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Models > HLD4040M15SA > Instructions

HLD4040M15SA Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for HLD4040M15SA parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the HLD4040M15SA
16-30 of 268
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Dishwasher was not filling with water or cycling.

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Punta Gorda, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 31 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
In order to access the fill valve, dishwasher had to be removed from under countertop. Disconnected water supply line and drain hose under sink. Unplugged unit and removed 2 screws holding unit to countertop. I was then able to pull unit out and replace valve. After reinstallation, the same problem existed. Further research pointed to the control module, approx. $100.00 or the motor, approx. $250.00 - $300.00. I than began looking at new dishwashers, but I did email GE with the problem. They suggested I use citric acid or vinegar in hot water, pour into right rear portion of tub and wait 1/2 hour. After doing that, the dishwasher worked perfectly.

would not start

  • Customer: MICHAEL from ORLEANS, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 29 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the 6 screws that hold the inside cover on the door.Then I remover the plastic cover over the switches,pulled out the switches and disconnected the 2 wires from each switch and connected connected them to the new switches exactly as they were on the old switches.Then reinstalled the switches in their holders.I then removed the plunger and spring from between the switches and installed the new spring and plunger exactly like the old one was installed.I reinstalled the door cover making sure everything was in it's place,I put the screws in the door cover and I was done.It was a very simple job. Mike

Dishwasher did not fill.

  • Customer: Ron from Salida, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 23 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
Traced the problem back to the water valve. turned off the water. Disconnected the water inlet and outlet lines. removed the 2 mounting screws and unplugged the terminals.

DW would not drain

  • Customer: william from sykesville, MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 21 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Dishwasher would not drain. I confirmed it was the drain pump by starting the DW and pressing reset 10 sec. later. When functioning properly, pump will engage and drain the DW. In my case, nothing except a blinking light for 30 sec. I turned off power at circuit breaker, remove base plate (no need to pull dishwasher), disconnected pump from hose (DW side) and caught water, disconnected hanger hook from DW (requires a little twisting), disconnected on house drain side, marked two sets of wires (1,2), removed wires by shoving nail into coupler (otherwise hard to disconnect), and removed pump. Repeat in reverse order to connect new pump.

Noise, Poor cleaning

  • Customer: Vern from Orem, UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Turned power off, removed dishwasher, tipped on side, removed and installed pump asym, reinstalled

Diswasher won't drain.

  • Customer: Fergus from Sacramento, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
First, I pulled out the drain hose under my sink that connected the dishwasher to the disposal and overflow valve. I drained all the water out of the dishwasher and ran it to see if it would drain. It did not. So I drained the water out again and then pushed the hose back in the hole it came through from the dishwasher. My water for the dishwasher is hooked up under my sink as well so I pushed the excess length of hose through the same hole to give me enough play to get the dishwasher out. Other people may need to disconnect the water first, but regardless, turn off the water at source under the sink.
After concluding that the drain pump was running at the end of the wash cycle (I could hear a slight buzzing sound), I figured that the timer was working as it was telling the pump to run and determined that the pump was not working properly.
I unscrewed the screws that held my kick plate on below the dishwasher door. Turned off power. Took a digital pic of the wiring so I could refer to it when putting back in. Unhooked 3 wires that supplied power.
Then I unscrewed the screws that held my dishwasher under the countertop (2 small screws).
I gently pulled out the dishwasher until it was free of the space it was in under the counter. I put two 3ft 2x4's on the kitchen floor with a few towels under to soak up the extra water that was unable to drain ealier. I turned the dishwasher on its side so that the bottom was now visible.
I then took a digital pic of the broken drain pump all hooked up so I could refer to it when putting the replacement in. After removing the two wires hooked up to the pump and loosening both sides of the pump from the drain and drain hose, I removed the broken pump.
From that point, I installed the new pump and tightened both ends securely, hooked up the wires, picked up the dishwasher on it's bottom, hooked up the three wires for power supply and gently put dishwasher back under counter. I had to pull the drain hose gently and water hose so they would not kink behind the dishwasher. I hooked up the drain hose to the disposal and overflow valve, turned on the water and the power and ran a test cycle. Good to go!

plastic hinge arm link broke causing door to flop open

  • Customer: Margaret from Meridian, MS
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...

Door handle actuator was broken.

  • Customer: Stephen from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 16 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the screws on the inside of the door assembly, which allows the inside of the door to seperate from the outside. The escuchen (control panel) was easy to remove - the handle actuator is inside the control panel. The handle assembly was easy to take apart and re-assemble with the new handle and spring. I then inserted the control panel back into the outside door and reattached all of the screws with a power drill. This was a repair that a GE-authorized service tech told me was going to be over $540 - he claimed the control panel and door handle/actuator was a single assembly. In the end this repair cost me $14 in parts and 15 minutes of time. I complained to GE Consumer Affairs and they rebated the tech house call back to me in 5 business days.

Actuator was broken

  • Customer: Sally from Saint George, UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
When I first tried to fix the handle I could not figure out where the spring went. I went back online and looked at the diagram of the dishwasher on this site and learned where it went. Once I knew where every piece went it only took me about 5 minutes to put it back in and another 5 minutes to screw the cover back on. I am a newer homeowner and want to be able to do minor fixes. This was my first one and was very happy that I was able to do it on my own.

Replacement of soap dispenser

  • Customer: Bryan from Gilbert, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the broken/cracked soap and Jet Dry dispenser (i.e. MODULE RINSE AND CAP ASM - part #PS1481889). (Water was leaking into the soap holder and hardening the soap into a lump before the door would open, rendering the soad useless).

Steps:

1) Unplugged the dishwasher.
2) Unscrewed the 6 screws holding the front stainless steel panel to the plastic door; set aside panel and insulation.
3) Unplugged two wires from small electric motor in broken ASM.
4) Unscrewed 6 screws holding ASM in place; easily slid out of door.
5) Slid in replacement ASM and put 6 screws back in (tightened snugly to make slightly warped door bend to new ASM).
6) Plug back in two wires into new ASM.
7) Re-attached stainless steel cover to door (having a 2nd person hold this in place while screwing would've helped).

All done - works like a charm! No more dirty dishes because the soap didn't work right...

Bottom line: If you have a phillips head screwdriver, you can do this repair. Easy to do.

Soap dispenser latch broke - never worked right

  • Customer: Steve from Lincoln, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
This was a piece of cake. The original soap dispenser never worked right and always left unused soap. The new part was easy to install and works great. Only needed a 1/4" nut driver and philips screw driver to pull the outside panel and replace the module rinse and cap assy. Easy!

door seal was never installed when machine was manufactured

  • Customer: John from Lakeport, AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
removed two bottom screws on inside door panel and slid seal onto spline, reinstalled screws. Job done

Growling/vibration noise during the wash cycle.

  • Customer: Walter from Maple Grove, MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Hint on determining if the Main Conduit is the cause. Place a tapered flat piece of wood (wooden spatula) between the Main Conduit and rear of the dishwasher wall and remove any excess play.
Run the wash cycle and determine if the noise goes away or is reduced.

Removal and Replacement of the Main Conduit Assembly:
Opened the Dishwasher door and removed the lower and upper basket.
The upper basket required the two rubber gourmets on the front of the rail to be removed by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver between the top of white farthest tab towards the rear of the dishwasher of the rack slide end cap (PS2370502 – Item 652) and twist the screwdriver while gently pushing the top of the tab towards the rear of the dishwasher and gently pulling on the end cap (The rear tab needs to clear the upper rack slide).
Repeat this process on the other upper rack slide and remove the upper rack assembly.

Using a ¼ inch socket driver, remove the Main Conduit (PS651676 Item 585) screw located in the back of the Dishwasher wall and the screw from the upper spray arm (PS260547 Item 570) located on the roof of the unit.
Remover the lower Spray arm by gently pulling up and turning it counter clockwise.
Remove the fine filter hub nut (PS259078 item 454 ) by turning it counter clockwise and the fine filter (PS259068 item 452) The fine filter has a small tube going into the bottom of the dishwasher base that should be removed at the same time of the filter. Be sure to position it correctly when it is reassembled.
There is also a small stainless washer in the bottom of the fine filter housing. Take care not to loose it during the assembly and disassebly process

Remove the Main Conduit from the plastic assembly in the drain of the dishwasher by turning it counter clockwise. (Note, the new Main Conduit Assembly comes with this part pre assembled). Remove the same plastic piece from the new Main Conduit assembly by carefully lifting the clip on it.
Install the new piece back in the drain and tighten just prior to being pointed toward the back of the dishwasher.
Reassemble the Main Conduit to the drain piece and tighten it the remainder of the way and reassemble all parts in the reverse order they were removed.

Replace valve

  • Customer: James from Hartsel, CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrew supply tube and angle nut from old valve. Disconnect tube from valve. Install new valve. Obtain new crimp seal for water supply tube. Use Teflon tape. Reconnect water tube to valve.

water inlet valve leaked

  • Customer: William from Westminster, MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I cut the water off to the DW, unscrewed the water connection to the inlet valve, unplugged the electric connection, disconnected the black rubber line from the valve to the washer, removed the 2 screws holding the valve in place. Put the new valve on by doing the above backwards. I also used white thread tape on any connections that needed it.
All Instructions for the HLD4040M15SA
16-30 of 268