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HDA3500N10BB Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for HDA3500N10BB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the HDA3500N10BB
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My dishwasher stills works perfect, but most of the upright prongs on my upper dish rack had broken and fallen off. I couldn't see buying another dishwasher so I entered my model # on the Part Select Website. I was easy, and three days later the new one was delivered to my doorstep.

  • Customer: Thomas from Spring TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the rack was a "no-brainer". I simply removed the plastic keepers on the ends of the roller racks with a screw driver, pulled the old one out, slid the new one in, and then replaced the keepers with pliers. It couldn't have been easier.

Water leak during pump out from drain flapper valve shaft seal.

  • Customer: Russell from Kinston NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Saved a bundle over the cost of a new dishwasher. by ultimately replacing the entire motor/pump assembly with one ordered from PartSelect.com And a bonus was a much quieter operating dishwasher!!

Here's what I did:

First tried replacing leaking drain valve shaft seal.
Removed entire motor pump assembly. Replaced seal. Still leaked (although less) because drain valve shaft was worn (corroded.)

Next ordered the entire motor/pump replacement assembly. The parts arrived in 2-1/2 days. (Should have replaced entire pump assembly to start with - all of the same labor to replace just the drain valve shaft seal.)

Anyways, instructions were very clear and well illustrated. This replacement took less time than to do the drain valve shaft seal.

Very simple repair:
1) Shut off water supply, electric power
2) remove front bottom insulated dishwasher cabinet cover grills.
3) disconnect drain hose and catch water in shallow dish.
4) disconnect water supply at solenoid valve.
5)disconnect electrical inside junction box and remove cable from dishwasher.
6) remove two under counter screws to top of tub
7) slide dishwasher out from under cabinets.
8) place soft carpet to cushion left side of dishwasher to avoid potential damage to water inlet to tub..
9) lay dishwasher onto left side. (Not right side, as jet dry reservoir wiill drain empty all over floor.)
10) unfasten motor support rod, power connector, and drain solenoid power connector.
11) unfasten motor ground wire.
undo pump inlet and outlet boot clamps.
12) remove old motor/pump assembly.
13) prepare new motor/pump assembly drain hose adapter stub reducer diameter to pump drain outlet. (tighten two hose clamps provided/)
14) place new motor/pump assembly into inlet and outlet boots.
15) fasten inlet and outlet boot clamps firmly tight.
16) install new, longer motor support rod (front)
17) install motor ground wire and new, fine thread grounding screw,
18) connect motor power to new power pigtail and plug new pigtail into motor power connection,
19) install wire wrap tie threaded through the support rod to front frame hole and support motor power wires/
20) install wire wrap tie through drain valve solenoid metal support holes and loop around solenoid power wires to support them.
21) tilt dishwasher upright and slide back under counter cabinets. Guid power and water supply lines to right under side of pump motor, and drain hose to left side.
22) reattach drain hose to new motor/pump drain stub reduce adapter, tighten hose clamp.
23) support drain hose with wire wrap tie looped over frame on left side.
24) reattach water supply to inlet water solenoid valve and tighten firmly.
25) redo electrical power supply connections to dishwasher hot, neutral, and ground (120VAC).
26) check level of dishwasher tub and adjust front and rear leveling legs on left and right sides. BE SURE LEVEL, OR WATER MAY SPILL OUT TUB WATER INLET OPENING DURING OPERATION.
27) remove inside tub drain trap screen (two screws) , and pull out sump baffle. Check for and remove clear any foreign objects inside tjhe sump.
28) replace sump baffle (flat baffel towards fromt. and tub drain screen cover.
29) Turn on water supply and electirc power supply.
30) Test wash a load of dishes and check for leakage.
31) reinstall fromt lower insulated cover grills.

Wow, the new motor/pump assembly operates very quietly compared to the old one - this is a pleasant and unexpected bonus.

No problems encountered.

Total time was about 2.5 hours to do all of above.

Parts were old and worn out

  • Customer: Dave from Littleton CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was easy. A couple turns of a screwdriver was all that was necessary to remove the rollers and slide assembly. The I simple installed the new rollers. Slid the slide into place between the rollers and then added the back caps to the slide. Replaced the rack rollers on the top basket and then slid it into position between the new slides. Once in place, I attached the end caps to the front of the slide. Simple and quick.

plastic hinge arm link broke causing door to flop open

  • Customer: Margaret from Meridian MS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...

Water was leaking form around drain valve shaft.

  • Customer: Barry from Knoxville TN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I called the repair guy, and he told me I'd have to replace the motor/pump assembly. He said he could do it for around $250 to $300. I logged onto this website for a look and saw the seal available. After reading the other responses, I figured with a seal and the cheap push-nut (that sometimes gets mangled upon removal), it would be worth a try.
I pulled the dishwasher partly out from under the cabinet; disconnected the front support mount, the drain hose, and the two water boots; dropped the motor/pump assembly; removed the solenoid; removed the e-clip, push-nut, shaft, and old seal; and then reinstalled everything. The hardest part of the repair was the tight working conditions. I wonder how many people pay hundreds of dollars because of this $15 part.

leak at shaft seal

  • Customer: DAVID from ADAMS MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
The shaft pulled out of the housing when I tried to get the push nut off. I had to take the pump housing out in order to get the shaft lined up with the valve when reassembling. In the end, the shaft had so much slop that no seal could keep it from leaking. Time for a new dishwasher.

Dishwasher solenoid overheated

  • Customer: Matt from Summerfield NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
If you are replacing an overheated solenoid that had the plastic melt, don't forgot to order a armature and link as well. I made this mistake and had to wait another week to fix the dishwasher. The repair wasn't too bad. The most time consuming part was putting the E-clip retainer ring back on the diverter shaft. Tipping the dishwasher back some really helped for me to have more room to see and work with.

racks had rusted but dishwasher still worked perfectly

  • Customer: Harold from The Colony TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
bottom rack was easy as just pull out and replace. Upper rack had to move front part of the brackets to pull out rack which did require some figuring out but I did finally get it and once I figured out one side the other was easy.

tub corner baffles were falling apart

  • Customer: ROBERT from GLOBE AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the D/W door, used needle nose pliers to remove the old baffles. They come right out. I cleaned the area using paper towels and installed the new baffles. They just sit in the corners with nothing holding them. Simple job.

Dishwasher rack was rusting and partially broken

  • Customer: John C from Indianapolis IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
The repair only required me to lift out the old unit and set the new rack into the dishwasher. I was pleased that there was nothing to put together. The rollers were already attached.
It took longer to open the shipping box than to do the installation.

Water leak at drain valve shaft

  • Customer: Randolph from Orlando FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Before ordering the parts I read the posts by other do it yourselfers and found them very helpful. I ordered the seal and shaft nut from Parts Select and was impressed the parts were delivered in a couple of days. I removed the two lower panels from the dishwasher to expose the leak and the shaft. I turned off the electricity at the circuit breaker box and disconnected the wiring harness to expose the area I would work on. After cleaning the water deposits from the shaft I pried off the small lock washer and removed the plastic cam from the selenoid. Next step required removal of the push on nut. This was the most difficult part of the entire procedure. It required a bit of gentle but firm pulling with pliers and a couple of screwdrivers, sacrificing the nut in the process. It was better ordering a new one originally then trying to save the old one. Having experiencing these nuts in previous work, I knew a new nut would be a cheap fix! Once off, the old seal is easy to remove. Place the new seal on the shaft as per the included instructions, place the new push on nut and reassemble as originally taken apart. (I used a socket set to push on the push on nut.) I then ran a load of dishes to make sure there was no leak before reinstalling the lower panels. I had no leak but pay close attention to placing the seal and push on nut. The seal must be in the exact place.

Changed from white to black panels

  • Customer: Betty from Port Jervis NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I received panels about week after I ordered them, however the large panel came scratched. I immediately called your customer service who was extremely helpful and considerate. She ordered me a replacement and it arrived the very next day..

Excellent service, I was truly impressed.

After twelve years the prongs on the top rack began to break and rust.

  • Customer: Jim from Wichita Falls TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered a replacement from partselect.com and received it in just three days. The only difficult part was deciding how to remove the white plastic end caps on the sliding rails. Finally, I took a small screwdrive and pried out the crimps in the metal, pulled the old caps out, inserted the new ones, and squeezed the metal together again using needle-nosed pliers. Nothing to it!
Note: The configuration of the new rack isn't exactly like the original (size and placement of the prongs differ somewhat) but it fits perfectly and works great.

Old roller wheels were starting to stick due to cracking

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Springfield VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
1. I pulled off the plastic end caps to the top rack that allows the roller wheels to be pulled out of the aluminum rails. You need to push in the raised edge of the plastic caps so they clear the rail slot in order to remove them. This takes a little bit of finger pressure or you can use a flat-edge screw driver to pop them out.
2. Once this procedure is completed, you simply remove the rack and rollers from both rails and remove the old roller wheels and replace them with the new ones.
3. I used a phillips-head screw driver to tighten up the rail wheels before re-installing the top rack into the rails and then re-inserted the end caps. Pliers are handy to help get the end caps back into the rail slots.
4. I finally used a silcon spray on all of the rolling parts of the top tray assembly for lubrication.

Dishwasher would not drain. Used air to confirm drain hose was clear. Traced problem to Drain Solenoid

  • Customer: chris from Albany OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
After determining the drainage issue was caused by the solenoid, (by process of elimination; the hose was clear, drain opening clear, diverter moving freely, power to solenoid present during rinse cycle= bad solenoid. Solenoid showed signs of overheating upon internal inspection...) I transfered the bracket assembly to the new solenoid, re-attached bracket to diverter reservoir, connected spring and power and Did a test run. Solenoid works great! I did notice the shaft on which the diverter pivots leaking just a bit while moving the shaft. You might consider oredering a new gasket for it if you plan to replace the solenoid. Pretty easy repair. Especially considering the complexity of some other possible problems! Good luck!
All Instructions for the HDA3500N10BB
31-45 of 512