HTW4300TQ0 Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

Tipped the washer on its side and took the pump off then the motor then the coupling.

I purchased the part from PartSelect because it was very reasonable and it was OEM part. I have never replaced this kind of part on a washer so I figured it would take me a while. But PartSelect supplied a video showing the entire repair and that was the only reason I did not struggle with the repair. I will definitely buy any appliance parts I need in the future from PartSelect. Thanks Don

slipped up upper locking collar lifted off cover and removed 7/16 bolt that holds agitator in place. lifted out agitator and installed agitator repair kit. 123 simple. also next day delivery outstanding keep up good work

Disconnected power. Disconnected hot and cold, and drain hoses and placed in a plastic bucket. Pulled cover off the washer. Tilted washer onto its back. Removed 2 clips holding the pump. Disconnected wire harness from motor and removed 2 clips holding motor starting with lower clip. Removed a screw from the upper clip used for shipping. Set motor aside and removed broken pieces of the motor coupler from motor and transmission. The replacement part had a metal sleeve in the center of each white plastic ring. The old part did not. This required tapping the new ring onto both the motor and transmission shafts with a socket and makes for a tight fit. Reversed the process to put everything back together. Some alignment might be necessary to place motor to transmission. I recomment wearing thin work gloves to avoid nicks from sharp edges. I didn't. Washer is spinning again and sounds a lot better.

Watch the video on the part ordering webpage.

The hardest part was understanding how to take the cabinet apart. The "exploded" parts diagrams at PartSelect helped immensely.

followed the video on the web site and repair was amazingly easy. I have two of these machines, and this same part went bad about 1 1/2 year ago, so this time i was ready for everything. Took everything apart, got rid of old broken part, replaced with new, and Bam, washer back up and running, less than 30 minutes, I am limited on space in my basement, so i didn't turn machine on its back, i did it in the upright position, just utilized some wood blocks to hold the motor during part change, and a hand spring clamp to hold pump and hoses out of my way after removing the clips that hold it on. It's not rocket science, if i can do it so can you. Good luck

First, unplug the unit. Remove the two screws on each side of the control panel on the back. They are located at the top corners of the unit. The base is held on by clips you press in on from the bottom. You will have to reach in over the tub and press in on clips, one each on the far side. At the left, you will be able to feel the lid switch, the clip is just to the left of the switch. It is about ½ inch wide, press firmly with your thumb. You may want to wear glove for this unless you like battle scars. Once done the control panel should hinge up. The switch is on the left side. To remove the switch, I first detached the wire harness to the control panel and unscrewed the grounding wire. Open the lid and the switch pulls right out. The new switch drops right in. Attach the wire harness and grounding wire. Place the control panel back side first at an angle making sure the back metal panel is lined up, once in place it should snap back in place when pressed down firmly. You might have to reach in over the tub again and pull the clip down (keep Band-Aids on hand). Plug the unit back in and you are good to go. Raise and close the lid, you should here the switch click on and off.

Followed written instructions after viewing repair video. Would have been helpful to know how far onto shaft each drive piece needed to be placed. I should have noted old piece placement, though if this was noted in instructions it would have been reassuring to know what is the proper placement. I also placed machine on its back to align the motor and transmission after new parts were installed on each.

I researched the troubleshooting on PartSelect.com and determined the clutch was going out on my direct drive Whirlpool washer. I ordered the part, found the instructional video that actually had my exact washer being worked on, I followed all of the steps of replacing the clutch and in a snap, my washer was spinning. I've worked in apartment maintenance for years and PartsSelect.com has always been my only resource for appliance parts and repairs. The prices are great (I've compared most parts websites and 8 times out of 10, partsselect.com is cheapest), the shipping is extremely fast and the parts are alway right. Great site!!!!

The repair was easy and the video tutorial was great. That was the easy part. I also had to replace the drain pan and getting it in and out of the pan is no easy task. Plus when you have not moved the washer in 10 years there is some cleaning to do. I would not hesitate to do it myself again. It cost me $20 and some sweat equity.

I watched the video to get a good idea of the procedure. I followed the instructions to remove the cabinet but kept the washer upright on its base. I left the water feed hoses attached to the wall spigots, but turned them off. The pump was rusted onto the motor shaft so I left it there. I unhooked the pump hoses from the pump so I could remove the pump and motor as a unit. The plastic coupling ends pulled off the motor and gearbox shafts easily. The new coupling ends have metal inserts which are a tight fit on the gearbox and motor shafts. To maintain the original alignment it's important to drive them fully into place. I greased the shafts then tapped the coupling ends on with a hammer and drift. The drift was a metal tube, inside diameter slightly larger than the shafts, but small enough to bear on the metal inserts, not on the plastic. My diagnosis was wrong - the original coupling was in good condition, but the clutch had failed.

Unplugged washer, took out screws that held on the dial panel, lifted dial panel, disconnected the ground wire, released the clip, lifted the lid which released the switch. Installed new switch closed the lid which holds it in place set the clip connected ground wire reattached dial panel secured it with the screws, plugged the washer back in and I was on my way the conquer that pile of laundry that had built up.

I watched a Part Select video on replacing the augitator and just followed the directions to replace the thrust washer (which was showing wear) and the washer. The instructions that came with the thrust washer were helpful as well.

First, I moved the washer with water in it from the wall. Then, I removed two screws with a phillip head screwdriver from the back cover to the controls. Then I used a little bitty wrench to remove two small bolts that also held the back cover of the controls to the rest of the washer. The control panel was all attached, so it had to lay forward on the washer to remove the broken lid switch and then to install the new lid switch. There was one screw that I removed with a phillip head screwdriver. I removed the broken part and placed the new part into the hole. Then I had to move the control panel with limited space to lift the lid of the washer; the part would not fit property without lifting the lid. Once it fit into place, I closed the lid and replaced the screws and bolts. It worked beautifully. Thank you for your online help and the remarks from other people who had previously fix this lid switch.