires went to the same terminals as the original assembly. (Inner coil, outter coil and common terminal) The instructions supplied did not show the same terminal locations as the unit itself for these 3 terminals. Other terminals, which were simply junction points, were the same as the original unit.



By using an ohm meter and the diagram of the colored wires made before taking off any wires one should be able to do this repair. But it was not easy. Ckeck all wires 3 times before turning on power.

Our glass electric cooktop is more than 15 years old, but it works like a champ. The problem is that the knobs have become almost unreadable. We considered buying a replacement unit for hundreds of dollars, but first I checked PartSelect.com and found the knobs! I ordered them, they came, I removed the old ones and put on the new ones. No tools needed and the cook top looks like new! You saved the day! Thanks!

GE changed the design a little, moving a connector so the existing wires didn't reach. I texted the model number to an address provided with the part, and GE returned a URL for installation instructions. The instructions said there should be two jumpers to extend the wires, but there was only one, so I had to make a trip to the hardware store to get connectors to make my own jumper. Read the instructions carefully for where to connect the wires. My initial connection was wrong, but nothing bad happened, just the unit didn't heat. Two mounting tabs from the old unit need to be moved to the new. Heat shrink tubing is provided to cover the joints where the jumpers connect to the old wiring. If the jumper hadn't been missing, it would have been a quick, easy install.

When I ordered, nobody (19 different web sites) had the part in stock. GE took over 2 months to ship the part to PartSelect, but finally the stove is fully functional again.

turn off breaker, two screws hold down cooktop, 8 screws take top off cooktop. unplug switch, install new switch. repair loose connections. put back together. pretty simple

Removed unit from counter top. Opened to locate wiring diagram. Identified part snd searched on internet. PartSelect.com provided all missing information and had easy to follow instructions...confirming my initial assessment of the problem. Ordering was easy; delivery fast. Job completed.

Turn off breaker.
Lift cook top from counter.
Remove perimeter screws from glass cook top and remove glass.
Remove screws attaching control.
Replace control and leads.
Note: 4 of 5 lead attachment marking points matched old control - I had to guess the fifth. "P" on old was attached to "PC" on new. Attachment points on new were configured differently from old. The leads were just barely long enough to reach.
Replaced perimeter screws and cooktop.

Remove ten screws that attach top then remove top. Remove four screws holding switches in place and lift for access. remove two screws from switch. Record wire color for positions P L1 L2 for proper positioning on replacement switch. One wire was to short so had to make a two inch extension to complete the hookup. Reassemble and the burners work as original.