Models > HTW4300TQ0 Maytag > Instructions

HTW4300TQ0 Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for HTW4300TQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the HTW4300TQ0
31-45 of 548
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

no cold water, Just hot

  • Customer: Jerry from Camarillo CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I first removed the top panel,disconnected all the wire clips(four)and then removed the back panel
which is held in plsce by two bolts on the bottom and one plastic clip.After that i removed the solnoid
wires after marking them (hot and cold) the removed the hose clamp then removed the valve it self.Attached the new valve reconnected the hose and re attached the panels and now it works great.

unbalanced load...knocking sound.

  • Customer: Edward from Easthampton MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Unbalanced load was creating a knocking sound (as if the clothes load was unbalanced). Dismantled the washer to find that one brackets had rusted out. [FYI: 3 bracket at 120 degree apart (for the 360 degree circle)]. I found that the hole (on the bracket) where the spring holds was gone. Purchased parts. Replaced them (spring, bracket, screw). Reassembled washer then ran wash for a cycle. Successful fix.

Washer lid switch worked sometime, sometime not

  • Customer: Jill from Alexandria LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First, I'm so excited that this site exists because I knew that the problem was minor and I didn't want to pay the outrageous housecall price of a repairman. I read other customers' experiences on how they fixed the problem and that made it sooo easy! Basically unscrewed the screws on the far left and right on the top panel, folded it down toward front, unscrewed and unplugged the ground wire and replaced the part. Someone else had warned that the lid should be open to remove it and that was a huge time-saver. Thanks so much! The part was broken because of very poor design. The part actually worked fine, but the piece of thin plastic that held the part in place broke. Back to the drawing board Whirlpool.

machine was out of balance

  • Customer: RUSSELL from SOUTHOLD NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the washing machine from the wall and found a broken spring on the floor. Began disassembling the unit before accessing your sight. (Later I viewed your video of the more simple dis assembly).Used your parts breakdown to identify the 6 parts I needed (3 springs and 3 retainers),and ordered them. They arrived on time and as per the video, installed them with ease and reassembled the unit. My wife is very happy. Thank you, Rusty

would not spin properly even with new coupling

  • Customer: david from o AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Removed capscrew in end of agitator shaft took cover off machine-[ unscrewed two screws holding down control panel, hinged back, pryed retaining clips out, rocked back machine cover.]
Removed motor mounting clips and pump hoses, swinging motor and pump out of the way. Removed 3 capscrews holding transmission, pulled transmission towards me removing agitator shaft, disassembled clutch assembly - removing one cirlip then another, installed new clucth parts in same order

Slipping Spin clutch due to leaking gear-case seal.

  • Customer: Thomas from Pascoag RI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
1. Unplug the machine.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outlet drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.

tub off center, rubbing on outer tub in spin

  • Customer: Charles from Rose Bud AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
turned the washer on it's back and shoved the tub to the side to release pressure on a spring ,pulled it loose and installed new one. this worked for the back two then turned washer on it;s face and repeted the process on the front spring.
Washer works great now.

Found cracked brake shoe

  • Customer: Michael from Trafalgar IN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 12 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the main bolts that hold the gearbox in place, pull the gearbox and shaft out. You will see the brake shoes and drum--the large spring is a struggle to replace. Getting it out was not hard. The biggest struggle I had was replacing the brake shoe spring after replacing the shoes. I ultimately compressed the spring in a vise, then used safety wired it, then placed it between the shoes, then cut the wire to relaease the spring.

Wash machine, wouldn't spin dry the close. The pump still worked to drain the water.

  • Customer: Matthew from Albany MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug power from wall.
Disconnected water lines
Tip Unit on it's side. (Recommend turning so motor is to the top side)
Disconnect Electrical connector and Hoses from the pump and motor.
Disconnect metal straps used to retain the motor to the transmission. (screwdriver to pry)
Remove old coupling pieces from transmission/motor(used a long screw driver, rock back and forth)
used air compressor to clean up electric motor
replace new coupling on motor and transmisison (may need hammer to tap into place)
set rubber bushing on transmission side (transmission shaft should be facing up at this point)
replace electric motor into place, making sure to line up bushing and motor mounts.
replace metal strap connectors between transmission / motor (this can be tricky, as the one in the back is hard to get at.)
replace electrical connectors and hoses
connect washing machine power and water and test

Top section of the agitator would not work properly

  • Customer: James from Crownsville MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the top cap, unbolted the agitator, lifted off the top section, removed old "dogs" and replaced new "dogs", reinstalled agitator and tested.

I bought a used washer from a friend and they had cut the drain hose short .

  • Customer: Francis from Yuba City CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I got a pair of channel lock pliers and took off clamp on the hose, after laying wash machine on it's side, poped off a few little clips and replaced the hose, and now everything works perfect.

The support sprint had broke which left the basin unleveled so water would leak behind the basin and onto the floor

  • Customer: Michael from Newark DE
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 16 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the broken support spring and the problem was fixed

timer was bad

  • Customer: Truman from round lake beach IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
i took out my timer an called your place an you responed within two days of the time i placed the order an it fit right back in an the repklacement part was very good my waser is up an running because of your quick reponse i am very pleased with your service it was very good i will use you for any other of my repairs that i can get from you thank you truman r davis

Hot water would not stop running into machine when machine is off.

  • Customer: Jon from Lafayette IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug machine then removed two screws from the back of the control panel so that the panel could be removed from the top of enclosure. I then removed the two spring clips that fastens the enclosure to the back panel of machine. Stand in front of machine and tilt enclosure back towards you, this opens up the machine to get access to the inlet valve. Remove all electrical wires and the water hose at the bottom of the valve. There was only one bolt that attached the valve to the back panel; remove it and replace water inlet valve.

WILL NOT SPIN

  • Customer: Daniel from Temple TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
THIS IS A RELATIVELY NEW WASHER AND FAILED EARLY. MY PREVIOUS WHIRLPOOL WASHER LASTED 20 YEARS WITHOUT ANY REPAIRS.
1. FIRST INQUIRED ABOUT THE SPIN PROBLEM IN PARTSELECT. MACHINE WILL NOT SPING UNLESS MANUALY FORCED THEN IT WILL TAKE OFF BUT WEAK.
2.PARTSELECT SUGGESTED A CLUTCH PROBLEM. ORDERED THE PART THAT CAME FAST. WHEN I TRIED REMOVING THE SHAFT HUB WITH A HAMMER AND CHISEL IT WILL NOT GET LOOSE SO I OPTED ORDERING THE SPECIAL WRENCH TO LOOSEN THE TUB HUB.
3.I PUT THE MACHINE ON ITS BACK AND LOOSENED THE PUMP RETAINING CLIPS. DO NOT REMOVE THE HOSES FROM THE PUMP. MOVE THE PUMP AWAY FROM THE MOTOR SHAFT. REMOVE THE MOTOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR AND SET ASIDE.
4.REMOVE THE THREE BOLTS HOLDING THE GEARBOX-MOTOR ASSEMPLY AND PULL IT OUT OF THE TUB.
5.PUT THE ASSEMBLY ON A TOWELWITH SHAFT UP AND REMOVE THE SEPARATOR WASHER FROM THE OLD CLUTCH THAT IS SITTING ON THE GEARBOX. THEN REMOVE THE C-RETAINING CLIP FROM THE SHAFT.
6.PRY OUT THE WIRE RETAINING CLIP FROM THE CLUTCH AND PULL THE OLD CLUTCH OUT OF THE SHAFT.
7.THE CLUTCH KIT I ORDERED CAME WITH A PLASTIC BRAKE TO CLUTCH CAM SO I REPLACED IT TOO, JUST REMOVE THE RETAINIG CLIP FROM THE BRAKE THAT IS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE TUB AND REPLACED THE PART.
8.INSTALLED THE NEW CLUTCH AND THE RETAINING CLIPS IN REVERSE ORDER. REPLACE ALL PARTS THAT CAME WITH THE KIT. THE NEW CLUTCH SPRING WAS ALREADY IN PLACE.
9.PUT THE ASSEMBLY BACK INTO THE TUB AND RE-INSTALL ALL THE OTHER ITEMS IN THE SAME ORDER. IT SPINS GOOD NOW!
10.WHILE REPLACING PARTS, METHODICALLY CLEAN ALL THE LINT FROM THE MOTOR AND FROM UNDER THE MACHINE. THE GEARBOX SHOWED SIGNS OF LEAKING OIL SO ITS A QUESTION OF COST. I LEFT IT THERE UNTIL IT FAILS THEN I'LL BUY A NEW MACHINE.
All Instructions for the HTW4300TQ0
31-45 of 548