Models > HDA3500N10BB > Instructions

HDA3500N10BB Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for HDA3500N10BB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the HDA3500N10BB
31-45 of 485
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Parts were old and worn out

  • Customer: Dave from Littleton CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was easy. A couple turns of a screwdriver was all that was necessary to remove the rollers and slide assembly. The I simple installed the new rollers. Slid the slide into place between the rollers and then added the back caps to the slide. Replaced the rack rollers on the top basket and then slid it into position between the new slides. Once in place, I attached the end caps to the front of the slide. Simple and quick.

tub corner baffles were falling apart

  • Customer: ROBERT from GLOBE AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the D/W door, used needle nose pliers to remove the old baffles. They come right out. I cleaned the area using paper towels and installed the new baffles. They just sit in the corners with nothing holding them. Simple job.

Changed from white to black panels

  • Customer: Betty from Port Jervis NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I received panels about week after I ordered them, however the large panel came scratched. I immediately called your customer service who was extremely helpful and considerate. She ordered me a replacement and it arrived the very next day..

Excellent service, I was truly impressed.

Water leak at drain valve shaft

  • Customer: Randolph from Orlando FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Before ordering the parts I read the posts by other do it yourselfers and found them very helpful. I ordered the seal and shaft nut from Parts Select and was impressed the parts were delivered in a couple of days. I removed the two lower panels from the dishwasher to expose the leak and the shaft. I turned off the electricity at the circuit breaker box and disconnected the wiring harness to expose the area I would work on. After cleaning the water deposits from the shaft I pried off the small lock washer and removed the plastic cam from the selenoid. Next step required removal of the push on nut. This was the most difficult part of the entire procedure. It required a bit of gentle but firm pulling with pliers and a couple of screwdrivers, sacrificing the nut in the process. It was better ordering a new one originally then trying to save the old one. Having experiencing these nuts in previous work, I knew a new nut would be a cheap fix! Once off, the old seal is easy to remove. Place the new seal on the shaft as per the included instructions, place the new push on nut and reassemble as originally taken apart. (I used a socket set to push on the push on nut.) I then ran a load of dishes to make sure there was no leak before reinstalling the lower panels. I had no leak but pay close attention to placing the seal and push on nut. The seal must be in the exact place.

plastic hinge arm link broke causing door to flop open

  • Customer: Margaret from Meridian MS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...

Dishwasher solenoid overheated

  • Customer: Matt from Summerfield NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
If you are replacing an overheated solenoid that had the plastic melt, don't forgot to order a armature and link as well. I made this mistake and had to wait another week to fix the dishwasher. The repair wasn't too bad. The most time consuming part was putting the E-clip retainer ring back on the diverter shaft. Tipping the dishwasher back some really helped for me to have more room to see and work with.

Dishwasher rack was rusting and partially broken

  • Customer: John C from Indianapolis IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The repair only required me to lift out the old unit and set the new rack into the dishwasher. I was pleased that there was nothing to put together. The rollers were already attached.
It took longer to open the shipping box than to do the installation.

The seal for the drain valve was leaking.

  • Customer: mary from orlando FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the front bottom panels to give me access to the Solenoid area. I did not take out the dishwasher from the cabinetry. I removed the screws holding the solenoid assembly and the C clip holding the hand fan shaped white nylon thing onto the valve shaft. I slipped these to the side. Then I cut through and removed the push on nut with a wire snipper plier. Then I used a knife blade tip to pick out the black seal. I then slipped the new seal onto the shaft, being careful that the flat side was outward, and slid it down the shaft and , with my fingernail, pushed it completely flush into position. The biggest challenge was the push on nut. It does not push on easily and must have the lips pointed outward. It required the use of a 3/8" diamater tube slipped over the shaft to tap the nut down the shaft. This caused the shaft to push into the pump housing, which caused the valve to bind. So I used a vice grip to pull out on and hold the shaft while I tapped the push on nut with a flat head screwdriver. Then I just reversed the solenoid assembly removal. But , when I ran the dishwasher, it no longer leaked.

One of my top rack rollers had broken and the rack could not hold any weight

  • Customer: Louis from Fairfield CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I simply detatched the broken old roller and snapped in the new one. It was very simple and I did not need any tools.

WATER LEAK IN RUBBER CONNECTOR PIN HOLE AT SEAM

  • Customer: Allan from Stony Point NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Shut of water to the built in dishwasher and shot of electric breaker , removed the water line and removed electric hookup at washer. Removed the drain pipe connected to the garbage disposal unit for more darin pipe room when pulling the appliance out from under the counter. Pull out the appliance, and carefully layed it flat on the back. Loosed the 2 connector clamps with a srewdriver from the upper and lower rubber connectors and the small drain rubber connector, used a plier. Loosed the screw on wire hold down pulled the housing pump out of the rubber connectors and used a wire hanger to help support the dangling Housing pump unit. Unscrewed the damanged rubber connector using a washcloth for a better grip., rescrewed in the new rubber connector. (
HINT- used petrolem vasaline on the rubber connector base for a water tight fit) . reconnected all , replaced elctric and water line, reconnected the darin pipe to the garabage disposal. turned water back on.

All worked at well.

Very, very easy. Took about 5 minutes. The end cap was on and working. And the repair company would charge $65 just to come out and look at it. It costs $9.00 to fix it. I am moving on to the refrigerator next. Very satisfied. Shipping is well worth the money. Ray D, Ansonia, CT

  • Customer: Raymond from ansonia CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Old cap was already off and had string on it. Cut the string. Placed end cap over. Used needle nose pliers to open metal rail a little and put in new cap. Locked right in. That was easy. Thanks again.

Roller front shafts broken

  • Customer: EUGENE C from WICHITA KS
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Rack fits perfectly. The problem was removing the old Rail End Caps and then re-installing them. The are plastic and nealy impossible to remove. Finally after much coaxing was able to get them out. Howver, putting them back on was impossible. The long guide that nests inside the Rail could not be made to slide in so the latching hook could go into the rectangular hole. The hook prevented the long guide part from staying in the Rail on the upper end. Tried bending the long guide and it got it to nearly work, but the guide broke. It did not come completely off so left on and just pushed up after hook was put in hole. Doesn't seem to hinder operation. There was a plastic "tower" piece that must be for some other model. The Rack has a place for the Tower, but it wasn't part of the original Rack.

Old roller wheels were starting to stick due to cracking

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Springfield VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
1. I pulled off the plastic end caps to the top rack that allows the roller wheels to be pulled out of the aluminum rails. You need to push in the raised edge of the plastic caps so they clear the rail slot in order to remove them. This takes a little bit of finger pressure or you can use a flat-edge screw driver to pop them out.
2. Once this procedure is completed, you simply remove the rack and rollers from both rails and remove the old roller wheels and replace them with the new ones.
3. I used a phillips-head screw driver to tighten up the rail wheels before re-installing the top rack into the rails and then re-inserted the end caps. Pliers are handy to help get the end caps back into the rail slots.
4. I finally used a silcon spray on all of the rolling parts of the top tray assembly for lubrication.

After twelve years the prongs on the top rack began to break and rust.

  • Customer: Jim from Wichita Falls TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered a replacement from partselect.com and received it in just three days. The only difficult part was deciding how to remove the white plastic end caps on the sliding rails. Finally, I took a small screwdrive and pried out the crimps in the metal, pulled the old caps out, inserted the new ones, and squeezed the metal together again using needle-nosed pliers. Nothing to it!
Note: The configuration of the new rack isn't exactly like the original (size and placement of the prongs differ somewhat) but it fits perfectly and works great.

Water leak, small puddle to front left of dishwasher

  • Customer: Greg from Burlington VT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
You'll need to remove the front toe kick and (if installed, the GE Profile baffling for additional silencing action).

You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.

You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.

Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.

Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!

Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)
All Instructions for the HDA3500N10BB
31-45 of 485